New guy with a crazy 372xp question

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It definitely looks worse than it is! It doesn't look like it's that far apart, unless the cylinder and case have been split, and were just put back together loosely... If the bolts are tight on those, I would guess that it's probably OK... If he knows the cylinder is in good shape, he may have taken the jug off, so you might make sure the bolts holding the jug onto the cases are tight...

Probably the worst part of this whole thing is putting the carb back together, and while I can't help you with that particular carb, there are those here who can and will...

Mike
 
That saw isn't 'all apart' :) It's stripped down for cleaning! Clean her, get the carb mentioned above, get new clutch shoes and springs, get new fuel and impulse lines, a new fuel filter, new caps, new pump, and check the barrel is on right. Check the clutch drum and make sure there are no cracks in it. You'll have it all back together and in great shape for a fraction of $300. You have the non-limited coil so yer good to go there. Or, better yet, put it all together as stated and see if one of the good fellows at the build-off GTG will port it for ya.
 
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I agree that the only hard part would be to put the carb back together if you weren't the one who tore it apart and you don't know where all the pieces go.

If carb kits were cheap and carbs were expensive, it might be worth fooling with, but in this case it might be easier/cheaper in the long run to just pay $35 for a new Zama.

Clutch, oiler, starter, muffler, tank are pulled off, but that shouldn't be too hard with an IPL (illustrated parts list) and a little advice from somebody (not me) who knows a 372 inside and out.
 
Ok, I cleaned off all the major parts, and found out that a few parts were not reattached, just stuck on.

How do I know what year my saw was built and which IPL to use?

Also, I think that my muffler might have been modified already. It has a couple small "scoops" welded/screwed onto it which don't look stock to me, but I have no reference so perhaps they are. Will that make it harder to get it running right when it's reassembled?

If I did choose to simply buy a new carb, where would be the best place? Is that ebay link above the carb I should buy or just one option, and if so, what are the others? Is there a preferred place to pick up new parts? I hope I don't need all the stuff that wyk mentioned.
 
Kocherjj said:
Ok, I cleaned off all the major parts, and found out that a few parts were not reattached, just stuck on.
Make sure everything on the case is tight. Especially the flywheel but and coil. Dont want those to be loose. Also the oiler, jug bolts, and decomp valve.

How do I know what year my saw was built and which IPL to use?
To the best of my knowledge, everything should be the same in the 372 series

Also, I think that my muffler might have been modified already. It has a couple small "scoops" welded/screwed onto it which don't look stock to me, but I have no reference so perhaps they are. Will that make it harder to get it running right when it's reassembled?
Shouldnt make it harder to get running. But will take some initial tuning to get it set right so you dont have it too rich, or too lean.
If I did choose to simply buy a new carb, where would be the best place? Is that ebay link above the carb I should buy or just one option, and if so, what are the others? Is there a preferred place to pick up new parts? I hope I don't need all the stuff that wyk mentioned.
Site sponsor Baileys is a good place for parts. But Im not sure on the carb. Skippy said it worked for him
Click to expand...
Hope that helps
 
Kocherjj said:
I hope I don't need all the stuff that wyk mentioned.
Click to expand...

If you didn't need those parts, you wouldn't have posted ;)

The service guy claimed you had carb issues, to rule out any carb issues you need to make sure you have a good impulse and fuel line, as well as a good fuel filter. These aren't really optional, and all together will cost you maybe $13 from Baileys.
Buy the carb suggested above from the seller he siggested.
You claimed you had oiler issues, since you likely do not know how to fiddle with an oiler, it's probably a good idea for you to just replace yours with a new one - that is where most of the cost is gonna come from.
Your saw is used, so you MAY benefit from a new set of springs. Chances are the shoes are good. But inspect them.
A crack in your clutch housing will eventually be fatal - so check for them.

All of this is easy to do with your saw apart. In other words, since someone took it apart for you, use this opportunity to put it back together in much better shape than it was for a fraction of what they want to put it together for you.

Here is how to fix your impulse line(make sure to measure the new line with the old lines to keep the lengths right):

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/MISJwYMQJoA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Fuel line example:

<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JrXpU70Hmi0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Ok, after taking it to a couple nearby shops who wouldn't touch this saw, I finally am getting some evening time with fall here, so I ordered all the parts mentioned, and the new carb from the ebay link. The shipping on the carb said up to a month so it might be a while before I can get this project going. I also ordered a new muffler because the one I have is fairly rusted and the price wasn't bad.

