Nik's Poulan Thread

[Eccentric]

LOL, I guess I need to type faster, to beat Bob to the punch. Another popular bar for them was the Windsor made bars also. Model number or name escapes me now...brain fart. They look similar, but have a slightly larger bar slot. Them are the ones you need the hard to find S-clip for.


Gregg,

As Mark said after your post (and before mine here), the Windsor designation is UXL. Some were also marked TXL. They'll work on Homelites and Remingtions that take a D096/D196 bar too. My 306A has a UXL bar and an 'S' clip. I believe it's the original bar on the saw.

Well, from what ModifiedMark has stated the 5020 comes with a 3/8 pitch Oregon K041 bar mount. If you go 16 " I'm not sure you can get the K041 in a 3/8 pitch. Likely .325 pitch. I'm sure someone will elaborate if a 16" can come in a 3/8 pitch. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer, though I'll do a little research.

Bob

The K041's are available in .325 and 3/8". Most of the 3/8" K041's that I've seen are the "Intenz" type. There are several on feebay now.

Just throwing this out there.

My 4000 came with 18" 3/8 050 replaceable tip windsor with S clip. I sold it PHO and left the clip on it. The bar seems to be a D196 D096 maybe that had S clip? I could be wrong but thinking that. Great shape and I would trade it for a 16-20 3/8 050 D176 or D009.

I have a 16" 3/8-.050G sprocket nose NOS Oregon Pro Lite D176 mount bar that I'd trade you for that 18" Windsor UXL bar. Do you still have the loop of chain?

...You cannot swap the D276 Mac mount back to a Poulan D176 saw though as they had no oil holes in the 276 bar. The D176 mount has the oil holes for the Poulan but will oil through the adjuster holes when mounted on a Mac like the original 276 bar did...

Mark have you ever tried running a D276 mount bar on a Poulan that requires a K041? They both oil through the adjuster holes and have the same size bar slot. I'm going to try it on my PP330 and see how things work.

 

[Modifiedmark]

As Mark said after your post (and before mine here), the Windsor designation is UXL. Some were also marked TXL. They'll work on Homelites and Remingtions that take a D096/D196 bar too. My 306A has a UXL bar and an 'S' clip. I believe it's the original bar on the saw.







The K041's are available in .325 and 3/8". Most of the 3/8" K041's that I've seen are the "Intenz" type. There are several on feebay now.



I have a 16" 3/8-.050G sprocket nose NOS Oregon Pro Lite D176 mount bar that I'd trade you for that 18" Windsor UXL bar. Do you still have the loop of chain?



Mark have you ever tried running a D276 mount bar on a Poulan that requires a K041? They both oil through the adjuster holes and have the same size bar slot. I'm going to try it on my PP330 and see how things work.

It will work, I put a KO41 on a McCaluk 7-10 for Chris to add a little class to his saw. I dont promote the Mac bars mostly because there really obsolete and not just availible everyday.

 

[Eccentric]

Well I figured out why the top cover was melted on my PP330...

It's kinda hard to see in the pics..........but the muffler halves weren't assembled right. The front cover is supposed to fit within the rear can. The cover was not seated on the left side of the saw. You can see where leaking exhaust gasses had also burned/stained the paint on the crankcase. After I pulled the muffler to check the P/C (almost perfect) and see how choked up the muffler is (a MM is mandatory), it all fit together just fine. Wonder if it came that way from the factory. There's no evidence of anyone pulling the saw apart, but who knows?

I pulled the saw apart to get to the gas tank vent (prior owner said it was leaking fuel). The bronze vent plug is still in there..........................and I can't get the bastard out. Any suggestions? I uglied up the tank around that damn bronze thing trying to pick/pry it out........without success. I think I'll just drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out with a screw (then replace it with a new one). Seems like a waste, but the bronze plug is cheap. Managed to tear the end of the impulse line (nearest the cylinder), so I'll probably end up replaceing it. May just replace the intake boot while I'm in there, as I do NOT want to pull that tank off twice.

What's bugging me is that the fuel line looks to be a loose fit through the top of the tank. If THAT'S where it was really leaking (I was too dumb to put fuel in it to see where the leak was first) then I tore it down and am fighting with the vent plug for nothing (since I'm gonna replace that line). Oh well, it's good to get aquainted with the 'new' saw and get all that built up sawdust (dull chain........ moron owner) out. Will still replace the duckbill as once again........I don't wanna do this twice. Saw that both of the lower AV isolators are torn through in the center. Will replace those too....

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Just giving you guys a heads up what I have been up to in the back ground.

I'm getting ready to put a order together to purchase new poulan oem bars.

