New Wilton Splitting maul...?

[Stihl088stock]

Hi everyone... I just found out about this: Wilton Tools

I haven't found out its country of origin, but it looks nice... Has anyone tried one yet? If so how is it and does it say where it's made?

Thanks!

 

[Hinerman]

First I heard of it. It looks decent to me. I would like to try one myself. A search on-line shows it comes in 6# & 8#, 30" & 36" in both weights from $80-$100 depending on length and weight. Buy one and give us a report.

Their HQs are in TN but their website does not say made in America. I assume it is imported or they would be boasting made in USA.

 

[CTYank]

IME, 8 lb is beyond optimum head weight. 5-6 lb much better.

Much more to the story: head shape & metallurgy are very important. To see what I mean, check out a basic "True Value" or Big Box maul and then the maul that Stihl dealers sell, as made for them by Ochsenkopf in Germany.

Should you get the chance to try them, I think you'll find that the cheapies are no comparison to the Ochsenkopf.
Comparable mauls are made by Wetterlings, Gransfors Bruks, Mueller, and no doubt many other forges. They cost more, but IMHO are much more than worth it.

There are much better options for protecting maul handles. One is the shape of the head, keeping parts of the splits away from hitting the handle. Some of those "indestructible" handles are like linguine.

 

[stihly dan]

I agree with CTYank. Except for this looks like a fiskers with more weight. Looks like it would be a nice splitting tool. I like my ox head from stihl better than the fiskers, but this looks like (by picture) it may be really nice.

 

[zogger]

If you got the larger one with the 36 inch handle looks like you could hacksaw about two lbs or so off that hammer head on the back, and it would swing much faster.

I used to think heavier was better, now I think a faster swing and better aim and better wood reading is better.

 

[gulity1]

Wilton =BASH

I do not have the maul...yet. I do have the 12# 24" hammer at work fits in my tool cart drawer very well and is a BMF period. I chose the shorter heaver setup because most of the time I have to choke up on a 32 or 36 handled hammer doing king pins, beating off stuck tires, brake drums etc, just no room to work with a long hammer. If I can get my tool dealer to order me one I will My 12# was around about $120 I think The handle setup is gaurrentied to never break, head come etc. if and when it does they give a new tool and a $1000 if remember right. They also make a varitey of weights and length hammers and other tools also seems to be well made from what I and other mechaincs have found just my 2cents. I have beat mine like a rented mule very happy.

 

[Brushwacker]

If you got the larger one with the 36 inch handle looks like you could hacksaw about two lbs or so off that hammer head on the back, and it would swing much faster.

I used to think heavier was better, now I think a faster swing and better aim and better wood reading is better.

To get through knots in oak and most hardwoods I still think heavier is better. I prefer the lighter for easy splitting. No since in beating your sockets out of place with any axe or maul when you can cut through them with a chainsaw if you aint getting anywhere in a few swings.
Personally I think the speed is more dangerous. I had a fiskars bounce back rapidly and nearly popped me in the forehead. Only been using a fikars couple years, used primarily monster mauls 25 years + and never recollect any thing close to that. Also if a swing goes bad the lighter tool seems to glance farther off course. I have more then a few close calls with my toes. They are all dangerous tools though when the unexpected happens.

 

[Brushwacker]

Hi everyone... I just found out about this: Wilton Tools

I haven't found out its country of origin, but it looks nice... Has anyone tried one yet? If so how is it and does it say where it's made?

Thanks!

Just looked at it. I'd like to know if that actually works well. Head doesn't look close to fiskars to me. I spent most of 2 years in the west where fir and pine were most what I used for firewood and it did seem to have different splitting characteristics regarding speed and ax vs maul. I used the axe on most of that wood. I've tried many different mauls over here in hardwoods and that doesn't look to me it would have any superiority over an average store bought maul in this neck of the woods. Thats my opinion based on my experience, but I actually haven't used that maul.

 

[Stihl088stock]

I do not have the maul...yet. I do have the 12# 24" hammer at work fits in my tool cart drawer very well and is a BMF period. I chose the shorter heaver setup because most of the time I have to choke up on a 32 or 36 handled hammer doing king pins, beating off stuck tires, brake drums etc, just no room to work with a long hammer. If I can get my tool dealer to order me one I will My 12# was around about $120 I think The handle setup is gaurrentied to never break, head come etc. if and when it does they give a new tool and a $1000 if remember right. They also make a varitey of weights and length hammers and other tools also seems to be well made from what I and other mechaincs have found just my 2cents. I have beat mine like a rented mule very happy.

