Been looking for a shorter bar for my 5020 since the 20" is too long. Ran across this 14" Hardnose Pioneer bar I had. Looks to be the correct pattern and fits well. 
New bar for the 5020
- Thread starter GeorgiaVol
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mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
Please cut some stuff and report back on how that combination works, and how the saw handles and feels with the short, stout bar on it.
I’m thinking the short bar would offset some of the boxy, bulky configuration of the powerhead...but does it balance well? Does the hard nose act as a power-sucker? Never used a hard nose bar
before, I don’t think.
I’m thinking the short bar would offset some of the boxy, bulky configuration of the powerhead...but does it balance well? Does the hard nose act as a power-sucker? Never used a hard nose bar
before, I don’t think.
Will do. I was looking for a 16" but didn't have one that fit
how about this one?
I ran a 16" 3/8 setup on my 5020 until I did the muffler mod and now run a full 72 DL 20" on it. In stock form it pulled the 16 a lot better than the 20". It is very adequate with the 20" even in hardwood now that it has the MM.
How many DL chain for that 14" bar?
How many DL chain for that 14" bar?
Not sure. Chain was with it and I didn't count.
hrhunter
ArboristSite Operative
What did you do for the muffler mod?
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
I just turned the front of the muffler into swiss cheese with a 1/4" bit. A number of small holes increases flow but does not make it obnoxious and crackly like a large exit hole does. Some people say it is redneck but for a $20 saw it works well. There are pics in the 5020 thread.
Makes a huge difference in power IMO. Be sure to retune.
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
I am seriously considering a shorter bar for my 5020.
(And a piston ring and maybe piston from my recent not-conservative-enough tuning adjustment. Saw still runs and cuts but feels like some of its get up and go musta got up and went.
Although switching to Stihl RM semi-chisel chain from the stock Vanguard sure makes a difference. Grabbier, but throws quite the chips shower.
(And a piston ring and maybe piston from my recent not-conservative-enough tuning adjustment. Saw still runs and cuts but feels like some of its get up and go musta got up and went.
Although switching to Stihl RM semi-chisel chain from the stock Vanguard sure makes a difference. Grabbier, but throws quite the chips shower.
I have a small air leak in this one. I got it that way but haven't fixed it yet. I just know from my previous 2 that I wanted a shorter bar. My CS590 gets the 20" bar duty.
hrhunter
ArboristSite Operative
I just turned the front of the muffler into swiss cheese with a 1/4" bit. A number of small holes increases flow but does not make it obnoxious and crackly like a large exit hole does. Some people say it is redneck but for a $20 saw it works well. There are pics in the 5020 thread.
Makes a huge difference in power IMO. Be sure to retune.
I drilled 8 1/4" holes in the muffler. That made a huge difference.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Makes a huge difference in power IMO. Be sure to retune.
I drilled 8 1/4" holes in the muffler. That made a huge difference.
Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
Clifford NC
ArboristSite Lurker
Would this work on a 4218?
Yes but you need to hog out the baffle inside the muffler too.
Also be sure you get all of the metal shavings out.
Unfortunately, the shorter bar is a little too tall on the tail end. The oiler hole extends past the mounting plate. It oils the bar, but a lot of oil runs out beside the bar in front of the sprocket. Oh well.
Hmm, wonder what pattern that is. What Pioneer saw did it come from?
1074
The oiler hole may have been extended at some point. It is pretty old.
Fill up that part of the slot with JB-WELD, problem solved.
That does use the same bar mount as the 5020...post up a pic of the bar on the saw with the clutch cover off.
