New Husqvarna 365xt hard to start cold and review.

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crabhab

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I love my new 365xt. I have gotten about 2.5 tanks through it. I am running 50:1 husqvarna pre mix and then switched to my fresh 89 octane non ethanol stihl ultra mix.

When starting from cold this beast is a real ##### to start cold. Choke on decompress button pushed and forget about it. It is insane. I usually get it running with no choke pulling a million times.

I googled hard start i saw some peep having issues in 2011 when this 365xt/372 series was introduced but didn't come up with solutions.


Once warm this saw is a single pull starter. Tons of power and torque I love this saw. I like how the saw doesn't clog its air filter like my stihl ms 290 and 250, they are easy to start but really throw dust and chips at the engine air filter. This saw makes great music nice burble at idle and full throated wail in the cut. The ms250 sounds like a string trimmer compared to the 365xt. There is very little vibration compared to my homeowner/ranch stihls. Husqvarna did a good job designing this saw I wonder if the q/c is lacking in Sweden?


Back to the dealer?

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Quit using the decomp and it may start easier. You may be missing the first sign of it starting with the decomp in. Usually if nothing in 5-6 pulls then I take the choke off and pull it until it starts in 2-3 pulls or I'll put the choke on again and try it. You may be flooding it. There's other threads with information about hard starting like you described that is fixed by a different method.
 
Hmm does it go in to "fast idle" when it does start untill you pull the trigger. Cold start can be a beast without fast idle on some saws. I'm also thinking it could be rich low speed jet mixed with below spec idle. Which the low speed jet and idle go hand in hand.
 
This saw makes great music nice burble at idle and full throated wail in the cut.

If it is burbling at idle then the low speed jet is too rich. The saw should have a nice smooth idle just below where it engages the clutch and starts turning the chain.
 
I richened the high speed up to the limiter. I have not messed with the low speed. It picks up off of idle real smooth and fast with no hesitation. I need to turn idle down a bit chain is starting to rotate a bit on idle.

I the mdavlee is on to something I used the scrench to pull the decomp back out and I got it to fire. I am def flooding the saw. With decomp in I must not feel the burp. I also have my dorky chainsaw helmet on maybe I am missing the signal.


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Pops 21 I have noticed I don't have fast idle like my stihls with this saw

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This saw should be very easy to start, but you have to follow the correct starting procedure. It's different than your Stihls.
 
Pops 21 I have noticed I don't have fast idle like my stihls with this saw

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Take the air filter cover off. With the saw not running. Pull the trigger to make sure the fast idle is off. Then pull the choke all the way out while looking at the throttle arm coming out of the carb where the linkage activates the throttle. Make a mental note of where it was before you pulled the choke. You should see it move that arm and lock into that position. Then pull the trigger and you should see the arm snap back into place for normal idle. If it does not do this then something is wrong. Also when you are trying to start it with the decomp pushed in, and it stays in then it has not popped as in tried to fire.
 
I like how the saw doesn't clog its air filter like my stihl ms 290 and 250, they are easy to start but really throw dust and chips at the engine air filter.

I am NOT brand loyal by any means but what you saw is so true. The purest stihl folks that have never ran anything else will refuse to believe you. But it is true. Its a huge difference. Sorry had a chuckled when I read that.
 
Hey Crab. If I was closer I'd tinker on it with you. Mine is a 2011 and I believe it does have the fast idle which requires reset with hitting the throttle after it starts. Are you sure the choke is engaging all the way. If it wasn't that would explain the starting problem also and lack of fast idle when it's starting. Have an 034 super that the choke wasn't fully closing with the choke and it kept popping out enough so that starting was taking about 25 pulls. Started pushing the choke in each pull and minor carb adjustment and went to a three pull start.

You can verify the operation of the choke without starting it by pulling off the top cover and the air filter. Set the choke, make sure it's closing fully - the butterfly closes off the hole in the carb. Push choke in, apply throttle and you should hear/see it pop off high throttle.

Sorry if this all seems rudimentary but most times it's the simplest things. Not trying to assume you don't know but I start troubleshooting from the easiest things.
 
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Thanks for the help. This is my first husqvarna saw. I have owned 2 poulans and three stihls . one thing I know is I don't know everything. I will re evaluate my starting procedure tomorrow.

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Check to make sure it is engaging into fast idle before you try starting it again. ^ Its simple to check look a few posts up where me and bigdaddyr posted how to check.:) If you still have problems then don't give up. We can help you. Its something that should be easy to fix. No need in spending unneeded $$ at the shop. I'm still thinking either the fast idle is not engaging and or its too rich low speed needle along with too high idle adjustment.
 
I have the 372 xp xtork and I can barely hear the initial "pop" on the cold start procedure. Usually after 3 pulls I can hear a faint "pop" with the decomp in. Push in choke and she"ll be purring after a pull or two from that point. Chances are you"re flooding it because you don"t hear the "pop" and keep pulling on full choke. I have a stihl string trimmer that is the same way(without the decomp). I can barely hear the "pop" when choked.
 
Had the same problem with a 2012 version 365xt purchased late 2012. With the decomp pushed in, it just wouldn't "pop." Maybe not enough compression, I don't know. Anyway, it would just about always flood after several pulls and not start. I'd have to take the spark plug out and crank away to clear the flooding. I finally figured out to start it without using the compression release, and all of a sudden it worked just fine. My drill for starting it these days, if this helps, is: Choke on, decomp closed, ignition OFF, pull twice. Ignition ON, choke off (leave on fast idle, don't touch throttle), decomp still off, pull cord gently until you feel compression, and then give it a good yank. Usually will start on first or second pull this way.. Hope this is helpful.. When it's warm, it is a one- pull starter...
 
Common problem, Operator created

DO NOT USE DECOMP (Saw won't pop but instead goes pffftt and you cant hear it)
Engage chain break
On off switch to on.
Pull choke out (on position)
Pull cord till it pops
Push choke in (this sets saw to fast idle) (Do not touch trigger, this will take off fast idle, and if you pull with fast idle off and choke off you will flood the saw)

Pull cord with saw set to fast idle and will start between 1 to 5 pulls.
Quickly pull chain break to rear to release break.
After fast idle for a few seconds blip throttle to release fast idle.
Let saw warm up a few more seconds.

To start warm saw just turn on and pull cord.

Its in the operators manual, but nobody reads those.

I own and love my Mastermind 365 XT which was ported and had the plates ground to turn it into a 371 xt.:msp_wink:
 
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I Never start a saw with the chain break on.

I guess it's OK if ya get it off very quick after it starts. But I'll not do it. :msp_smile:
 
I Never start a saw with the chain break on.

I guess it's OK if ya get it off very quick after it starts. But I'll not do it. :msp_smile:

I do it about %30 of the time, but I'll never tell anyone asking how to start a saw not to.;)
 
Simple. If you have warranty take it back to the dealer. If no warranty for what ever reason remove the carb and inspect/clean same.................:msp_wink:
 
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