Thank you, your reply is on topic and answers my question. If I remember, I'll give Wilton a ring this week and ask where it's made.

 

[zogger]

To get through knots in oak and most hardwoods I still think heavier is better. I prefer the lighter for easy splitting. No since in beating your sockets out of place with any axe or maul when you can cut through them with a chainsaw if you aint getting anywhere in a few swings.
Personally I think the speed is more dangerous. I had a fiskars bounce back rapidly and nearly popped me in the forehead. Only been using a fikars couple years, used primarily monster mauls 25 years + and never recollect any thing close to that. Also if a swing goes bad the lighter tool seems to glance farther off course. I have more then a few close calls with my toes. They are all dangerous tools though when the unexpected happens.

for sure there is a learning curve with a lightweight fiskars or other light weight axe, over the muscle memory of decades of monster maul splitting. I only swung one of those a few times, I am just not built big enough to deal with one. I mean I am down to under 120lbs in my neogeezerhood now..I have to work more efficiently, I can't just burn young guy energy or work with older big guy with bulk and strength type status.

My regular el cheapo 8lb is about as heavy as I would want to swing. I am an aim small hit small kinda guy anyway. Fiskars works for me within its design parameters, accuracy and focus and reading the wood and fast decision, keep splitting, or set round aside until later, using plan B or C. And I split inside a tire, helps eliminate any possible overswing type problems. Bounces or trying to split what I call rubber wood..I don't until it has dried more in the round. I will shave off the bark to speed that up.

If I am not noodling (easier) and just want to crack something the fiskars won't do easy, I just slam my 8lb maul into the round where it needs to be and drive it home with the sledge if that is what it takes. That works pretty fast. If needed at the same time, I will add some wedges. just depends..

*mostly* once a nasty crotch piece, etc, is whittled down to fit in my heater I stop there, I use those uglies for all nighters. The top on my heater swings up and you can set in quite a large chunk, say a 12 inch diameter or thick by 16 long, will drop right in there..

Also, by taking a lot more small rounds/ branch wood than most guys, I eliminate having to split as much, it is cut and stack then.

 

[Brushwacker]

for sure there is a learning curve with a lightweight fiskars or other light weight axe, over the muscle memory of decades of monster maul splitting. I only swung one of those a few times, I am just not built big enough to deal with one. I mean I am down to under 120lbs in my neogeezerhood now..I have to work more efficiently, I can't just burn young guy energy or work with older big guy with bulk and strength type status.

My regular el cheapo 8lb is about as heavy as I would want to swing. I am an aim small hit small kinda guy anyway. Fiskars works for me within its design parameters, accuracy and focus and reading the wood and fast decision, keep splitting, or set round aside until later, using plan B or C. And I split inside a tire, helps eliminate any possible overswing type problems. Bounces or trying to split what I call rubber wood..I don't until it has dried more in the round. I will shave off the bark to speed that up.

If I am not noodling (easier) and just want to crack something the fiskars won't do easy, I just slam my 8lb maul into the round where it needs to be and drive it home with the sledge if that is what it takes. That works pretty fast. If needed at the same time, I will add some wedges. just depends..

*mostly* once a nasty crotch piece, etc, is whittled down to fit in my heater I stop there, I use those uglies for all nighters. The top on my heater swings up and you can set in quite a large chunk, say a 12 inch diameter or thick by 16 long, will drop right in there..

Also, by taking a lot more small rounds/ branch wood than most guys, I eliminate having to split as much, it is cut and stack then.

Most the wood I use is like yours, rounds and whittled down knotty pieces, some have been noodled down to fit my stove. I sell wood and most customers want split pieces nice and uniform so the rounds and knotty are a by product that I use for my heat .
I never was 1 for swinging a monster maul, the way I use 1 its more like dropping it accurately and let the weight do the majority of the work. I do most with the Fiskers now but I'm thinking of trying the ox head from Stihl. I have a not so good shoulder and the last winter I primarily used a monster maul my shoulder felt 90% destroyed from the shock through the handle primarily. I'm better then that now but my shoulder is sensitive. A few hits now and then with the m.m. isn't usually too bad unless I were to get to pounding on something that didn't want to split, thats why if it isn't cracking good after 2 or 3 licks its noodling material. I never did like sledges and wedges,they just seem cumbersome to use and carry around. Home owner use around the house now and then for a tough block would be where I would think they have a place. I usually have woodpiles here and there and I sell a lot directly from the woods. Saws, maul, and axe are my bread and butter tools. Selling semi loads of wood are over for me, now its small pick up time and I'm looking forward to less splitting,stacking,carrying... but I do like sawing
You folks be safe with your tools.