Nik's Poulan Thread

[MrGiggles]

Well that kind of sucks, I wanted to learn some Poulan secrets. Hoping this saw cleans up as well as yours.

I replied to your PM yesterday. I really wish AS would bring the popup message notification back, didn't even know I had an unread message.

Walbro HDB question and metering lever height question wrt aftermarket kits.

This is the second (or third) time I've encountered a carb I've had to set the metering lever below flush - like 0.015 - 0.020 or so. If I don't, I have to really turn the H down <3/4 to even get the saw to lean up. It is pig rich at 7/8 or 1.

Am I heading in the right direction thinking the button on the metering diaphram in these particular AM kits might be a tad more pronounced than OEM. Saws run well once adjusted but just wondering if anyone has run into this ever when swapping out kits? Or is there something else I should be looking at?

I don't have an OEM to compare these diaphragms to and the H needle tips look clean under 10x lens. Just leave them set low and go?

Thanks fellows.

View attachment 392212
Doesn't sound right to me. Every Hdb I've rebuilt ran perfect with the metering lever flush with the carb body. I did have one kit that had an incorrect metering diaphragm as the nipple was protruding. Was pretty obvious .
Here is photo of a correct one

Could be a difference in elevation.

 

[Ambull01]

I would sure love to read the court transcript on that one.
As we continue to protect, cater to and save all the idiots from themselves we dilute the gene pool. We will likely be back to the stone age in ten generations.

I was just thinking the same thing. We don't have a way to thin out the herd.

Personal prejudice here but you may think about changing that Oregon Vanguard chain for a non safety chain. They definitely do not cut as well as an LGX or similar non safety chain

Umm, how do you know what kind of chain I have?

 

[ChipsFlyin]

Walbro HDB question and metering lever height question wrt aftermarket kits.

This is the second (or third) time I've encountered a carb I've had to set the metering lever below flush - like 0.015 - 0.020 or so. If I don't, I have to really turn the H down <3/4 to even get the saw to lean up. It is pig rich at 7/8 or 1.

Am I heading in the right direction thinking the button on the metering diaphram in these particular AM kits might be a tad more pronounced than OEM. Saws run well once adjusted but just wondering if anyone has run into this ever when swapping out kits? Or is there something else I should be looking at?

I don't have an OEM to compare these diaphragms to and the H needle tips look clean under 10x lens. Just leave them set low and go?

Thanks fellows.

This may be a dumb question. Are you replacing the needle also or just the diaphragm?

 

[joe25DA]

To bring plastic or rubber pieces "back" I make up my own, simple juice. Very simple and I'll share my secret with my poulan pals. 50% paint thinner 50% boiled linseed oil. Shake it a bit, apply to a rag then wipe on to your plastic. Might take a couple applications but it does work. Did it on 2 of my SXLAO filter covers, those are notorious for sun fade. The look new now

 

[fossil]

I was just thinking the same thing. We don't have a way to thin out the herd.



Umm, how do you know what kind of chain I have?

Looking at the rolled over depth gauges (rakers)
Likely because I get a few of them with saws that I buy and I don't think they take much of a bite. Even sharp as hell they don't cut like a good non-safety chain. You also need a special depth gauge tool from Oregon. Redunshee ground the side off the gauges on some of his and said it made a big improvement but I don't have an aggressive enough stone to do it in less than an hour.
I think they're common around here because that's what the big box stores sell. Except for over priced Stihl chains, I can't find a decently priced non-safety chain anywhere near me.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Looking at the rolled over depth gauges (rakers)
I can't find a decently priced non-safety chain anywhere near me.

Might know a place. Cheapest I have even seen in the states for loops. Oregon.

If he wont ship could be a middle man. Have sent stuff to SA up north before.

 

[Hoggwood]

Thanks guys.

I did not change the metering needle as the old ones were low hours. I would suspect any needle height difference from kit to kit would be compensated for at the lever. I tossed the old kits ( dumb) and have no physical reference.

I even went as far as swapping out the metering plate assemblies with new looking for a chamber floor height difference. I will look at the cheap kits closer. They are not typical AM named ones and never thought they might in fact have a wrong metering diaphragm. That, or they just have big nipples.

Cutting elevation is around +/- 2500 ft.

 

[Acornhill]

Pinewood derby car for my cub scout, 6 year old

 

[joe25DA]

That's the saw. Lucky it wasn't toasted

 

[redunshee]

Thanks guys.

I did not change the metering needle as the old ones were low hours. I would suspect any needle height difference from kit to kit would be compensated for at the lever. I tossed the old kits ( dumb) and have no physical reference.

I even went as far as swapping out the metering plate assemblies with new looking for a chamber floor height difference. I will look at the cheap kits closer. They are not typical AM named ones and never thought they might in fact have a wrong metering diaphragm. That, or they just have big nipples.

Cutting elevation is around +/- 2500 ft.

You don't set the metering lever using the chamber floor as the reference. You use the top of the carb body w/0 the metering gasket and diaphragm in place. I also presume you have them in the correct offer, i.e. Gasket first, then diaphragm. Exactly opposite from the pump side.

 

[Hoggwood]

You don't set the metering lever using the chamber floor as the reference. You use the top of the carb body w/0 the metering gasket and diaphragm in place. I also presume you have them in the correct offer, i.e. Gasket first, then diaphragm. Exactly opposite from the pump side.

Thanks Redunshee, my post might have been confusing with the chamber reference.

I was referring to the possibility that a different thickness plate would position the fulcrum and lever arm at a different height wrt the top of the carb body and diaphragm. That would require a correction at the lever/nipple end to get the lever flush? Regardless of different metering assembly plates, these kits all require a below flush adjustment. I figure(d) I was missing something like the ordering of gaskets and diaphragms ( been there) as well. Not the case. With the original plates they still run ultra rich at 1 turn and flush.

