Nice piece of Poulan history there!
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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I can't believe two pictures of a chain guard and no saw:-( Nice find though.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
On the subject of Poulan S25's, what's the story on the black plastic heat isolator/carb spacer? I search and looked and read a lot of threads here, but still can't figure out what series used them and what one did not.
I had an early model S25DA in to fix for a guy, and thought the spacer was just missing. Got one & installed it and the carb hit the top cover. I saw that there were taller covers used on the later series, tried one and it still hit. Thought maybe it was a Tillotson HU-10 versus Walbro WT-83 thickness issue, but they're the same...I gave up and took the spacer out.
On the later S25 series saws, did the air box/cover handle also change to increase the depth to allow the spacer to be used?
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Let me know how it works. I have some material which I believe is somewhat thicker than Oem.. Seems to work okay but am always open for better options.
LumberJack1940
ArboristSite Operative
Think it's time to get rid of the ol' 306a, I tried to get rid of her awhile ago but couldn't bring myself to do it but now it's time.
What do you guys think?
What do you guys think?
$100.00 shipped, i pick them up for $50.00 or i don't get them, i have 7Think it's time to get rid of the ol' 306a, I tried to get rid of her awhile ago but couldn't bring myself to do it but now it's time.
What do you guys think?
Put-It-In-H!
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi, just incase anyone is interested, here's an update on my 306A that wasn't running. Since I last posted I've fitted a better spark plug boot, cleaned the points, set them (had to wait for a gauge I'd ordered to arrive in the mail) and then checked for spark, which I had! Then gave the saw a quick start up. Very pleased with it and knowing how to clean and set points is a skill worth having! Who knows how many years this saw had been left at the back of a garage written off as a 'non runner' when it was a simple fix really.
Thanks guys for the help.
Thanks guys for the help.
pictures please !! nice job
Poulan XX ready to go together. Just need to get the oiler system straight in my head first. Oil tank looks to be pressurized with an umbrella valve but has a vent line running to the bottom of the bar mount. W.T.H.!
Good thing I saved the tiny barrel shape comp. spring I found in the oil tank. The ball check in the 'pump' was missing a spring. No wonder the manual pump didn't work. Someone in there before me..
Still using Blondie's 'puter.......................................dang it.
Good thing I saved the tiny barrel shape comp. spring I found in the oil tank. The ball check in the 'pump' was missing a spring. No wonder the manual pump didn't work. Someone in there before me..
Still using Blondie's 'puter.......................................dang it.
your thoughts on comparison between the Poulan 4000 (65) and the Pioneer P41 (66cc). my opinion is the P41 is a torque monster and can handle a 32" bar if need be, the 4000 is right behind it and will run a 28" bar if needed for a short time.
Good going! A few pics of the saw would be good.
There's a member form Greece on here periodically. He managed to pick up a nice Poulan 4200 from somewhere in Britain and I believe he has either a 245A or a 306. He found the same thing as you. Very few Poulans ended up in Britain.
Put-It-In-H!
ArboristSite Lurker
Cheers. Here's a couple I took after I'd had it running..
Just wondering, anyone have experience with removing the cylinder and piston on this saw? Is it a big task or fairly straight forward? Seems to be quite a bit of carbon build up on the top of the piston, thought it'd be nice to give it a clean and polish, or would you advise I leave it?
Thanks. Luke.
Put-It-In-H!
ArboristSite Lurker
Yeah, I was very lucky. I got this one in the UK for less than the postage of the one I got from America back in august 2013! I cringe when I think what I paid for that other one, saw, international post, customs charges, plus it needed a replacement muffler and clutch cover! I don't know the history of this one really, how it ended up in Britain over 25 years ago, would be nice to get back in touch with the guy and find out. Was they only ever sold in US, so the only way one would've ended up here is if someone brought one over? I really like these old poulans, to me they look like how a chainsaw should look and the sound is unbeatable. I like the older ones which are a lighter green with the 'thirty-o-six' decal and the even older 203.
I would leave it in place, run it and keep it clean with good mix fuel in it.
"Just wondering, anyone have experience with removing the cylinder and piston on this saw? Is it a big task or fairly straight forward? Seems to be quite a bit of carbon build up on the top of the piston, thought it'd be nice to give it a clean and polish, or would you advise I leave it?"
