Nik's Poulan Thread

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Poulan 7700

Hi guys!
Can anyone post up pictures of a 7700 with intact stickers? I want to have Joe Salva make a set, and he needs pictures. I bought the 7700 that Roanoker was selling. It looked rough, but cleaned up very nicely...Just need to replace the stickers.
Fuel tank was lined with 1/4" of thick old fuel/tar goo. I used about 1/2 cup acetone and a handfull of wood screws to clean it out. It runs good now!
Thanks
Jim
 
Well this is my latest ebay aquisition. I was hoping it was a 3700 but it is a 3800. It did blow 130 psi and is in really nice shape. I am beginning to really like these saws and the features that they have. I like the fact there are plenty of used parts around and they are easily modified if you desire, plus it has that manual oiler that works great. Plus you guys figured out which national seals work and I can still find new rings for them. They are not a bad size and with a 16 to 18" bar will cut through just about anything. I have a 3700 thin ring I am going to work on next and drop the cylinder alittle on that one. The higher compression just make the torque on these saws fantastic. I have 3 days off this weekend and I am going to use it to get caught up on my welding projects that I have and then 4 days next weekend. I am looking forward to it. Thanks Roger

262364d1353017526-craftsman-3-7-jpg
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Well this is my latest ebay aquisition. I was hoping it was a 3700 but it is a 3800. It did blow 130 psi and is in really nice shape. I am beginning to really like these saws and the features that they have. I like the fact there are plenty of used parts around and they are easily modified if you desire, plus it has that manual oiler that works great. Plus you guys figured out which national seals work and I can still find new rings for them. They are not a bad size and with a 16 to 18" bar will cut through just about anything. I have a 3700 thin ring I am going to work on next and drop the cylinder alittle on that one. The higher compression just make the torque on these saws fantastic. I have 3 days off this weekend and I am going to use it to get caught up on my welding projects that I have and then 4 days next weekend. I am looking forward to it. Thanks Roger

262364d1353017526-craftsman-3-7-jpg
262363d1353017520-craftsman-3-7-b-jpg
View attachment 262363View attachment 262364

That is one fine looking specimen
 
Well this is my latest ebay aquisition. I was hoping it was a 3700 but it is a 3800. It did blow 130 psi and is in really nice shape. I am beginning to really like these saws and the features that they have. I like the fact there are plenty of used parts around and they are easily modified if you desire, plus it has that manual oiler that works great. Plus you guys figured out which national seals work and I can still find new rings for them. They are not a bad size and with a 16 to 18" bar will cut through just about anything. I have a 3700 thin ring I am going to work on next and drop the cylinder alittle on that one. The higher compression just make the torque on these saws fantastic. I have 3 days off this weekend and I am going to use it to get caught up on my welding projects that I have and then 4 days next weekend. I am looking forward to it. Thanks Roger

262364d1353017526-craftsman-3-7-jpg
262363d1353017520-craftsman-3-7-b-jpg
View attachment 262363View attachment 262364

got one just like it, though with a little more wear marks. very pleasant saw that does purt near anything i ask it too. mines got a 16" bar. think i would prefer a 20". very comparable to my PP375 insofar as functionality
 
got one just like it, though with a little more wear marks. very pleasant saw that does purt near anything i ask it too. mines got a 16" bar. think i would prefer a 20". very comparable to my PP375 insofar as functionality

I was surprised at how many other saws shared some of the same items as the 3700 series saws have. I have a 395 also and like you said as far as functionality it is very similiar and shares alot of the same construction and parts.
 
Model 202 problem.

Overhauled the 202 with new rings in a nearly mint cylinder with minimal wear on the piston. Used notched rings from 'the Greek'. End gap set at .005" Left out the base gasket.

Problem is, it pumped 110 psi before and now it still pumps 110. W.T.H.!!!!..................................................

Starting to believe the compression release plunger is leaking.

Maybe a seal or 'O' ring missing from it??

Looking for an IPL and/or guidence.

Yes, my Sears guage is accurate.

Carl.
 
Overhauled the 202 with new rings in a nearly mint cylinder with minimal wear on the piston. Used notched rings from 'the Greek'. End gap set at .005" Left out the base gasket.

Problem is, it pumped 110 psi before and now it still pumps 110. W.T.H.!!!!..................................................