I was a bit creeped out when the saws wouldn't run with flush lever and new kits until the H was getting closer to 1/2. So, I kept on dropping the lever until I could get closer to a happy WOT at 1 turn out. I know just enough here to likely burn up a saw LOL.

Maybe this is a case of quality control at the factory.

Thanks again.

 

[Ambull01]

Looking at the rolled over depth gauges (rakers)
Likely because I get a few of them with saws that I buy and I don't think they take much of a bite. Even sharp as hell they don't cut like a good non-safety chain. You also need a special depth gauge tool from Oregon. Redunshee ground the side off the gauges on some of his and said it made a big improvement but I don't have an aggressive enough stone to do it in less than an hour.
I think they're common around here because that's what the big box stores sell. Except for over priced Stihl chains, I can't find a decently priced non-safety chain anywhere near me.

That's impressive. All the chains look pretty much the same to me.

 

[Hoggwood]

That's impressive. All the chains look pretty much the same to me.

Three letters to remember...L...G...X.

Be safe and know where the tip is and what is on the hidden side of what you are cutting through. That saw should rip nicely.

 

[Guido Salvage]

Here is one that you guys missed, an 8500 for $25.00...

Posted: 25 days ago

Chainsaw for sale - $25 (Custer)

Chainsaw for Sale - Poulan 8500 perfect for someone looking for parts.
Includes 24 " Oregon Bar #952-04435
2450 88 57 TDAND three chains with 1/2 life left

$25 takes all

• do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers

Happy to say that with the help of a member here the saw is now safely in my garage. The seller said his saw shop told him it needed a new piston and they were right, it is scored and only 90 PSI on my gauge.

 

[fossil]

Three letters to remember...L...G...X.

Be safe and know where the tip is and what is on the hidden side of what you are cutting through. That saw should rip nicely.

A lot of the wood I cut is dirty. There seems to be a lot of clay embedded in the bark. I bought a loop of BPX for my 026. It's a semi chisel chain. I'm very impressed with how fast that chain cuts and it seems to stay sharp longer. It wasn't just me there were was an arborist there and he was impressed as well.
I have quite a few chisel chains on my saws but would like to change to semi chisel on the ones I use frequently (which is not frequently enough unfortunately).
There's no doubt that LGX is a fast cutting chain and I think my favourite.

I may have to get out of my cheap mode and try a loop of 3/8 DPX.

 

[Ambull01]

Don't think I've ever used anything but safety chain. Usually just went to Home Depot and bought whatever fit my crappy Homelite. I want to try semi-chisel. I'll probably stay away from chisel since I'm thinking most of the stuff I cut will be downed trees so they'll probably be some dirt/debris on it.

All those freaking chain alphabet soup indicators are confusing to me.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Dayton 401A going back together, thank you again Mark for the guidance.

While sorting out those Poulan documents I found what I was talking about in a 361 service manual. I will try to get that scanned soon.


This is my Dayton, 361 style. I converted it to a auto oiler from a 401A style Dayton.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks guys.

I did not change the metering needle as the old ones were low hours. I would suspect any needle height difference from kit to kit would be compensated for at the lever. I tossed the old kits ( dumb) and have no physical reference.

I even went as far as swapping out the metering plate assemblies with new looking for a chamber floor height difference. I will look at the cheap kits closer. They are not typical AM named ones and never thought they might in fact have a wrong metering diaphragm. That, or they just have big nipples.

Cutting elevation is around +/- 2500 ft.

Like you mention you cannot change the lever on a HDB without changing the whole metering plate.

The problem I have found and my dislike for the HDB carbs is how the needle is mounted to the pin. If you look close there are two "hooks" that wrap around the pin and if you do not adjust the needle in the correct manner you will stretch those hooks open some.

When that happens, the lever will not properly pivot on the pin and slop up and down on it and won't properly move the inlet needle correctly. This sounds like it could be your problem if you tried to adjust the new one as well.

Look at the Walbro service manual for the proper instruction on adjusting that lever. To be honest, it shouldn't ever hardly need adjusted with a proper kit and it should be adjusted level.

The new metering plates are still available from Walbro, I ordered a half a dozen just to have here a bit ago.

 

[Hoggwood]

Like you mention you cannot change the lever on a HDB without changing the whole metering plate.

The problem I have found and my dislike for the HDB carbs is how the needle is mounted to the pin. If you look close there are two "hooks" that wrap around the pin and if you do not adjust the needle in the correct manner you will stretch those hooks open some.

When that happens, the lever will not properly pivot on the pin and slop up and down on it and won't properly move the inlet needle correctly. This sounds like it could be your problem if you tried to adjust the new one as well.

Look at the Walbro service manual for the proper instruction on adjusting that lever. To be honest, it shouldn't ever hardly need adjusted with a proper kit and it should be adjusted level.

The new metering plates are still available from Walbro, I ordered a half a dozen just to have here a bit ago.

I like where this is heading.

Thanks for all the replies guys. As is always, the sage and timely advice on this thread is tops.

 

[joe25DA]

While sorting out those Poulan documents I found what I was talking about in a 361 service manual. I will try to get that scanned soon.


This is my Dayton, 361 style. I converted it to a auto oiler from a 401A style Dayton.

View attachment 392298

While sorting out those Poulan documents I found what I was talking about in a 361 service manual. I will try to get that scanned soon.


This is my Dayton, 361 style. I converted it to a auto oiler from a 401A style Dayton.

View attachment 392298

waiting for an excuse to buy this