New To Chain Saws...Stihl 025

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danaco

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Hi all, I just picked up a Stihl 025 from craig's list. It's in good condition but well used. It starts, seems to run strong but I am new to this type of tool. I have a fairly full metal/wood shop so i am capable of getting this saw right etc.

I would appreciate any helpful comments on it's maintenance and safe use.

Look forward to hearing back.

dana
 
Welcome aboard Dana, if you like/need/want chainsaws just a little bit. You better be prepared, cause this place will drain your wallet faster than anything!

That being said, first thing I'd do, if it were my saw, is drain both the bar oil, and most especially the fuel out of it. If you didn't mix it and put it in there yourself then you have no idea of how old it is, or what the mix rate is etc. etc.
Other than that, I'd just give it a good cleaning, check the plug, and what little bit of internals you can see inside the plug hole. Also check fuel line, impulse line, carb to intake boot for dry rotting or cracks. Those things can ruin a saw almost undetected and very quickly!
Next, hang out here for a while and read, ask questions, and glean the knowledge of all the great folks 'round here.

Good luck
 
Thanks murf, I'll check out those things.

Also, what would you say are the most important saftey things to keep in mind with these things. Should/should not's
 
Sobriety is a good starting point! :givebeer:

Beyond that, I HIGHLY recommend some form of hearing protection, I can't cut without it. Then eye protection. Many ways to accomplish that. Safety glasses, Face shield/screen. Or you can get you an all in one type thing. Most are a hard hat with a fold down face screen and earmuffs. I have one from Baileys.com that just has the face screen and earmuffs (I love it!)
Then there's gloves, if you chose to wear them. Chaps are very popular around here, and I'll admit they could DEFINITELY save your hide if the need arose. Then I guess all that is left is a pair of full blown Logger/Faller boots. I was looking for a reasonably priced pair for a while when NMurph turned me on to a pair of Matterhorn chainsaw boots. Steel toe, Vibram soles, and Kevlar lined. They are a little bit pricey I suppose, but well worth it in my opinion.

Good luck!
 
hey murf, glad to hear you got the boots. they are def cheaper than a co-pay at the ER.

Dana, ear plugs and chaps are mandatory. boots are another nice piece that adds a layer of protection. one other thing to keep in mind is to control the tip of the bar, especially the upper third. if you bump this area and don't have control of the saw you are likely to experience "kick back." it is not a bad idea to run the saw at low rpm's and let the tip touch the wood so that you get a feel for what happens.

there are some pretty good vids on youtube. but there are even more clowns that shouldn't own a saw. i think there is a good one produced by husqvarna. there are also those that are produced by the safety nazi's that make you think a chainsaw is as dangerous as a nuclear bomb; respect them, but enjoy the power they give you........
 
Give it the once over if it is well used. Check these as a preliminary.

(1). Bar condition. Take the chain off and see if the bar has a lip coming off of the rails. This would indicate it has been well used indeed. It needs to be dressed by removing the burr with a file so that the surface is filed to a 90 degree at the edge, a small chamfer is ok on the corner.

(2). Check the condition of your chain. If not familiar with sharpening there are many threads here and some stuff at stihl.com. Otherwise it's a good $5.00 investment to have it professionally sharpened. This way when you really test it for the first time you'll know the feel of a sharp chain.

(3). Check the air filter for cleanness, it could save your piston and cylinder. If the carb injests a certain amount of saw dust it can score the piston and cylinder. Check your fuel filter as well, for $5.00 you can usually replace it. If you use the saw regularly I would replace it every year.

(4). Use premium gas, not the low-octane stuff, and genuine Stihl HP mix oil. With the problem of ethanol now days some are even going to aviation fuel. Ethanol is DEFINITELY a problem for 2 cycle equipment.

(5). Bar chain oil. Most of these saws that come through here have burnt motor oil in the bar chain oil reservoir. Though it is cheap, it is not good for your bar, oil filter pickup and the life of your chain. If not sure, drain it out, and start with a good bar chain oil. The bar chain oil has ingredients that make it adhere to the chain and provide adequate lube for your bar rails and chain. (Tractor Supply had theirs on sale for $6.00 a gallon.)

If it is indeed running and running well, give it the once over and put it in some wood. These are nice saws, I've repaired, ran and sold a crock load of them. If cared for you should be reasonably happy.
Happy Sawing. :clap:
 
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I'm cheap, so I wear steel toe boots under my Labonville chaps instead of real chainsaw boots.

There's a 20% off sale at Labonville, get the chaps ordered now before the sale ends. Pay special attention to the sizing, their chaps measure from the top of the belt to the bottom of the chap, which should be as near as possible to the top of your foot.
Their Gripo headgear is acceptable, but the Peltor or, better yet, Rockman are nicer. (I've got the older version of the Gripo)
 
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i agree mostly.....no need for premium.....mid-grade is fine (per stihl) and the recommendation for Stihl Ultra is sound advice. dump it and run the saw dry if you are going to let it set for more than a month or so. though i don't do this myself, i can easily fix the problems if the carb gunks up or a fuel line goes soft from fuel....try to find a gas station that sells fuel that is alcohol-free. it might take some looking on this one.... there is a website where people list stations they have found that sell alcohol-free fuel...a google search would probably turn it up.
read up on filing your chain---very important for performance, the life of your saw and your general pleasure in cutting wood.
walmoat is another good place for bar oil. you can get the poulan oil in the green jug for about $7. there is no need to buy the husky or stihl branded bar oil.
 
Thanks all for the good tips and such. I might ask the local Sthil shop what they want to go thru it. Probably too much !

d
 
I don't know if anyone mentioned it but I would learn how to sharpen a chain....When I first started cutting I sharpened terribley and always thought there was something wrong with my saw. I would have someone teach me to sharpen correctly. What do you say guys?
 
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