thanks bud ;o)2-10 should have an automatic oil pump in addition to the manual oiler. Remove the cover from the oil tank (one screw on the front of the saw) and see inside.
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Mark
thanks fro the info ;o) there's deffinately no duckbill in the carbThat is the single needle version, the L adjustment is the threaded needle to the right, you make the H adjustment with that fillister head screw, literally controls how far the throttle opens but more importantly controls how far the "L" needle is pulled open which ultimately meters the fuel flow at high speeds.
There were several different primer types, but many used a small duck bill valve on the outlet, your is probably melted away. They are NLA, but you can drill the bore for them slightly to make use of the Homelite 69451 red duck bill valve. Diaphragms for those are frequently available on e-bay, check your carefully as there were at least 5 different versions of that diaphragm and they do not all interchange freely.
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It is possible to swap them out, but the factory provided solution was a new tank bottom (to match the SDC carburetor) and a different AF cover to add some height. This also requires a different throttle and choke linkage, etc.
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I have a 5-10 that someone made their own adapter to fit the SDC carburetor, but that solution won't work for your 2-10 as the AF cover is too short to accommodate the added height.
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You might be surprised that with a few days soaking in fuel and with the proper adjustments that carburetor will function except for the primer.
Mark
P.S. I know who Nora Battie is...
I have ordered a homelite duckbill ;o) what carb kit would that single needle take ? just in case one comes up . kind reds captain dangerousVarious primer options
Mark
will try and get a photo over the weekend / but it may be difficult as I have to fit some break pads/discs to the car, I have no idea how long this will take? rusty bolts etc. ?I can't keep the numbers straight. See if you can match your diaphragm with one of these.
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Mark
i finally got to take it apart again here is a photo of the diaphragm, it has improved since having petrol on it, and i'm currently soaking it for a couple of days before re-fitting, and trying it with the new duckbill valve ;o) if i can get it up and running/ ticking-over nicely i will update with a video as and when . thanks for all your help Mark its much appreciated bud ;o)Here is the complete 10 Series carburetor section from the workshop manual including adjustment instructions.
it didn't look as good as that the 1st time i took it apart Mark when i 1st got it, siting with fuel in it for a few days seems to have improved it greatly, its in a jar of petrol now and i will do all the settings on the carb to book and hopefully i will have a wonderful mac to add to the collection ;o) in the meantime i unboxed a couple of new toys, ones damarm 55 automatic right hand ,the other a danarm 55 automatic left hand. i have a funny feeling they may be actually mcculloch 1-10 seris made under licence, the air filter off the my mac 2-10 fit straight on with perfect lines/profile.(notice the bulge in the danarm airfilter cover to accommodate the tillotson carb) more investigation is needed but here are some photos for you to ponder over Mark ;o)Your diaphragm look like 67357 and appears to be in very good condition. Hopefully it will limber up with some time in the fuel.
Mark
just stripped the left hand one down as I think the big ends gone ? and it doesn't have a reed at all , they just have a basic block gasket between the cylinder and handle/carb casing casing . I will try and get some more photos this week of some of the stripped down components, so you can cast an eye over them and see any similarities with mac, the oil tank and pump looks very similar, the fly wheel is very similar to a10-10 and are prity thin at the thin part and come off the taper with ease. I have actually got the complete one running, runs very well, needed the points cleaning/setting. again I will try and get a video this week or so weather permitting ;o)Mike Acres site calls the Danarm 55 a reed valve saw, I would be interested to know what you find when you pull the carburetor off.
Mark
The similarities are striking indeed. Hard to believe is in only a coincidence.
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Mark
hi mark, I finally got to the problem on the other danarm I have in bits, with the seized piston, it transpires that a little end have given up the ghost and got a needle jammed between the piston/cylinder. pics bellow, this will more than likely be a parts saw now? unless I come across a very cheep piston/cylinder? the danarm cylinder has a cast iron lining which makes the cylinder rather heavy in comparison to modern saws, pics attached of piston and cylinder for curiosity sake. is they similarities with the macs? regards captain dangerousMike Acres site calls the Danarm 55 a reed valve saw, I would be interested to know what you find when you pull the carburetor off.
Mark
hi
hi mark, I finally got to the problem on the other danarm I have in bits, with the seized piston, it transpires that a little end have given up the ghost and got a needle jammed between the piston/cylinder. pics bellow, this will more than likely be a parts saw now? unless I come across a very cheep piston/cylinder? the danarm cylinder has a cast iron lining which makes the cylinder rather heavy in comparison to modern saws, pics attached of piston and cylinder for curiosity sake. is they similarities with the macs? regards captain dangerousView attachment 612432 View attachment 612433 View attachment 612434 View attachment 612435
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