Nik's Poulan Thread

[a. palmer jr.]

You're saying to use a sliver of a penny instead of filing the woodruff key, the penny being thinner than the key ? Makes sense assuming I don't have an issue with the penny falling out as I replace the flywheel. I guess if its at the 12 o'clock position it should stay still. The use of a stop watch though has me wondering what you are referencing. Dummy! You're referring to timed cuts, correct?
Bob

Bob, you don't want to file the part that sticks down in the crank, just the part that sticks out. That way it will still stick in the crank like it's supposed to and you'll still get your advance. Just mark it while it's in the shaft with a marker pen and pull it out and file it off where the mark was. Much better than a penny loose in there I would think.

 

[diggers_dad]

There you go again, just because its heavy for you dont mean its heavy for its displacement. When figuring it in its time frame for production it was actually a lightweight.

Even compared to modern 5 CI saws its in the ball park for weight.

Very correct Mark...the MS660 is roughly 16.5lbs which would have made the MS650 the same 16.5lbs at 85cc. The husky 390 which means the 385 also is 15.65lbs. The big countervibes were 16.#lbs which is very good considering they are a design that has been around for longer than both the other brands models put together. And the torque of the big countervibes is in a class of its own IMO.

I never said it was heavy for its displacement. Just that it is heavy. I might say a 4200 is heavy for its displacement but I probably wouldn't.

I would just describe it as heavy also. I used a 4200 that is a "smaller" saw of the same weight for 28 years starting when I was a little over 30 years old.

Speaking only for myself here, but that Craftsman 5.2 is heavy. It's wearing a 24" b/c and will have to come in at around 18+ pounds with fuel, oil, crud, and so forth. I'm 5' 11", 230 pounds and not afraid of work, but I'd have a healthy respect for that saw if I had to use it any length of time.

Would I use it on "big" wood where I could let it sit and dig in using its own weight? Sure. Limb with it? NO!

I'm used to much lighter saws and running a tank through that thing would be the end of my shoulders, not to mention my back.

Now, as to whether or not its heavy for an 85 cc saw --> Dunno. It's the only one I've ever held. It does have a VERY NICE feel to it, despite the weight. It seems to have a good balance and maybe the guys at Poulan spent some time getting the controls and handles "just right" 'cause it seems like it would be very controllable.

Ah, crap. I can't afford to start collecting old Poulans. :bang: I do NOT like this saw. :bang: I do NOT like this saw. I do NOT need more old Poulans. I should sell this saw.

Crap. It does feel really nice...:help:

 

[rms61moparman]

Bob, you don't want to file the part that sticks down in the crank, just the part that sticks out. That way it will still stick in the crank like it's supposed to and you'll still get your advance. Just mark it while it's in the shaft with a marker pen and pull it out and file it off where the mark was. Much better than a penny loose in there I would think.

The penny won't be loose in there.
You will tighten it up when you rotate the flywheel counterclockwise just before you torque the flywheel nut back down.
The key doesn't hold the flywheel tight on the shaft, the taper does that when you tighten it down.
The key just indexes it for timing which we want to advance.


Mike

 

[dboyd351]

The penny won't be loose in there.
You will tighten it up when you rotate the flywheel counterclockwise just before you torque the flywheel nut back down.
The key doesn't hold the flywheel tight on the shaft, the taper does that when you tighten it down.
The key just indexes it for timing which we want to advance.


Mike

Very clear explanation, Mike.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The penny won't be loose in there.
You will tighten it up when you rotate the flywheel counterclockwise just before you torque the flywheel nut back down.
The key doesn't hold the flywheel tight on the shaft, the taper does that when you tighten it down.
The key just indexes it for timing which we want to advance.


Mike

I wonder if it would be just as good to slot the ignition coil holes as to mess with the flywheel, I've seen some coils that had room to advance several degrees but I don't know about Bob's particular one. As with any mods it's a compromise and just like taking a pill, it can have side effects.

 

[diggers_dad]

I wonder if it would be just as good to slot the ignition coil holes as to mess with the flywheel, I've seen some coils that had room to advance several degrees but I don't know about Bob's particular one. As with any mods it's a compromise and just like taking a pill, it can have side effects.

I've wondered the same thing myself. Seems like it would be easier and faster if that were an option. opcorn:

 

[Warped5]

Put that reed valve torque monster in hardwood with a sharp chain on it and you will be "hooked". Don't say I didn't warn you.:hmm3grin2orange:

:agree2: :agree2: :agree2: :agree2: :agree2:

 

[rms61moparman]

I wonder if it would be just as good to slot the ignition coil holes as to mess with the flywheel, I've seen some coils that had room to advance several degrees but I don't know about Bob's particular one. As with any mods it's a compromise and just like taking a pill, it can have side effects.

If this were a 350 Husky where the coils are plentiful and cheap, I would say that could be an option for some.
Personally, I would rather not disfigure a coil when I have a simple, completely reversible option available................................................but that's just me.


