how about this one?Please cut some stuff and report back on how that combination works, and how the saw handles and feels with the short, stout bar on it.
I’m thinking the short bar would offset some of the boxy, bulky configuration of the powerhead...but does it balance well? Does the hard nose act as a power-sucker? Never used a hard nose bar
before, I don’t think.
I just turned the front of the muffler into swiss cheese with a 1/4" bit. A number of small holes increases flow but does not make it obnoxious and crackly like a large exit hole does. Some people say it is redneck but for a $20 saw it works well. There are pics in the 5020 thread.What did you do for the muffler mod?
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Would this work on a 4218?I just turned the front of the muffler into swiss cheese with a 1/4" bit. A number of small holes increases flow but does not make it obnoxious and crackly like a large exit hole does. Some people say it is redneck but for a $20 saw it works well. There are pics in the 5020 thread.
Makes a huge difference in power IMO. Be sure to retune.
I drilled 8 1/4" holes in the muffler. That made a huge difference.
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Yes but you need to hog out the baffle inside the muffler too.Would this work on a 4218?
Hmm, wonder what pattern that is. What Pioneer saw did it come from?Unfortunately, the shorter bar is a little too tall on the tail end. The oiler hole extends past the mounting plate. It oils the bar, but a lot of oil runs out beside the bar in front of the sprocket. Oh well.
That does use the same bar mount as the 5020...post up a pic of the bar on the saw with the clutch cover off.1074
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