New to me Husqvarna 268xp - just a couple questions...

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dieslcruisrhead

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Husqvarna 268xp - just a couple questions...

Just picked up a fairly mint early model 268xp. I've pretty much read every thread on this board and/or the internet about these models, and the similar 272xp. What a brilliantly simple machine. I didn't know too much about 2 stroke until I put some time into this chainsaw last night and how it works. I managed to get it close to mostly torn down, completely cleaned up with 23 years of saw dust and bar oil, compression test done, and back together in about 2 years. I now know how a chainsaw works.. :laugh:

- Here is the serial number. What year is this, '89 or 1990 is my guess? It has the old style side cover, but the 1989 and later plastic chain brake instead of the metal one.
009-M.jpg


- My guess is with ethanol (there was fuel in there) that carb gumming would be a big deal. Should I proactively pull the carb and clean it? Seems to run OK right now but I haven't cut more than a couple tree branches with it.

- I did a compression test. Came in at just over 130 psi according to my crappy but fairly new Pep Boys compression tester. I trust it though but maybe I'll recheck on another of my gauges lying around. Is 130 low enough to warrant a rebuild? I know this is a well discussed but which kit, Meteor? I'll update to the 52mm piston kit at this time as well.

- Here are pics. I bought it from the original owner, it has the original bar and has only had 1 chain and shows little wear and tear on the plastics. I'll be using it for occasional firewood and things like that but not every day use... But I want it to last a long long time and I'll pull the gas, run it dry for storage and down time. I'd like to have this thing another 20 years if possible as these late 80s / early 90s Husqvarnas hold a spot in my heart (dad nearly identical one while I was growing up in the 80s and 90s). I also like how simple it is and that it's a pre EPA era unless the EPA changes don't add too much difference.

- Pics, if it helps...
Husqvarna 268xp / 272xp - andreshoumatoff's Photos

Filter looks pretty clean...
117-M.jpg


Bosch plug - that's gotta go..

Cleaned up a little...
130-M.jpg


Girls of Stihl watching closely so I had to make sure the Husqvarna was in nice shape.
132-M.jpg


Bare min is a new bar, 18" and chain. And then that plug.
Perhaps the new piston kit. and maybe a carb overhaul. Curious on folks' thoughts on these. I don't mind putting upto $150-$200 into this saw to make it totally solid...

thanks


And just FYI for anyone finding this thread on this 268xp model through a search, here are two of the better threads I've found on the 268xp..
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/100071.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/193905.htm

The second one is great with info on the 272xp as well. they are basically the same with a slightly larger piston and different stickers. All other parts are interchangeable...
 
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Wow NICE 268xp and not one comment? Guess jealousy causes that? What did you do as far as upgrades? I would just re-ring with a Caber or factory if you can find one.
 
Good post...sorry I'm late. My pop gave me his saw now that he is in his 80's and it is a 268XP...beast of a saw. It has begun to spit and sputter a bit and when I let off the throttle it quits...needs several pull attempts before it starts again. Is it flooding?
 
Good post...sorry I'm late. My pop gave me his saw now that he is in his 80's and it is a 268XP...beast of a saw. It has begun to spit and sputter a bit and when I let off the throttle it quits...needs several pull attempts before it starts again. Is it flooding?
Do you reset high idle when trying to re-start? Have you changed fuel filter and fuel line? Look for cracks in hose. When you have it running take carb cleaner and spray near clutch side seal and flywheel side seal, be careful not to spray near intake. If you have a seal leak it will stop the saw. What is saws compression? They are nice saws and worth rebuilding.
 
Thank you Duce......I am a DIYselfer and can do these things. I have been reading enough to be able to follow most of what your saying. I will begin my investigation and be in touch. Do you have a specific recommendation on a web site and a place for parts? I will take care of the fuel parts first and I need to get a pressure gauge
 
I would check for air leaks first. Your carb initial settings for that model are 1 turn open on both L and H. Your T setting should be adjusted so chain just stops spinning at idle, let it warm up. That allows enough air in to start your saw and let it idle. If you have a tach Idle speed should be around 2500 and Max rpm 12,500. All of those are just starting points and should allow you to tune your saw. I like to hear mine slightly 4 stroke letting off the cut and smooth out in the cut, but to each his own. If you have 150 psi and piston looks good through exhaust port, with no air leaks, muffler screen not plugged, hose and filter good, may need to clean and rebuild carb. If you can post pictures, we all like pictures.
 

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