New Member Here - Help please

[Gawain]

Saw Poulan Pro PP3516AVX
Chain 3/8 .50 gauge 16" (actually I think its a 91VJ56DL)
35cc (I know.... underpowered)

I've been researching and searching this forum and the web. My original chain stopped cutting so I bought a new chain at Lowes. (56 drive links, 3/8 inch (9.5mm) pitch, .050 inch (1.3mm) gauge, sharpens with 5/32 inch (4mm) file)

I'm working on roots and stumps and trying to stay out of the dirt (rocks).

I had to sharpen my chain after 15 minutes of cutting. It would get so dull that it wouldn't cut at all. Bar got really hot and started smoking. I am using a lot of oil. Probably 1/2 the tank in that 15 minutes. I figured I got a bad chain so I went to Home Depot and bought another chain (yellow code) for a 16" Poulan Pro. This chain did the same thing. While cutting through a 20" root, halfway thru, I noticed sparks coming from the chain or bar. I figured this isn't good so I went back to my original chain, sharpened it, and it threw sparks in the same root at the same location.

I should be able to cut more than 15 minutes without sharpening, is that a correct statement?

I've not filed the rake or dept gauge things, but the brand new chain cut good for only a little while before it needed sharpening and this was a law of diminishing returns. Each time I went to work cutting, the saw would stay sharp for fewer minutes.

OK, I'm going thru a LOT of bar oil... so I know the oiler is working.
I've looked at the bar. It looks OK.
I've been using the Oregon file with guide, sharpening to 30 degrees. When I use the saw after sharpening, it cuts great for 10 or 15 minutes.

What could be happening here with my (saw, chain, bar)?

and, is this a true statement: (posted for a review (not by me) on a Husky 240 which I believe is the same as my Poulan Pro)

Saw will start reliably only if you follow prime & pull instructions precisely. However, the real problem, never explained, and unknown to me at the time of purchase, is that the model 240 has an odd 91 pitch drive pinion that will only accommodate either an H36/91VG or Oregon 91VJ chain, both of which are very narrow, resulting in small chips (dust really) and frequent binding and overheating in moderate to deep cuts. I suspect the 240/18" was designed this way because the engine may not be of sufficient power to drive a wider cut and should never have been offered with an 18" bar. Alternative wider chains, although stating that they will fit the Husq. model 240, do not. I have been cutting wood for 40 years with a variety of cheaper but effective saws that I have always maintained and kept sharp, but finally decided to splurge for a "top of the line saw" only to end up stuck with this pansy good only for cutting little more than twigs.


Thank-you for your help!

Craig Bryant
Bristol, Tennessee USA

 

[Guido Salvage]

No time to read everything, but if you are working in dirty conditions and in the dirt 15 minutes is probably better than average. Unless you use a carbide tipped chain, it will dull quickly. Many of us keep old chains just for this purpose.

Any solid object that you hit (and that creates sparks) is doing damage to your chain. Even the dirt on the roots (or embedded in bark for that matter) will quickly dull a chain. Try exposing as much of what you want to cut and if it is still dirty, spray it with a hose.

Remember, chainsaws were designed to cut wood, not rocks and dirt.

 

[lone wolf]

No time to read everything, but if you are working in dirty conditions and in the dirt 15 minutes is probably better than average. Unless you use a carbide tipped chain, it will dull quickly. Many of us keep old chains just for this purpose.

Any solid object that you hit (and that creates sparks) is doing damage to your chain. Even the dirt on the roots (or embedded in bark for that matter) will quickly dull a chain. Try exposing as much of what you want to cut and if it is still dirty, spray it with a hose.

Remember, chainsaws were designed to cut wood, not rocks and dirt.

Yup what he just said it aint going to work in conditions like that rent a stump grinder and make your life easier.

 

[Gawain]

OK. Glad to know nothing is really "messed up".

Will this chain be an OK replacement on my machine?

16" Oregon Chainsaw Chain Loop (91VXL-56 Drive Links)

 

[Guido Salvage]

If you are cutting in dirt, find the cheapest chain you can because you are going to ruin it anyway. As an aside, this will provide an excellent opportunity for you to learn how to sharpen a chain if you do not already know.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sharpen what's left of one of the worst chains and go buck some clean wood and see how long it lasts before dulling. Bet ya get a bit better mileage there than in the dirt!

Poge

 

[ray benson]

Cutting roots to pull stumps kills chains. They can dull in a minute. I have tried a reciprocating saw with demolition blades that are designed to cut nail embedded wood and they dull quick hitting the dirt.

 

[bigredd]

I mostly use an axe or pick-axe for roots. For using a chainsaw on big roots, try chiseling the cut area with an axe to expose clean wood.

 

[Gawain]

WOW..... thanks everyone, I can give my brain a rest now. :msp_wink:

I just couldn't figure out what the heck was going on. Now I know....

Thanks again,
Craig

 

[dswensen]

Welcome to AS. This is a great place for advice and particularly for problem solving. Most folks are here to help, just ignore those who aren't - there are some of those here too.

PS Say "Hi" to Radar O'Reily for me. (did you think it would take longer?)

 

[WoodChuck'r]

I use my 372 as a trencher for running 8" heavy wall water line for the city and the chain lasts me at least 38miles of trenching in all conditions of any kind before I even have to think of touching a file to the cutters.....

You must be doing something wrong man what kind of fuel you running....?