AlexTheGrater
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Nik's Poulan Thread
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On a S25DA auto oiler diaphragm and gasket, which goes on first?, as the 25, 25DA, & S25CV IPLs have it both ways...or does it matter? This is the first S25 I've worked on, so still learning.
Just spent an afternoon going completely through this little saw, and it about kicked my azz during pressure testing. New seals, gaskets, then a cylinder stud leaking at the bottom/backside of the case, but I still couldn't stop the gauge needle in its tracks. I never could locate the small leak, I guess I should have bubble checked the oiler fill cap, in case the crankcase gasket is leaking internally. I checked the outside seam of the case and cylinder flange, they were fine. The saw idles and cuts great for its size.
The 2 bolt carb flange up top has through holes into the carb box & into the crankcase, so those test flange bolts kept seeping.
The auto oiler is impulse driven, but that should be isolated from the crankcase, correct?
Any comments or tips from past S25 testing would be welcomed!
Just spent an afternoon going completely through this little saw, and it about kicked my azz during pressure testing. New seals, gaskets, then a cylinder stud leaking at the bottom/backside of the case, but I still couldn't stop the gauge needle in its tracks. I never could locate the small leak, I guess I should have bubble checked the oiler fill cap, in case the crankcase gasket is leaking internally. I checked the outside seam of the case and cylinder flange, they were fine. The saw idles and cuts great for its size.
The 2 bolt carb flange up top has through holes into the carb box & into the crankcase, so those test flange bolts kept seeping.
The auto oiler is impulse driven, but that should be isolated from the crankcase, correct?
Any comments or tips from past S25 testing would be welcomed!
The oiler gasket goes against the oiler housing if I remember right. If you want to pressure test it, you really need to remove the oiler and block of the impulse hole in the crankcase, just like you need to on a 3400.
Thanks Mark, I'm headed to the plant in the morning to make a big triangle plate for "top cover off" testing & will pull the oil pump this time. I'll be able to leak test the little cotter pin vent for the oil tank, otherwise the thing's hidden. I put the oiler diaphragm on first, so will flip that around too.
jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
Mark, Glad to see you back. Your knowledge sure was missed.
21 years on the av's before given it up. Not bad at all. All new av's, intake boot, impulse line, etc installed today finally.
Feels good being able to give back alittle to dad.
Feels good being able to give back alittle to dad.
Got to love that pull handle.
It's actually a towing handle
Actually I think it shows why the decomps on smaller saws and the easy start starters are getting more common. We laugh now but we will be there soon enough.
Dad is in mid 70's with hand problems now. The teeny tiny oem handle ( the one that fits 2 fingers) was hurting his hand and fingers. I told him I had a handle to try from my racing days.
Handle is used on Stihl 460 rescue saws and is the most comfortable handle in D-rings IMO. I used to buy them 5-6 at a time at just under $5 apiece.
Should be made an option, me like.
Sent from my Prism II using Tapatalk
Sent from my Prism II using Tapatalk
That top blind plate & oil pump block off trick worked fine for pressure/vac testing the S25DA. Saw runs great.
Didn't know there were four different S25 air filter tops for the series & now the carb hits the AF cover since I installed the plastic carb spacer & two gaskets "that I thought was missing". I guess I need the taller 11558 or 28452 AF cover now, and not the 11145? The later S25 covers are more straight sided, and don't have the handle bar cutout in the sides.
GRRRRRR
I know this is an old thread, but found it while searching for an over oiling problem on an old S25A.
This was the same "slow leak" issue with the S25DA I just finished, but in operation (saw is running & oiler put back on), there still is direct passage back through to the crankcase from the oiler. If there wasn't, you wouldn't have to blind the hole. There is a small slot in the oiler body that feeds a bit of the impulse to the chamber below the diaphragm, then the main impulse flow goes to the top or back side (farthest away from the engine). Kind of a balanced pressure on the oiler diaphragm.
The makes no sense, and can't see how it keeps from burning some bar oil. This little saw runs way too much oil through it, flings it all over from the bar & chain. I think it's because some impulse is feeding into the chamber bottom, which has the oiler plunger rod & bore at the back side....it doesn't smoke much though.