Mike

 

[67 Mustang]

If this were a 350 Husky where the coils are plentiful and cheap, I would say that could be an option for some.
Personally, I would rather not disfigure a coil when I have a simple, completely reversible option available................................................but that's just me.


Mike

:agree2:

 

[8433jeff]

I wonder if it would be just as good to slot the ignition coil holes as to mess with the flywheel, I've seen some coils that had room to advance several degrees but I don't know about Bob's particular one. As with any mods it's a compromise and just like taking a pill, it can have side effects.

The usual side effect is that most saws like it. Its not like its rocket science. As stated earlier, if you go too far, it will kick back on start up.

File the key, use a penny, or a line with nothing in the slot. Half a slot should be about 4-6 degrees advance. Most engines are vacuum advanced; therefore retarded at start. With small engines, its a compromise, knowing you don't need every ounce of power or max efficiency from them.

Well, everyone except those who are on the AS site anyways.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

When advancing and coil swap in 3120 you toss the key altogether and run it. Dont need a key.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've wondered the same thing myself. Seems like it would be easier and faster if that were an option. opcorn:

Nothing wrong with it, as long as the coil has enough area to file on. Just go in the opposite direction the flywheel turns.

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I never said it was heavy for its displacement. Just that it is heavy. I might say a 4200 is heavy for its displacement but I probably wouldn't.

I would just describe it as heavy also. I used a 4200 that is a "smaller" saw of the same weight for 28 years starting when I was a little over 30 years old.

I would not describe its weight as anything but heavy especially with the 24 inch B&C that came with it. That did not stop me
from filling my 69 Ford camper special with overload springs and cab high stake racks with red oak stacked 1 foot above the cab in the
center every time I used it.

I am sure I would describe a new saw of the same size as heavy also, so yes, there I go again, I am consistant. For the most part saws of that size strike me as being heavy.
I used mine as a firewood saw, perhaps not the best use of a saw that weighs 16 1/2 pounds without a bar and chain, I think with full tanks and 24 inch bar and chain it would be closer
to 21 pounds. As a homeowner/firewood whore I found it to be heavy. I do own saws that weigh a lot more but I have never worked with them for a full day in the woods.
And I never will.

I totally understand what you are saying...they are not light. The big countervibes were not intended or invented to be a limbing or climbing saw. They S25DA and others were made for that type of work. The big ones were made to lay on and eat the big wood. This is why I am a 2 or 3 saw plan guy (per day):hmm3grin2orange:

 

[redunshee]

Bob, you don't want to file the part that sticks down in the crank, just the part that sticks out. That way it will still stick in the crank like it's supposed to and you'll still get your advance. Just mark it while it's in the shaft with a marker pen and pull it out and file it off where the mark was. Much better than a penny loose in there I would think.

That was my plan to file the part outside the crank. GUess I'll file 1/4 of it and see what happens, then go from there.
Bob

 

[redunshee]

Very clear explanation, Mike.

Yup. I like it. That being said, if the woodruff key is only for indexing the timing, why not remove it and advance it that way? Only issue would be to be sure the crank didn't move when you tightened it. Right?
Bob

 

[rms61moparman]

Yup. I like it. That being said, if the woodruff key is only for indexing the timing, why not remove it and advance it that way? Only issue would be to be sure the crank didn't move when you tightened it. Right?
Bob

That's correct.
I just use the penny to keep it from moving before it gets tight.


Mike

 

[redunshee]

That's correct.
I just use the penny to keep it from moving before it gets tight.


Mike

Gotcha Mike. I have new issues though before I get to the timing. I pulled cylinder cause I thought I saw some scoring. Wasn't very bad but when I checked comp after reinstalling the cylinder it now reads 120 instead of 135 before I farted with it. Will try to run it a bit this afternoon and check again. Not sure what happened.

Bob

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Gotcha Mike. I have new issues though before I get to the timing. I pulled cylinder cause I thought I saw some scoring. Wasn't very bad but when I checked comp after reinstalling the cylinder it now reads 120 instead of 135 before I farted with it. Will try to run it a bit this afternoon and check again. Not sure what happened.

Bob

 

[cmarti]

Throwing my craftsman together, and I am out of the Yamabond I used on my Grizzly rebuild. Nothing but RTV in the Autopart stores and 45 minutes to Yamaha dealer
Will Permatex 2 work? Thanks.

 

[OhioGregg]

Throwing my craftsman together, and I am out of the Yamabond I used on my Grizzly rebuild. Nothing but RTV in the Autopart stores and 45 minutes to Yamaha dealer
Will Permatex 2 work? Thanks.

I kinda doubt it, but thats just my guess. They have so many, it gets confusing. I been using Permatex MotoSeal No.1 Ultimate Grey. Seems to work good. Might be able to find it at some auto parts places. I bought mine online, last time I was at NAPA, the particular store didn't have it. (small town store)

Gregg,