Is there any sort of assembly manual available for the 372? I did find the link to the IPLs. I have no idea what year my saw is, but someone said that they're all basically the same so I snagged one. Can I begin any of the reassembly now or will it be easier to put the clutch and carbs and such on while the large parts are separate?

I hope to have this saw running before much longer, since firewood season is fast approaching. I appreciate the help I got already and I am sure I'll have plenty of questions as I try to put this back together.
 
Starting with a completely tore down saw.. I start with the piston/cylinder. And carb sometimes, depends on the model. Some are easier to place the carb first, then slide the cylinder down.

Then using a piece of rope for a piston stop-keep it outta the ports!, I install the oiler, rim, clutch.

Flywheel side is easy. Set the air gap with a business card.

Install muffler. Run fuel lines into tank, then up through the case. Install the tank onto the case.

YOU CAN DO THIS!!!
 
Don't be afraid, dig in. Having the IPL is a good idea so you can get gaskets, shims, and air dams in ok, but there's no magic here, start hangin' stuff on that sucker. Be sure to snug that flywheel up reasonably well, it's a bummer if they spin on these as it takes out the flywheel key. Same for the clutch, though I think everyone should, at least once, see just how fast a clutch drum can sprint across the yard. It's a great "what-the-hell?" moment.

Every one of the 372s I've done has been from a box of parts that looked every bit as bad as yours.... if a shmuck like me can do it, so can you. Use the site, there's LOTS of stuff here on 372s. When you finish this saw, you'll never need to pay anyone to mess with it again (especially since, as you found out, some of them don't know what they're doing).
 
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Here is a workshop manual for a 371XP. Very little differences and those differences can be easily sorted through. I just finished going through a 372XP and they are fairly straight forward to work on. Pay attention to the muffler bolts when you put it back together as they can vibrate out very quickly. If they do, try reasmbling with Locktite 242 (blue). This is removable if you ever need to take the muffler back off. You can do it! Hang in there!
View attachment 199438
 
Man that sucks!
This dude is lucky you don't have a short fuse like myself. I am not kidding this guy would need a team of surgeons to remove the bar from his a**!
Just reading about this has got me pissed. You just don't do things like this.
If you are unable to do the job just admit it and recommend someone who can.

These experts here can help. Good luck.
 
I received the new parts which I ordered, Carb, Muffler, fuel line, fuel filter, oil pump, tank caps and clutch assembly, so today I started the reassembly process.

I've learned a bit already. First, I think my oil pump was probably fine. It seems to have all it's parts and looks basically like the new one. There is a plastic part (503 75 61-02) that is broken into several pieces, and a washer (503 23 00-59) is missing. Perhaps it's on the floor of the shop I took the saw to first. There is also a small brass tube (503 77 43-01) which has a small kink in it. I didn't notice it when I first cleaned up and sorted the parts, but it is kinked. It is also missing a rubber grommet (504 30 00-26) where it goes into the pump. Baileys doesn't have any of those parts, but I found them at e-replacementparts, where I've purchased parts for woodworking tools many times. So they are on order.

Second, I didn't need a new clutch. Looking at my old one it looked to me like it was messed up, but now I have the new one and they look identical. Oh well. I am missing a washer (503 75 24-01). I ordered a new one. I'll never know if I needed a new clutch drum, because he gave me the wrong one back. The one in the box looks nothing like the one I remember hooking the chain onto. Instead of the little metal slotted wheel, the drum has a sort of sprocket sticking out of it. I guess someone else in the area is wondering where their clutch drum went.

Third, the muffler doesn't come with the mounting bracket, (503 76 65-03). I cannot get the screws out of the old muffler, and cannot find a replacement mounting bracket and screws for sale anywhere. Any suggestions? The old muffler is rusty, missing the spark screen and has an extra "scoop" welded onto the side. Would it be ok to go ahead and use it if I can't get a mount for the new one?

Fourth, there is a part listed for the carb area, with two part numbers, (503 66 53-01 and 50366 74-01 EPA). It appears to be an extension for one of the adjustments on the carburetor, but that's just a guess on my part. I do not have any part in my pile which even remotely resembles that. Do I need it, and if so, which part number?

Fifth, the throttle cable and tube is kinked very badly. I know the throttle worked fine before taking the saw in, so I guess that happened when it was being torn down. I ordered a new one.

