Thats because of the pictures in the back ground, so you don't look at the cost.
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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caffeine1fg
ArboristSite Operative
Hi guys, my first post. I've been on a Poulan buying binge lately! I have Cad bad!
In the last month I have bought a Craftsman 3.0, 3.4 Countervibe, Poulan 335, 3350 and a Micro XXV. All runners, all cheap.
Thanks to this site and its knowledgeable members I have discovered these awesome older Poulan saws. I'll post up some pictures once I have more of the saws cleaned up.
John H.
In the last month I have bought a Craftsman 3.0, 3.4 Countervibe, Poulan 335, 3350 and a Micro XXV. All runners, all cheap.
Thanks to this site and its knowledgeable members I have discovered these awesome older Poulan saws. I'll post up some pictures once I have more of the saws cleaned up.
John H.
caffeine1fg
ArboristSite Operative
Here are my saws. None of them are show pieces except the 346xp but is only 2 months old.
I'll have many questions to follow. If I'm doing anything wrong let me know. Thanks.
I'll have many questions to follow. If I'm doing anything wrong let me know. Thanks.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
you need one more top handle..... i try to have 2 of everything......well except wife......
caffeine1fg
ArboristSite Operative
You read my mind. I actually have my eye on another Micro XXV and a 2.3 with a chain brake.
I have too many projects on the go already though.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
shawn022
ArboristSite Guru
First post in the poulan thread. Looking for a little help. I have a nice poulan 2000 I'm trying to get going. Pressure tested it and found a leaking clutch side seal. No biggie. But I also had a leak from the bar oil delivery hole. Is there some sort of check valve in these saws or is it most likely a case gasket issue? Thanks.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
maybe the oil line in the crank case has a hole or is broken.....i would replace it and do the test again......
One wife can be TOO many also at times. 
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Upside down twins. But nice.
Yes there is a oiler check valve in the case behind the clutch. It should be removed and plugged to do a pressure test. It uses a pressure system oiler and as you found out, if you pressurize the crankcase the check valve will allow it to pressurize the oil tank as well.
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
I completely disassembled/reassembled my oil burning 3400. Cylinder and piston were mint after clean-up. This is/was my first one (period) and it was a fairly slick procedure. I should have asked questions before but...you know how it goes. I am looking for feedback on any of the following before I start on my other 3400:
1) I removed cylinder gasket and used motoseal. I also set the case halves with motoseal as well. I gather this is a appropriate product for this? Tenacious stuff it is.
I did not check the squish before hand but tried the solder through the spark plug hole after and am only getting down to 0.035". I checked my other 3400 and the same solder doesn't even squish at TDC with the stock base gasket. This isn't a controlled comparison but I gather the compression has been increased.
2) I know these saws by design, have lower compression, but is it worth trying to get it down to 0.020"? I've searched a fair bit here and see it is not uncommon to seek < 0.020" on saws of this displacement? I guy would have to remove a fair bit off of the base of the jug.
Having said that, the saw fired after 3-4 pulls and immediately idled much quicker than prior to tear down/gasket removal. Sign of increased compression I gather? I did not change the seals yet (got some questions there) as they were tight before and seem so now. Throttle response was wicked after idle adjustment with my previous L H carb settings. Does one follow the same tuning procedure after compression has been increased?
3) I gather these National seals have been successful for the saw ( Qoute from old post - National seal # 253747 looks like it will work as a replacement for the Poulan 3400 series saws seal (530019097). These seem to totally NLA so a replacement source is necessary.). Just trying to get feedback before I order a few to have on hand.
4) There are Caber rings on ebay from a seller in Greece. Quality rings?
Any brief input on any of these would be swell.
Thanks guys, I am alreadly looking forward to the next "rebuild".
Cory
1) I removed cylinder gasket and used motoseal. I also set the case halves with motoseal as well. I gather this is a appropriate product for this? Tenacious stuff it is.
I did not check the squish before hand but tried the solder through the spark plug hole after and am only getting down to 0.035". I checked my other 3400 and the same solder doesn't even squish at TDC with the stock base gasket. This isn't a controlled comparison but I gather the compression has been increased.
2) I know these saws by design, have lower compression, but is it worth trying to get it down to 0.020"? I've searched a fair bit here and see it is not uncommon to seek < 0.020" on saws of this displacement? I guy would have to remove a fair bit off of the base of the jug.
Having said that, the saw fired after 3-4 pulls and immediately idled much quicker than prior to tear down/gasket removal. Sign of increased compression I gather? I did not change the seals yet (got some questions there) as they were tight before and seem so now. Throttle response was wicked after idle adjustment with my previous L H carb settings. Does one follow the same tuning procedure after compression has been increased?
3) I gather these National seals have been successful for the saw ( Qoute from old post - National seal # 253747 looks like it will work as a replacement for the Poulan 3400 series saws seal (530019097). These seem to totally NLA so a replacement source is necessary.). Just trying to get feedback before I order a few to have on hand.
4) There are Caber rings on ebay from a seller in Greece. Quality rings?
Any brief input on any of these would be swell.
Thanks guys, I am alreadly looking forward to the next "rebuild".
Cory
1) Motoseal works fine for both of those applications.
2) Unless you have a lathe or access to one, the .020" squish you are after will probably cost around $50, I don't think it's worth it, but your call. Tune the saw to 4 stroke out of the cut, like usual.
3) National seals are fine, but the SKF 6119 are better quality. See my old post # 31540 with pics.
4) Make sure you ask the Greek if the rings are correctly 1/16" (0.063") thickness, I just sent three pair back for the S25DA series that were metric, idiot won't update his advertisement either to state .058" thickness, 1.5 mm. Cost me return shipping!
2) Unless you have a lathe or access to one, the .020" squish you are after will probably cost around $50, I don't think it's worth it, but your call. Tune the saw to 4 stroke out of the cut, like usual.
3) National seals are fine, but the SKF 6119 are better quality. See my old post # 31540 with pics.
4) Make sure you ask the Greek if the rings are correctly 1/16" (0.063") thickness, I just sent three pair back for the S25DA series that were metric, idiot won't update his advertisement either to state .058" thickness, 1.5 mm. Cost me return shipping!
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
is that the difference in the 2.1 or 38 cc 2.3 ive only flipped the ones i had.... have not ordered any......did not know there was a difference....i have saw his on the bay.....what i mean is there a difference in the 38cc ones????
2.3 series. Yes, the side gap spec for that Poulan is 0.003", his metric l.5 mm rings will give you .008". Otherwise Caber rings are excellent quality, and all the other Cabers I've bought from him were sized correctly.
Thanks a bunch hotshot - will take your advice.
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