For the 330 16" 60DL 3/8 50 gauge same as Oregon powermatch. These $25.00. I have one of these I got years ago and have posted pics in plain black.

No 18".

20" 70DL 3/8 50 gauge, Oregon Intenz bar for $20.00 each.

OEM bar in a non-intenz with "Poulan", Poulan Pro", or "BadBoy" for $25.00 each.

22" OEM bars with "Poulan Pro", "BadBoy", or solid black for $22.00.

All of these bars are new. These prices do not include shipping to me or you.

I am doing this through one of my member's.

I am not selling I am just passing on info what they will cost you to order.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

It's kinda hard to see in the pics..........but the muffler halves weren't assembled right.

I've had 2 3750 like that but melt through the top. Seems people dont pay attention to keeping the muffler bolts tight and it happens.

 

[Eccentric]

It will work, I put a KO41 on a McCaluk 7-10 for Chris to add a little class to his saw. I dont promote the Mac bars mostly because there really obsolete and not just availible everyday.

LOL. Thanks a bunch for the info Mark. The D276 bars are obsolete, but there are still many on feebay. Also, Windsor TMX (basically their code for the D276 mount) are very common on the bay...........including NOS bars. It's always good to have options...................even if it means having the 'wrong' saw name on the bar (like the Redmaz/Zenoah bar on your Craftsman 3.7).

 

[Eccentric]

I've had 2 3750 like that but melt through the top. Seems people dont pay attention to keeping the muffler bolts tight and it happens.

The bolts were very tight on this one. My guess is that either this was a Monday/Friday saw and wasn't assembled right at the factory......................or the bolts vibrated loose and the owner (who has shown his ineptness with other things on this saw) didn't get it back together right.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

(who has shown his ineptness with other things on this saw) didn't get it back together right.

I think that has happened a time or 2. :msp_tongue: I've caught some myself.

 

[Showme]

It's kinda hard to see in the pics..........but the muffler halves weren't assembled right. The front cover is supposed to fit within the rear can. The cover was not seated on the left side of the saw. You can see where leaking exhaust gasses had also burned/stained the paint on the crankcase. After I pulled the muffler to check the P/C (almost perfect) and see how choked up the muffler is (a MM is mandatory), it all fit together just fine. Wonder if it came that way from the factory. There's no evidence of anyone pulling the saw apart, but who knows?

I pulled the saw apart to get to the gas tank vent (prior owner said it was leaking fuel). The bronze vent plug is still in there..........................and I can't get the bastard out. Any suggestions? I uglied up the tank around that damn bronze thing trying to pick/pry it out........without success. I think I'll just drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out with a screw (then replace it with a new one). Seems like a waste, but the bronze plug is cheap. Managed to tear the end of the impulse line (nearest the cylinder), so I'll probably end up replaceing it. May just replace the intake boot while I'm in there, as I do NOT want to pull that tank off twice.

What's bugging me is that the fuel line looks to be a loose fit through the top of the tank. If THAT'S where it was really leaking (I was too dumb to put fuel in it to see where the leak was first) then I tore it down and am fighting with the vent plug for nothing (since I'm gonna replace that line). Oh well, it's good to get aquainted with the 'new' saw and get all that built up sawdust (dull chain........ moron owner) out. Will still replace the duckbill as once again........I don't wanna do this twice. Saw that both of the lower AV isolators are torn through in the center. Will replace those too....

Bought one off eBay with a hole burnt in the top cover like that. Seller didn't picture it or disclose it to me until after he shipped. I told him I didn't like it so he traded me for another cover he had and made me a happy camper. They are available new for very cheap.

 

[3000 FPS]

I pulled the saw apart to get to the gas tank vent (prior owner said it was leaking fuel). The bronze vent plug is still in there..........................and I can't get the bastard out. Any suggestions? I uglied up the tank around that damn bronze thing trying to pick/pry it out........without success. I think I'll just drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out with a screw (then replace it with a new one). Seems like a waste, but the bronze plug is cheap. Managed to tear the end of the impulse line (nearest the cylinder), so I'll probably end up replaceing it. May just replace the intake boot while I'm in there, as I do NOT want to pull that tank off twice.

What's bugging me is that the fuel line looks to be a loose fit through the top of the tank. If THAT'S where it was really leaking (I was too dumb to put fuel in it to see where the leak was first) then I tore it down and am fighting with the vent plug for nothing (since I'm gonna replace that line). Oh well, it's good to get aquainted with the 'new' saw and get all that built up sawdust (dull chain........ moron owner) out. Will still replace the duckbill as once again........I don't wanna do this twice. Saw that both of the lower AV isolators are torn through in the center. Will replace those too....