Starting to believe the compression release plunger is leaking.

Maybe a seal or 'O' ring missing from it??

Looking for an IPL and/or guidence.

Yes, my Sears guage is accurate.

Carl.
Carl, the plunger probably is leaking some. Did you make sure all carbon was cleaned off of it and inside the port in the cyl when you put it together ?

I have had some success lapping them to the cyl with some valve grinding compound. To be honest, you may not ever get it to seal completely, but it really don't make much difference iin the real world when running.

Old saws man.
 
Carl, the plunger probably is leaking some. Did you make sure all carbon was cleaned off of it and inside the port in the cyl when you put it together ?

I have had some success lapping them to the cyl with some valve grinding compound. To be honest, you may not ever get it to seal completely, but it really don't make much difference iin the real world when running.

Old saws man.
Along with what mark said... I use whitening toothpaste for the finishing when lapping things like that. I know it's probably overkill, but it works great and if your trying to get the most out of it.....

I do diesel injectors that way and they don't leak at 1900psi.
 
Carl, the plunger probably is leaking some. Did you make sure all carbon was cleaned off of it and inside the port in the cyl when you put it together ?

I have had some success lapping them to the cyl with some valve grinding compound. To be honest, you may not ever get it to seal completely, but it really don't make much difference iin the real world when running.

Old saws man.

You have a good point. My striveing for mechanical perfection is biting me in the arse.

It do make a large difference when cranking him to start.:msp_smile:
 
Great score Tom! I see Target blue peeking out from under the PP yellow. The remaining yellow on the cover looks different than what's on the rest of the saw. My guess is that somebody took a Target cutoff saw cover and sprayed it yellow to use on that saw. Same part, so who cares? I passed up on a rough looking Target saw (based on a P-50/PP525 series chainsaw) on feebay a few months ago. I posted the link to the auction in the Pioneer thread. Probably about 10-20 pages back....

Edit:

Here's the ebay link and my post in the Pioneer thread.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-50-12...trYGWaRL9zugkUfzL72DoDc=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

http://www.arboristsite.com/stickies/70698-484.htm#post3867731
 
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306A clutch cover welded.

This is a clutch cover from a 306A with a crack right at where the bucking spike attaches. I noticed that even on my own saw it is cracked in the exact same place. This must be a weak spot on these covers. Well it's all good now.

262492d1353107023-306-cover-jpg
262491d1353107017-306-cover-jpg

This is where I put the cover on the saw to see how it looks.
I like it.
Heck I did not know my own cover was cracked until I took the spike off.
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This is a clutch cover from a 306A with a crack right at where the bucking spike attaches. I noticed that even on my own saw it is cracked in the exact same place. This must be a weak spot on these covers. Well it's all good now.


This is where I put the cover on the saw to see how it looks. I like it. I did not know my own cover was cracked until I took the spike off.

You're getting quite good with the welding!

Nice job! :bowdown:
 
This is a clutch cover from a 306A with a crack right at where the bucking spike attaches. I noticed that even on my own saw it is cracked in the exact same place. This must be a weak spot on these covers. Well it's all good now.

262492d1353107023-306-cover-jpg
262491d1353107017-306-cover-jpg

This is where I put the cover on the saw to see how it looks.
I like it.
Heck I did not know my own cover was cracked until I took the spike off.
262490d1353107007-306-cover-2-jpg
View attachment 262490View attachment 262491View attachment 262492

Roger, thats not really a weak spot on them, they only crack there when someone puts the cover on and then tightens it down without the top being tucked up and under the over hang on the case.

Look at those covers where there cracked and you can see the top of the cover is bent.

I just aint the Poulans from back then that it happens to either, Homelites and others had the same design. Thats what happened to the Homelite cover you that I sent you to fix for Chris also.
 
Roger, thats not really a weak spot on them, they only crack there when someone puts the cover on and then tightens it down without the top being tucked up and under the over hang on the case.

Look at those covers where there cracked and you can see the top of the cover is bent.

I just aint the Poulans from back then that it happens to either, Homelites and others had the same design. Thats what happened to the Homelite cover you that I sent you to fix for Chris also.

Oh I did not realize that until you brought it to my attention. By looking at them I can now see what your talking about when you say they are bent. Thanks for pointing that out, it will be something I will look out for in the future.
 

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