Nik's Poulan Thread

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Modifiedmark
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I notice the gasket between the reed block and the adaptor appears to be rubber.
I'm going to try a thin piece of neoprene (0.020) and see if that does the trick
All is good vacuum wise from the top of the adaptor using a piece of inner tube to block it off.

I really hate to tie this saw up as it as been great to cut up some firewood. I think it is lighter than the 5200 just by the fact that it has one less label on it.

There should be no use of rubber for gaskets there. Plain automotive gasket material should be used.
 
machinisttx

machinisttx

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Isn't so much the wheel getting loose as the wheel coming apart. It happens, and usually without much warning. It makes for a bad day.

Always wear eye protection. I have never worn a mask, at least not while sharping a chain.

Ran across this and since I'm a machinist by trade I can't help but try to drive home the point about wheels coming apart being a bad day. A fellow I used to work with had a nasty scar up most of of one of his forearms and partially up his bicep. There was another on his neck, right about where the jugular vein is. One night everyone was sitting around trading stories on break and it turned out that a grinding wheel had exploded on him. Part of the wheel rolled it's way up his arm and tore into his neck. The doc told him that it missed his jugular by about a millimeter.

Any time you're going to mount a wheel on a grinder, ring test it first. Put a pencil through the arbor hole, hold the wheel up via the pencil, and tap the wheel near the edge with a screwdriver handle, wooden hammer handle, etc.. You should hear a clear ringing sound from the wheel, almost like hitting a tuning fork. If you hear a "thunk" instead of the ring, break the wheel with a hammer(or concrete floor) and throw it in the trash. That sound means it's cracked or otherwise defective and liable to come apart when running.
 
OhioGregg

OhioGregg

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Shoot, I just realised, I remember seeing that commericial on TV when it first came out and I feel older now......

Yup, My high school washed their hands of me in 1972. :laugh: So I remember them adds well.
In the summer of 1978, I ordered new from the factory, my only non Ford vehicle I ever owned, a 1979 Jeep CJ5. Still hadn't bought a Poulan saw, but those adds had me leaning that way. :D

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Modifiedmark
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I graduated HS the same year Poulan introduced the ground breaking at the time Micro XXV, 1977.

About 2 years before I started working at the AC and Poulan dealership.

There were some other commercials around that time frame from Poulan as well, but I can't remember them off hand.

That time frame was good for Poulan as they were putting out some good stuff that was laying the ground work for better things coming.
 
Kostas

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I notice the gasket between the reed block and the adaptor appears to be rubber.
I'm going to try a thin piece of neoprene (0.020) and see if that does the trick
All is good vacuum wise from the top of the adaptor using a piece of inner tube to block it off.

I really hate to tie this saw up as it as been great to cut up some firewood. I think it is lighter than the 5200 just by the fact that it has one less label on it.

As far i can tell from my 4200,i don't think that this gasket is rubber.You are speaking about the gasket which is between the reed block and the plastic carb adapter,right Tim?
 
fossil
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As far i can tell from my 4200,i don't think that this gasket is rubber.You are speaking about the gasket which is between the reed block and the plastic carb adapter,right Tim?

Yes. It just doesn't look or feel like a paper gasket. It is working well so I don't want to peel it off.
I think I'll make an adaptor to carb gasket and leave the venturi hole unpunched to see if I can get a good seal. If I do, I'll punch out the venturi hole.
 

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