Nik's Poulan Thread

[nthums1]

Went to the flea market today and found this lonely 3300 sitting with some lawn mowers. Well you know the rest of the story...

I knew it was in good shape and it started and run fine even with some really nasty smelling old fuel in it.

Got it home and gave it a good clean up, a new fuel line and a filter. Changed out the crappy saftey chain for a good 20LP chain and it runs and cuts like a champ.

Clean looking saw. Looks even cleaner than my not very used 3500.
In the first picture, note the alignment of muffler half, gasket, and exhaust port. This is what I noted on mine and got a new exhaust gasket that did the same thing, same as the oe. In the kit are three exhaust gaskets and one of those lined up perfectly with the exhaust port. It also had the correct bolt hole diameter. The muffler on mine also has the square cutout. I used that new one because I did not have to worry about it shifting because of bolt diameter and it catching the exhaust flow.

 

[redunshee]

Anxious for the video myself!!!:

In addition to carb, looks like cylinder is modded, or is it a differant one? Carb with impulse line going to cylinder. Definitely not stock 3400 cylinder.

 

[Grande Dog]

Needed a bar and chain combo for my new Canadian Poulan 3000. Baileys didn't have a 16" .325 bar so I called and they said the Arbormax AML 16 SJ58 would fit. Well, it fits but I don't believe the oil holes line up with the saws output hole. Very little, if no oil gets onto chain. I compared bars to an Oregon bar(A041 mount) that fits my 3000 and immediately noticed that the Oregon bar is oiled thru the chain adjustment holes. I probably should have gone 3/8 and I wouldn't have had this problem as the Arbormax is available in this pitch. Any suggestions . Do you think I can modify the oiler holes? This confirms the adage that "You get what you pay for".
Bob

Howdy,
Sorry for the confusion. Webgal is fixing the application. We would certainly refund, or credit you towards a bar that'll work for your application.
Regards
Gregg

 

[sefh3]

brokenbudget~ How in the world are you going to adjust that carb when you get it all buttoned up? Both needles are pointing down????

 

[rms61moparman]

brokenbudget~ How in the world are you going to adjust that carb when you get it all buttoned up? Both needles are pointing down????

Curved screwdriver!


Mike

 

[Modifiedmark]

Curved screwdriver!


Mike

You mean the ones they make in Kentucky?

 

[redunshee]

Howdy,
Sorry for the confusion. Webgal is fixing the application. We would certainly refund, or credit you towards a bar that'll work for your application.
Regards
Gregg

You're a good man Gregg, but I modified the bar. Thanks for the offer, though.

 

[joe25DA]

Nice work on that 3300 Mark. I like that series as well. My craftsman 2.8 is a nice lightweight, fast saw. Im looking for a 3300 next.

 

[rms61moparman]

You mean the ones they make in Kentucky?

We have a few, but I don't think we hold a monopoly on them!!!



Mike

 

[FATGUY]

You mean the ones they make in Kentucky?

We have a few, but I don't think we hold a monopoly on them!!!



Mike

:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

 

[FATGUY]

Hi Mikey!!

 

[Modifiedmark]

We have a few, but I don't think we hold a monopoly on them!!!



Mike

Those would be the ones I forgot about and slammed the hood down on.

 

[rms61moparman]

Hi Nik!!!!

Yes Mark, those would be the ones.LOL

Mike

 

[blsnelling]

I took the Dayton back apart tonight. The auto oiler pumps good when pushing the plunger in by hand. So I cleaned, relubed, and put it all back together. I looks to be working fine. I have not yet cut with it though. The part I wasn't realizing, is that the the center steel spacer is a cam, and walks the bronze gear around slowly. Now it makes sens how it works. Thanks a ton for everyone's help. I do appreciate it.

 

[Modifiedmark]

I knew you would get it figured out its really simple once you get a handle on it. Quite a ingenious setup really for 1970's.

 

[rms61moparman]

I took the Dayton back apart tonight. The auto oiler pumps good when pushing the plunger in by hand. So I cleaned, relubed, and put it all back together. I looks to be working fine. I have not yet cut with it though. The part I wasn't realizing, is that the the center steel spacer is a cam, and walks the bronze gear around slowly. Now it makes sens how it works. Thanks a ton for everyone's help. I do appreciate it.

Glad to hear that it came together for you Brad!

NORMALLY,
the oilers on those saws are about as rock solid as it gets.


Mike

 

[nthums1]

I knew you would get it figured out .......

Did you ever get a definite location on the vent for that 3300? I hate to tear my 3500 in half to just check if it is hidden.
I would guess that you also have that cleanable micro-filter. I pulled the cover off mine this morning and there is a lot of sawdust in the carb compartment. I pulled the filter and found traces of fine dust on the inside. Hmmm. I would think that is not good. I really don't want any of it going through the engine as it seems it could be a likely source of carbon buildup, probably around the ring. Any suggestions?

I think I will split the filter, ie remove the screw holding it together, and put some sealer along the edges where the two pieces come together.

 

[jnl502]

here is my other one. craftsman 4.2/24" this one makes the other look very worn. all i did is put the bar and chain on it and retuned it, don't think it had been run in a while.

anyone got any interest in my poulan 4200 before i put it in the treaed post and/or swap meet. thought i would give you all first glance at it. it runs but needs a carb kit badly. i think it has a 20" bar and chain. they are in good shape. the nut on the top cover is just a regular nut. don't think it is stock

 

[partsman51]

Try this one.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+28006&catID=10646

Okay, thanks a lot for the info, found a Stihl Dealer here that will bring it in for me, $11.75CDN plus $7.00CDN for shipping, so may buy two just to have a spare, as the one site says every three chains the sprocket should be replaced and I have had this saw since the 70's and never really looked at it till now and it is worn out.
Now how hard is it to get these off and what is the procedure, how are they attached?
Any pics of one dissasembled to show me how they are made, I have to see about getting mine off as the dealer is going to see what the dimensions of this sprocket 28006 is.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Did you ever get a definite location on the vent for that 3300? I hate to tear my 3500 in half to just check if it is hidden.
I would guess that you also have that cleanable micro-filter. I pulled the cover off mine this morning and there is a lot of sawdust in the carb compartment. I pulled the filter and found traces of fine dust on the inside. Hmmm. I would think that is not good. I really don't want any of it going through the engine as it seems it could be a likely source of carbon buildup, probably around the ring. Any suggestions?

I think I will split the filter, ie remove the screw holding it together, and put some sealer along the edges where the two pieces come together.

No I didnt look anymore, but since I dont have any other, later IPLs I'm betting its in the handle like that later PP330.

here is my other one. craftsman 4.2/24" this one makes the other look very worn. all i did is put the bar and chain on it and retuned it, don't think it had been run in a while.

Rock ON that is nice.