Here's an oiler body #11269 on FleaBay, mislabeled as the newer 10177, that has a vent hole in the bottom of the inside of the chamber, must have been an early style...a bit of a CF on oilers by Poulans part right there. Notice that it doesn't have the slot cut by the impulse hole though.
I'm thinking about JB welding or packing that slot closed, but don't want to blow out a $20 obsolete diaphragm!
Any other suggestions?
If you have time I can pull the one off a S25DA I tore down to part out. To see if it is what you are needing. Saw wasnt used much at all and P and rod I pulled from it was like new still.
Thanks Kevin, that would be fine. This was my first adventure into one of these 25 series, and I can already tell that I don't like them much, even though they are easy to work on.
Attachments
Yea that oiler body is mine on fleabay, I have several complete ones also for my saws, I received that particular one with the multiple part#'s on the package. I will have to go pull the ones I have and compare them.
Thanks for the great oiler pics.
Now that's the way it needs to be done, that one is fully isolated from the crankcase because there is
no groove cut in the body where the diaphragm sets.
Small world. I like that oiler body better, as the impulse hole is flat faced on the pump body & the gas slot is cast
into the cover/cap. Shouldn't impact the crankcase pressure testing at all, as it's fully sealed.
The vent hole in the bottom of the lower chamber may seep a little bar oil, that escapes between the plunger rod & its bore. I'll bet 95% stay dry down there, unless the plunger shaft or bore is worn out
Good day gents. I mean not to hijack the current conversation. I will be patient and thanks in advance.
Long time lurker and learner. I've been puttering away on a couple of rebranded 3400's. and have a couple of strong runners. The oilers though, are weak. I've pulled, inpected and cleaned them - 3 times now. Pick-up is intact with no cracks. Upon close inspection with strong light I am finding micro tears in the diaphragm right in the indent surrounding the pintle.
The manual oilers deliver like a champ. Clearly these diaphragms are NLA. I will be forced to source some nitrile - buna. I read earlier that a few of you were planning on doing this but did not pick up on how successful it was.
A couple of questions as I've never done this before.
Did it work? I gather the material was expensive. As such, I've been wondering if I guy could pick up a good pair of 18mil nitrile gloves from a chemical supply company and try cutting out the membrame from the gauntlets of the glove. I suspect that as the gloves are not reinforced they likely would not hold up very long- but I thought I'd ask if anyone had tried it.
Any tips or ideas to help get these oilers up to par again would be appreciated.
Here are the Poulan representatives of my growing saw collection. I must say I've a fondness for their robust design and ergonomics. And, like with any new saws, am dying to let the chips fly.
All the best from BC - Cory
Long time lurker and learner. I've been puttering away on a couple of rebranded 3400's. and have a couple of strong runners. The oilers though, are weak. I've pulled, inpected and cleaned them - 3 times now. Pick-up is intact with no cracks. Upon close inspection with strong light I am finding micro tears in the diaphragm right in the indent surrounding the pintle.
The manual oilers deliver like a champ. Clearly these diaphragms are NLA. I will be forced to source some nitrile - buna. I read earlier that a few of you were planning on doing this but did not pick up on how successful it was.
A couple of questions as I've never done this before.
Did it work? I gather the material was expensive. As such, I've been wondering if I guy could pick up a good pair of 18mil nitrile gloves from a chemical supply company and try cutting out the membrame from the gauntlets of the glove. I suspect that as the gloves are not reinforced they likely would not hold up very long- but I thought I'd ask if anyone had tried it.
Any tips or ideas to help get these oilers up to par again would be appreciated.
Here are the Poulan representatives of my growing saw collection. I must say I've a fondness for their robust design and ergonomics. And, like with any new saws, am dying to let the chips fly.
All the best from BC - Cory
I tried the non reinforced stuff which a member was good enough to supply to me and it didn't work. I don't think it was stiiff enough. The nylon reinforced stuff was dear as they have a minimum order which was, I think, about 15 sq ft and it was around $168 USD plus shipping.
You can see my memory isn't worth a damn.
You can see my memory isn't worth a damn.
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