I am also missing part number (503 79 27-01) which in the diagram seems to be a cover for a spring above the clutch area. I assume I need that so I ordered it.

Last, there is a metal plate that goes between the saw body and the chain, (537 01 37-71)which has a split in it. I cannot find that part for sale anywhere either. Any suggestions for tracking that down?

I think that's it for the missing parts. However, the spark plug wire has been worn almost down to the wire in a couple spots. can I replace that without buying the whole new ignition assembly? I couldn't find them separate anywhere. I tried taking off the flywheel to clean behind it, but it doesn't want to budge. The nut and washer are off but the flywheel seems jammed in pretty good. It it supposed to be like that? I'd gladly leave it alone if that's the best thing to do, but if that's a problem I'd rather deal with it now.

Someone also mentioned making sure the "barrel" is on right. Pardon my ignorance, but what is the barrel of a chainsaw?

Thanks a lot for your assistance and understanding. I'm looking forward to getting this saw humming again, but I've got a ways to go yet.
 
Kocherjj said:
Instead of the little metal slotted wheel, the drum has a sort of sprocket sticking out of it. I guess someone else in the area is wondering where their clutch drum went.
You either have a spur drum, or the drive rim came off of yours.
Third, the muffler doesn't come with the mounting bracket, (503 76 65-03). I cannot get the screws out of the old muffler, and cannot find a replacement mounting bracket and screws for sale anywhere. Any suggestions? The old muffler is rusty, missing the spark screen and has an extra "scoop" welded onto the side. Would it be ok to go ahead and use it if I can't get a mount for the new one?
You can use a small propane torch to apply heat, and sometimes it will help loosen the bolts. Also the "scoop" may have been added as a muffler mod. It will help the saw flow/breath better. A wire brush and a can of Hi-temp paint can make the mufflers look a little better
Fourth, there is a part listed for the carb area, with two part numbers, (503 66 53-01 and 50366 74-01 EPA). It appears to be an extension for one of the adjustments on the carburetor, but that's just a guess on my part. I do not have any part in my pile which even remotely resembles that. Do I need it, and if so, which part number?
503 66 53-01 is a sleeve. Helps you reach the adjusters (I think), while the saw is running. The screwdriver will vibrate around with out it, and it is a pain

I am also missing part number (503 79 27-01) which in the diagram seems to be a cover for a spring above the clutch area. I assume I need that so I ordered it.
That is a support.. Ive never been into the chainbrake on our parts numbers

Last, there is a metal plate that goes between the saw body and the chain, (537 01 37-71)which has a split in it. I cannot find that part for sale anywhere either. Any suggestions for tracking that down?
Alternative part# 537046601, do you have a dealer close?

The nut and washer are off but the flywheel seems jammed in pretty good. It it supposed to be like that? I'd gladly leave it alone if that's the best thing to do, but if that's a problem I'd rather deal with it now.
Yes they are rather tight. A flywheel puller can be used. Another method(not the best) You can put 2 flatblade screwdrivers behind the flywheel and apply pressure. Install the nut on the threads so you dont damage them. Then smack it with a hammer.. Easier with a helping hand. Or you could just leave it on there :D
Someone also mentioned making sure the "barrel" is on right. Pardon my ignorance, but what is the barrel of a chainsaw?
Barrel=Jug=Cylinder. Intake side is round, exhaust side is square/rectangular. Make sure the arrow on the piston is pointed towards the exhaust
Click to expand...

Sending you a PM as well..
 
Third, the muffler doesn't come with the mounting bracket, (503 76 65-03). I cannot get the screws out of the old muffler, and cannot find a replacement mounting bracket and screws for sale anywhere.

Once you have the old muffler in hand. Put it in a vise (lightly) and apply heat to the muffler bracket bolts, they can be removed but must get red hot. Vise grips should work well.................did on mine.
 
axlerod74 said:
Third, the muffler doesn't come with the mounting bracket, (503 76 65-03). I cannot get the screws out of the old muffler, and cannot find a replacement mounting bracket and screws for sale anywhere.

Once you have the old muffler in hand. Put it in a vise (lightly) and apply heat to the muffler bracket bolts, they can be removed but must get red hot. Vise grips should work well.................did on mine.
Click to expand...

SO...................anyone know whatever became of this saw?????
 

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