Every thing else looks good on the saw. It should be a really nice saw when you are finished with it. Alittle muffler mod to make run better, nice.

 

[Eccentric]

Bought one off eBay with a hole burnt in the top cover like that. Seller didn't picture it or disclose it to me until after he shipped. I told him I didn't like it so he traded me for another cover he had and made me a happy camper. They are available new for very cheap.

Yep. Found a cover for $6.64 plus shipping. The purple version for the TA Bad Boys is only $4.75! Funny that the purple AF cover (called a "carb cover assembly") is the same cost in black or purple.

Every thing else looks good on the saw. It should be a really nice saw when you are finished with it. Alittle muffler mod to make run better, nice.

Thanks. It does look pretty cherry overall. Will replace the impulse line, two bottom AV isolators, vent duckbill (and the damn bronze plug if I ruin it), fuel line, fuel filter, and probably the intake boot. Haven't decided whether the little hole in the top cover is going to bug me enough to replace it. Will probably replace the cover so long as it doesn't bump the shipping cost up too much. Going to run a 20" B/C as well. Haven't decided whether I'm going to keep the 22" bar or trade it off.

 

[redunshee]

That model of saw used a D176, JJ. Worth throwing out there that the mid sized Echo's and some Redmax saws used the D176.

For sure. Have a 452 and 660 that use the D176.

 

[fastLeo151]

Just giving you guys a heads up what I have been up to in the back ground.

I'm getting ready to put a order together to purchase new poulan oem bars.

For the 330 16" 60DL 3/8 50 gauge same as Oregon powermatch. These $25.00. I have one of these I got years ago and have posted pics in plain black.

No 18".

20" 70DL 3/8 50 gauge, Oregon Intenz bar for $20.00 each.

OEM bar in a non-intenz with "Poulan", Poulan Pro", or "BadBoy" for $25.00 each.

22" OEM bars with "Poulan Pro", "BadBoy", or solid black for $22.00.

All of these bars are new. These prices do not include shipping to me or you.

I am doing this through one of my member's.

I am not selling I am just passing on info what they will cost you to order.

Please keep me updated I will be glad to order some.

 

[fossil]

Thanks. It does look pretty cherry overall. Will replace the impulse line, two bottom AV isolators, vent duckbill (and the damn bronze plug if I ruin it), fuel line, fuel filter, and probably the intake boot. Haven't decided whether the little hole in the top cover is bronze plugto run a 20" B/C as well. Haven't decided whether I'm going to keep the 22" bar or trade it off.

Ah, decisions, decisions. We all love to make decisions like that (except for the damned bronze plug).

 

[Modifiedmark]

LOL. Thanks a bunch for the info Mark. The D276 bars are obsolete, but there are still many on feebay. Also, Windsor TMX (basically their code for the D276 mount) are very common on the bay...........including NOS bars. It's always good to have options...................even if it means having the 'wrong' saw name on the bar (like the Redmaz/Zenoah bar on your Craftsman 3.7).

Yep the name on the bar means little to me at all. Whatever works I say.

You got lucky when you tore up your impulse line, those needed replaced from the factory if you ask me.

Those fuel lines shrink up from ethanol exposure and leak for sure, replace them with a good Oregon or at least genuine Tygon line.

I think I used 1/8 x 3/16 lines on those but not sure as I remember the 330 carb had a bigger inlet barb on them then did the others like the 305 335 and 365.

The bronze plug...... Yep you need to drill it out and pull it with a screw, like you say there cheap! Dont dig around on it any more and please post a picture of whats under that plug will you?

 

[Modifiedmark]

The K041's are available in .325 and 3/8". Most of the 3/8" K041's that I've seen are the "Intenz" type. There are several on feebay now.

Forgot to address this, yes your correct on K041's being availiable in 3/8's but there only in 20 and 22" laminated bars at this time.

This is my only real gripe on these saws and that is the bar mount they chose to use on them.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Forgot to address this, yes your correct on K041's being availiable in 3/8's but there only in 20 and 22" laminated bars at this time.

This is my only real gripe on these saws and that is the bar mount they chose to use on them.

For the 330 16" 60DL 3/8 50 gauge same as Oregon powermatch. These $25.00. I have one of these I got years ago and have posted pics in plain black. I would have to check but I dont think it is solid like a powermatch like he says. I got 1 so I will look.

No 18".

20" 70DL 3/8 50 gauge, Oregon Intenz bar for $20.00 each.

20" OEM bar in a non-intenz with "Poulan", Poulan Pro", or "BadBoy" for $25.00 each.

22" OEM bars with "Poulan Pro", "BadBoy", or solid black for $22.00.