I've done a dozen or more 306/245 series P & C overhauls. It's not difficult at all, except that you'll probably have to hand cut a new base & two intake gaskets, as the originals are stuck like glue & tear into pieces when you take it apart. Pulling the top end will let you clean out the exhaust port & piston ring grooves, as they're usually well fouled up from the 16 or 32 to 1 motor oil mix. If you remove the rod from the crank, there's 28 loose "full compliment" needle bearings that will need to be captured, so beware of that.
It likely needs a new foam body seal (between the top cover/handle & case top), as most are degraded into dust.
New piston rings are NLA from Poulan, but can be made from Homey SXLAO rings, if you need them. Some of the OEM Homey rings I bought were stamped "Made in England" on the package, so you know they're high quality!
I've done a dozen or more 306/245 series P & C overhauls. It's not difficult at all, except that you'll probably have to hand cut a new base & two intake gaskets, as the originals are stuck like glue & tear into pieces when you take it apart. Pulling the top end will let you clean out the exhaust port & piston ring grooves, as they're usually well fouled up from the 16 or 32 to 1 motor oil mix. If you remove the rod from the crank, there's 28 loose "full compliment" needle bearings that will need to be captured, so beware of that.
It likely needs a new foam body seal (between the top cover/handle & case top), as most are degraded into dust.
New piston rings are NLA from Poulan, but can be made from Homey SXLAO rings, if you need them. Some of the OEM Homey rings I bought were stamped "Made in England" on the package, so you know they're high quality!
The last two 2strokes I worked on had low compression from carbon. I used carbon cleaner we have at work called GM Top Engine Cleaner. We use it for carbon build up on car and truck engine that are burning oil. Have had 100% success rate on the ones I have done for twenty years. Last chain saw I did was a month ago that had no compression. After soaking for one week it has 170 psi. Saw runs great.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Works great for soaking carbs and cleaning throttle bodies .if your auto dont idle good, it will clean the throttle body bore like new.
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Sent from my Prism II from T-Mobile's slow edge network :-(
Put-It-In-H!
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks hotshot and s sidewell.
That GM Top Engine Cleaner sounds like great stuff, I'll have a look online for it.
Thanks for that info hotshot, good to know that rings can be made out of those homelite ones.
Yeah, my exhaust port has quite a bit of build up too. I had a 2 stroke bike piston with a lot of carbon build up but I managed to clean it all off with white spirit and then gave it a light polish and got it like new. So just made me think it would be nice to give the poulan similar treatment.
If I just wanted to do the top end for now and leave the rod in place, how much needs to be removed to get the cylinder off? Obviously the covers, handle brace and coil etc. 3 of the cylinder nuts seem 'get-at-able'.
Is that foam still available or do you make your own out of some material?
May give it ago sometime but do as Acornhill said until then and always run it with good fuel mix.
Thanks.
That GM Top Engine Cleaner sounds like great stuff, I'll have a look online for it.
Thanks for that info hotshot, good to know that rings can be made out of those homelite ones.
Yeah, my exhaust port has quite a bit of build up too. I had a 2 stroke bike piston with a lot of carbon build up but I managed to clean it all off with white spirit and then gave it a light polish and got it like new. So just made me think it would be nice to give the poulan similar treatment.
If I just wanted to do the top end for now and leave the rod in place, how much needs to be removed to get the cylinder off? Obviously the covers, handle brace and coil etc. 3 of the cylinder nuts seem 'get-at-able'.
Is that foam still available or do you make your own out of some material?
May give it ago sometime but do as Acornhill said until then and always run it with good fuel mix.
Thanks.
so after soaking you just poured it out? what happens to the carbon that goes into solution but doesn't get poured out (there's always some)? i'm guessing you probly had to "wash" the compression chamber out a couple times with mix before running.
And from "no compression" to "170 psi" just by pouring some magic juice into the cylinder seems, well....., just a bit far-fetched in the first place, (unless, of course, the solution ends up in the crank case). From "low compression" to "better compression" would sound plausible, but from zero to 170? Hell, even a coupla stuck rings would still provide some compression. And if there was zero compression, there'd hafta be a pretty big hole somewhere, and wouldn't all the juice just leak right out of it anyway? Hmmm......
Forgive my skepticism, but I'd need to see this firsthand to be completely convinced.
opcorn:
Forgive my skepticism, but I'd need to see this firsthand to be completely convinced.
opcorn:Similar threads
