I vote the seals too.Similar issues had with the 4200.Cold it was working perfect.After a couple of cuts it didn't falling to idle imidiately after WOT and revving on one side.The clutch side seal had punctured the lip(someone attempted to replace the seal but with not much luck).
Nik's Poulan Thread
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I vote the seals too.Similar issues had with the 4200.Cold it was working perfect.After a couple of cuts it didn't falling to idle imidiately after WOT and revving on one side.The clutch side seal had punctured the lip(someone attempted to replace the seal but with not much luck).
Even if you could I sure would regret driving the seals to the bottom if I had to try pick them out next time around.
The beer can adaptor my be difficult to cut. You had better empty several beer cans.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
you see alot of indistial machinery with the cases machined alot deeper than the thikness of the seal. one of the good things about this is you can press the seal slightly deeper if the shaft has been worn by it. you'd be suprised at the groove a rubber seal can wear into a crank.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just My Luck !!!!
Need some ideas. Recently sold a 3400 and in doing a final run I noticed that there is no oil spinning off the end of the bar. I'm uncomfortable shipping it as is so I replaced the oil pump and there is the same issue. Manual oil spits it off the bar , however. I ran the saw w/o a bar to see if oil dripped from the saw and there is very little. There seems to be some but not very much. Diaphragm looks okay and I wonder if this is the problem. Are there any other things I should look at?
Bob
Need some ideas. Recently sold a 3400 and in doing a final run I noticed that there is no oil spinning off the end of the bar. I'm uncomfortable shipping it as is so I replaced the oil pump and there is the same issue. Manual oil spits it off the bar , however. I ran the saw w/o a bar to see if oil dripped from the saw and there is very little. There seems to be some but not very much. Diaphragm looks okay and I wonder if this is the problem. Are there any other things I should look at?
Bob
Bob,
Did you check the impulse hole to the crankcase to make sure there isn't something causing a blockage? If you didn't change the pickup hose and filter when you swapped pumps there may be a restriction there. The manual oiler can overpower some blockage but the impulse pump is pretty weak. I'm not sure how cold it is where you are now but if the saw was left out overnight the oil could be pretty thick as well if it was cold.
Just grasping at straws on this one. If you find a source for pump diaphragms, please let me know.
Tim
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Tim, I did change the pickup line and filter and they were clear. May have to pull pump and check the impulse hole for a blockage. Guess I can blow a little compressed air into it w/o any issues. No its warm here amd oil thickness isn't an issue. I only have one new diaphragm and I hate to use it on this saw. Haven't found a new source as everwhere I've checked show it NLA.
Bob
I think I saw that one on ebay. Looked like a really nice saw. Sometimes the oil is a bit thick to flow well..you might try some 20w motor oil for awhile instead of bar oil. Sometimes I flush out the oil system, helps some. All the 3400 or 3.7 saws I've had oiled really well.
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I would love to be able to find some material to make some diaphragms but I can't locate any. Let us know how you make out.
I had a similar issue, and through advice here, went to 1 qt kerosene to 3 qts bar oil. It oiled this past weekend at 3/4 tank of oil to a tank of fuel. I found diphragm material here and will try it on future NLA stuff if needed.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr
Don't blow a bunch of high pressure air into that pump, you could damage the check valves that way.
Make sure the hole in the pump housing that the pintle rides in is free and clear. The service manual shows how to clean it out with the proper size drill bit.
not enough pictures....one of these is bigger than the other...
I think I seen the orange one squirm and move just a hair in that pic. :msp_wink::hmm3grin2orange:
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
which did you order for the oil pump? anyone built a carb diaphragm using this stuff?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well I got it oiling Mark. After checking that everything was clear I broke down and used my last diaphragm. I have 8 old pumps and all the diaphragms were very stiff so I couldn't use any of them. Hated to use my last one but I couldn't in good conscience sell it as it was. Especially since it went for double what i bought it for and had into it. Really only expected to get $75-$80. Now I need to find some new diaphragms, a means to make some, or find a way to soften the ones I have.
Bob
Thanks to all for their suggestions.
jasper89
ArboristSite Operative
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
I ordered the high strength buna nitrile in 3/32 as that is what a buddy used for a fuel NLA fuel pump on a tractor he was restoring. Someone else thought I should have got the fabric reinforced buna. NOTE: I have not cut or used a diaphragm yet, I just went with the cut bar oil suggestion first and it worked.
McMaster-Carr
I was also offered advice to cut the diphragm from material in a current tractor/vehicle fuel or oil pump. I will have to experiment if I intend to keep playing with older saws.
I looked at their selection and there aren't many materials that may be suitable for use in oil at the correct thickness. I checked one diaphragm and came up with around .017". I see they have some polyurethane in different durometers at a thickness of .020. That may work. The diaphragms used in fuel pumps for cars, tractors etc are accuated by a mechanical lever running off a cam lobe so thickness and durometer are not such an issue.
I think the issue I'm going to have is that they were not shipping to Canada a while back.
Thanks for the link.
ChainLightning
Vintage Saw Stalker
My 3400
Just got her running smooth after a good cleaning and a quick dial in. [video=youtube;c95HN7d_s6w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c95HN7d_s6w&feature=youtu.be[/video]
Just got her running smooth after a good cleaning and a quick dial in. [video=youtube;c95HN7d_s6w]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c95HN7d_s6w&feature=youtu.be[/video]
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
A guy would have to spend one HELL of a lot of money to get a saw that runs and cuts better than that!!!
Mike
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