New chains cut like a knife thru butter-how to keep them that way?

[Mastermind]

Lots of bad information, not only on this thread but several others I've read lately. Tuning, muffler mods, cutting technique, "why does my saw cut crooked"....more bad advice and bad examples than good.
No point in getting upset about it though. They'll figure things out eventually. Or not.

Me, I don't get involved in these arguments any more. I stay up in the F&L threads where it's safe.

Where are the guys that would be in here talking about raker height, proper hook, gullet clearing, etc. Off the roll chain cuts like ****......when you guys get serious about chain, you'll see that.

 

[Hinerman]

Don, Just for the heck of it, the next time you sharpen a chain try pinching a paint stirrer (vertically) against the bar & tooth with your opposite hand and tell me if you don't think it helps. The bottom of the stirrer should be on your table (or other surface) and a little downward pressure will also keep the bar from moving up or down. I would really like to get your feedback on if this works for you.

Thanks,

I'm tracking what you are saying. Makes complete sense to me. As Spock would say---"your logic is sound". I'm going to use this method from now on. Thanks for the tip. I don't have a grinder yet. I am not great at hand filing but I give it my best, am learning, and getting better. I use the roller guides for guidance. I would like to spend an afternoon with somebody who knows what they are doing with a file in their hand. For now I will keep reading these threads and try to take something away from each one.

 

[Woody912]

I'm tracking what you are saying. Makes complete sense to me. As Spock would say---"your logic is sound". I'm going to use this method from now on. Thanks for the tip. I don't have a grinder yet. I am not great at hand filing but I give it my best, am learning, and getting better. I use the roller guides for guidance. I would like to spend an afternoon with somebody who knows what they are doing with a file in their hand. For now I will keep reading these threads and try to take something away from each one.

I sometimes pull down on my chain (or stick a screwdriver between the tangs) at the bottom while sharpening or put my thumb against the side of the cutter to minimize tooth roll

 

[Gologit]

Where are the guys that would be in here talking about raker height, proper hook, gullet clearing, etc. Off the roll chain cuts like ****......when you guys get serious about chain, you'll see that.

And what about taking the rakers down evenly? Nobody seems to pay much attention to that. Consistent raker height is important to a good cutting and smooth running chain.

 

[Mastermind]

And what about taking the rakers down evenly? Nobody seems to pay much attention to that. Consistent raker height is important to a good cutting and smooth running chain.

Very good point. I'm glad to see you bring it up Bob.

Here's an example of a chain with uneven rakers. It's cutting well, but is a rough ride.

 

[MustangMike]

Good demonstration Randy

 

[MustangMike]

I sometimes pull down on my chain (or stick a screwdriver between the tangs) at the bottom while sharpening or put my thumb against the side of the cutter to minimize tooth roll

Exactly, but the paint stirrer is more rigid than your thumb and can also stabilize the bar vertically.

 

[mdavlee]

Where are the guys that would be in here talking about raker height, proper hook, gullet clearing, etc. Off the roll chain cuts like ****......when you guys get serious about chain, you'll see that.

I was going to try to help them but a lot act like they know it all about chain so I'll set in the corner and watch.

 

[mdavlee]

This is good stuff. And true. If you are not the owner of said brand new Stihl RS, methinks the actual owner won't be agreeing to let you file on it. And race chain? Yup, you can turn chain faster in the wood by taking it back to the pivot but you won't sustain an edge.

The chrome is all the way on the cutter. There's no difference in cutting edge life from new to 15% of the cutter left.

 

[mdavlee]

A thinner chain cuts less kerf. There's a reason guys take them apart and thin the inside of the cutter where the tie straps are to narrow it up.

 

[mdavlee]

Because they don't have a, "job"?

Some of those guys build saws and chains for their "job". A good chain for racing is in the $450-750 neighborhood and a hot saw is $7-10k.

 

[Philbert]

The cutters do change in width and height as they are filed/ground back. The size of the gullet, and chip clearing capacity increases as a cutter is filed/ground. A smaller cutter weighs less. These are all important to race chains, along with some other factors.

But a race chain is not a work chain. A race chain only has to survive 2 down cuts and 1 up. Sharper is not necessarily better in a work chain, if that edge does not hold up. A razor blade is sharper than an axe, but not better in chopping wood. An Indy car is not very practical to take to the supermarket or to use for commuting.

From a practical standpoint, it may be interesting or instructional to understand what racers do to their chains, but it is not necessarily a blueprint for work chains. Anyone who sharpens their own chains can decide how much race technology they want to incorporate into their techinque.

Philbert

 

[mdavlee]

Where was you racing to? Look like they was standing still.

Huh?

 

[sunfish]

Huh?

Think he started drinking early...

 

[Hinerman]

Very good point. I'm glad to see you bring it up Bob.

Here's an example of a chain with uneven rakers. It's cutting well, but is a rough ride.

Unfortunately, that sounded and looked familiar. Now I know what is contributing to the "rough ride". You looked like you were having fun coming out of that last cut....ripping through logs like that with a stout saw will put a smile on your face won't it?

 

[Gologit]

I was going to try to help them but a lot act like they know it all about chain so I'll set in the corner and watch.

LOL...remember that chain you sent me? I still have it but I'll be darned if I can get it as sharp as you had it.

 

[mdavlee]

LOL...remember that chain you sent me? I still have it but I'll be darned if I can get it as sharp as you had it.

Yeah some know more than me about it evidently so I'm going to watch for tips to make mine better.

 

[Gologit]

Think he started drinking early...

Did he say anything important enough for me to take him off of my IGNORE list? Never mind...thanks anyway...I already know the answer to that question.

 

[MustangMike]

The cutters do change in width and height as they are filed/ground back. The size of the gullet, and chip clearing capacity increases as a cutter is filed/ground. A smaller cutter weighs less. These are all important to race chains, along with some other factors.

But a race chain is not a work chain. A race chain only has to survive 2 down cuts and 1 up. Sharper is not necessarily better in a work chain, if that edge does not hold up. A razor blade is sharper than an axe, but not better in chopping wood. An Indy car is not very practical to take to the supermarket or to use for commuting.

From a practical standpoint, it may be interesting or instructional to understand what racers do to their chains, but it is not necessarily a blueprint for work chains. Anyone who sharpens their own chains can decide how much race technology they want to incorporate into their techinque.

Philbert

Excellent Point!

 

[spencerpaving]

You better verify the width of the incisor at the factory edge and 15% from the back, boss.

are you serious about this? or are you just messing around.....the tooth is shaped like that so it has a"point of contact " with the wood and it will hold a sharp edge for the life of the cutter as long as it filed or ground properly