 

[Modifiedmark]

For the 330 16" 60DL 3/8 50 gauge same as Oregon powermatch. These $25.00. I have one of these I got years ago and have posted pics in plain black. I would have to check but I dont think it is solid like a powermatch like he says. I got 1 so I will look.

No 18".

20" 70DL 3/8 50 gauge, Oregon Intenz bar for $20.00 each.

20" OEM bar in a non-intenz with "Poulan", Poulan Pro", or "BadBoy" for $25.00 each.

22" OEM bars with "Poulan Pro", "BadBoy", or solid black for $22.00.

Kevin, dont misunderstand me, I'm only saying what they make that you can buy today, not what was made years ago. They did indeed make K041 16 and 20's for sure in a Power match type bar and might have made 18's as well.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

It's kinda hard to see in the pics..........but the muffler halves weren't assembled right. The front cover is supposed to fit within the rear can. The cover was not seated on the left side of the saw. You can see where leaking exhaust gasses had also burned/stained the paint on the crankcase. After I pulled the muffler to check the P/C (almost perfect) and see how choked up the muffler is (a MM is mandatory), it all fit together just fine. Wonder if it came that way from the factory. There's no evidence of anyone pulling the saw apart, but who knows?

I pulled the saw apart to get to the gas tank vent (prior owner said it was leaking fuel). The bronze vent plug is still in there..........................and I can't get the bastard out. Any suggestions? I uglied up the tank around that damn bronze thing trying to pick/pry it out........without success. I think I'll just drill a hole in the center of it and pull it out with a screw (then replace it with a new one). Seems like a waste, but the bronze plug is cheap. Managed to tear the end of the impulse line (nearest the cylinder), so I'll probably end up replaceing it. May just replace the intake boot while I'm in there, as I do NOT want to pull that tank off twice.

What's bugging me is that the fuel line looks to be a loose fit through the top of the tank. If THAT'S where it was really leaking (I was too dumb to put fuel in it to see where the leak was first) then I tore it down and am fighting with the vent plug for nothing (since I'm gonna replace that line). Oh well, it's good to get aquainted with the 'new' saw and get all that built up sawdust (dull chain........ moron owner) out. Will still replace the duckbill as once again........I don't wanna do this twice. Saw that both of the lower AV isolators are torn through in the center. Will replace those too....

I have seen three of the 330's have a hole in the same spot as yours. Was that hole there when you got it?

 

[Eccentric]

Yep the name on the bar means little to me at all. Whatever works I say.

You got lucky when you tore up your impulse line, those needed replaced from the factory if you ask me.

Those fuel lines shrink up from ethanol exposure and leak for sure, replace them with a good Oregon or at least genuine Tygon line.

I think I used 1/8 x 3/16 lines on those but not sure as I remember the 330 carb had a bigger inlet barb on them then did the others like the 305 335 and 365.

The bronze plug...... Yep you need to drill it out and pull it with a screw, like you say there cheap! Dont dig around on it any more and please post a picture of whats under that plug will you?

I didn't ugly it up too bad, as I was afraid of ruining the tank. I tried to pull it without drilling it first as I have a duckbill handy and could have gotten it back together right then. Now I'll have to order the bronze plug, unless the local Husky dealer has one. Turns out I've gotta order AV isolators anyways. I doubt the dealer will have those in stock...

Will drill and pull the bronze plug and shoot a pic of what's inside. I'm expecting a mess of a melted duckbill.

Will replace the fuel line with Tygon for now as that's what's local. Planning to order a buncha Oregon 30% rated stuff and swapping all my saws over. The stock line looks like it was 1/8ID-3/16OD.

Will measure the barbs for the impulse line and replace it with good automotive rubber vacuum line like I usually do. I agree about the stock stuff being crap too. I wasn't rough at all with that line and it tore....

Kevin, dont misunderstand me, I'm only saying what they make that you can buy today, not what was made years ago. They did indeed make K041 16 and 20's for sure in a Power match type bar and might have made 18's as well.

I've seen 16", 18", 20", and 22" K041 bars on feebay. Most of the non-Intenz bars there are .325 pitch, with most of the 3/8 pitch bars being Intenz. All laminates as you said Mark.

I have seen three of the 330's have a hole in the same spot as yours. Was that hole there when you got it?

Yep. That's how it was when I got it. I haven't ran it yet. That hole was actually a raised up 'wart' where the plastic had melted and stretched away from the muffler. Here's a pic of said 'wart'.

Here's a pic of the 'wart' that I shot right after I brought the saw home. I've since cut it flush. May just replace the cover since it's cheap and I'm going to be paying for shipping other parts anyways...