Tonight I had to use my rubber BFH on the 202 to get it to tuck under......................................................................
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Tonight I had to use my rubber BFH on the 202 to get it to tuck under......................................................................
Well it must be tucked in nice and tight now.
Must be some kind of dimension stack up. If the handle/carb. box/fuel tank were 1/32" higher it wouldn't interfear.
Well we modify everything else on these saws so why not. It's only 1/32".
Not really needed, the factory had them fitting just right to begin with. The only problem was somebody not looking at what they were doing when putting the covers on.
Once bent though all bets are off.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Not really needed, the factory had them fitting just right to begin with. The only problem was somebody not looking at what they were doing when putting the covers on.
Once bent though all bets are off.
The other common screwup with all saws that have the tensioner in the cover is for somebody to crank down on the bar nuts when the adjuster peg is NOT seated in the bar's adjuster hole. This will often cause a cracked/broken clutch cover. Some yahoo did that with my 306A before I got it. Luckily, the tensioner screw bent and prevented a busted cover. I was even able to straighten the tensioner screw.:cool2:
Got the 202 running but,
New bar, chain and sprocket/drum. Adjust the chain so you can drag it around on the bench. Crank it up and run/cut with it for a bit and then the chain keeps spinning. Drop it on a log at idle and it will stop the engine. I checked and at rest there is .025" or more clearence between the clutch shoe surface and the drum. Swapped the clutch for another off a 306. Looked identical. Had same trouble.
Strange, as the drum spins fine when it is cold.
How long should the drum bearing inner race be. The one on there is .521". I was thinking it should be more like .532-562.
He do pull a 20" bar just fine.
Carl.
New bar, chain and sprocket/drum. Adjust the chain so you can drag it around on the bench. Crank it up and run/cut with it for a bit and then the chain keeps spinning. Drop it on a log at idle and it will stop the engine. I checked and at rest there is .025" or more clearence between the clutch shoe surface and the drum. Swapped the clutch for another off a 306. Looked identical. Had same trouble.
Strange, as the drum spins fine when it is cold.
How long should the drum bearing inner race be. The one on there is .521". I was thinking it should be more like .532-562.
He do pull a 20" bar just fine.
Carl.
Is it oiling, Carl? ...Not heating up and stopping?
Yup. And been working the thumb oiler also.
Has to be some issue with end clearence on the bearing.
Found an inner race in my stash a bit longer. .528" long. Will try that next or a spacer/washer on the clutch shoulder.
Seems like I had a similar problem with a 5200 a long time ago, but I had the spacers/washers inside the clutch drum in the wrong order or some such as that.
I put the large thin washer on the shaft first, then the inner race, bearing and sprocket/drum, then the smaller o.d. thick washer and then spin on the clutch.
I need to check and make sure the washers are flat and not cupped........................................ and no burrs.............................
Edit: Put the longest inner race (.05275") on him. Has more endplay on the sprocket/drum.
Try him in the morning.
Last edited:
From my feeble memory, it sounds like that should have been correct. Are you useing the 200 series/ early 306 4 shoe clutch with the double springs? Not that it should make a difference anyway...
If these are like the 306/245 clutches, there should also be a large (approx. 2" diameter) washer in the stack. It would be on the inside of the drum between the small washer and the clutch. It always has an image of the clutch worn into it.
If the clutch setup is identical like the 306A,then you are missing one more washer.The 306A has 3 washers,one goes straight on the shaft,the thick goes after the sprocket,then goes one large washer after the thick and last is the clutch.
Ah, my memory is coming back. Thats why I was asking what clutch he was using. The old style clutch dont use that big washer if I remember right. Most 200 series actually had a cover that threaded on outside of everything as well. Mixing and matching things is where the trouble comes from.
8 pin vs 7 pin rims
What do you guys think of running 8 pin 3/8 rims vs 7 pin rims on 75cc+ saws considering I'm only using 20 - 24 " bars?
Sounds like a really good idea to me. Any down side to this? I'm thinking of the 5200 and the Pioneer P51 (82CC)
What do you guys think of running 8 pin 3/8 rims vs 7 pin rims on 75cc+ saws considering I'm only using 20 - 24 " bars?
Sounds like a really good idea to me. Any down side to this? I'm thinking of the 5200 and the Pioneer P51 (82CC)
Thanks. That's why I qualified it to say "if it was like the 306/245." The 200 is a question mark to me. I don't thing I have an IPL for that one. Be better if we had pics to work from.
My question would be "Why?" unless you're in a race. I'm sure the saw will pull that on a shorter bar but I think you also increase the chance of collateral damage to the saw and maybe yourself if you throw a chain.
Here is the page from the 202 IPL.
Similar threads
