Nik's Poulan Thread

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One other place to check though not easy to see is where the reed valve fits into the case. Not at the opening but where the reed tunnel meets the crankcase. I couldn't find the leak either. However after sprayng soapy water all over the place I noticed bubbles coming coming upbetween the case and rear handle/fuel tank assembly. After removing said assembly there was a hairline crack where Poulan had used sealant between the reed tunnel and crankcase. Simply used a little JB Weld and problem fixed.

Did you pull a vacuum on the case with JB Weld, or just let it creep in?
 
Man I hate those HS -A carburators! My Dayton isnt acting right now, every time I try hand go full throttle it wants to die, I can't seem to find the perfect Hi-Lo combo...
 
Sea Foam FTW. When HS carbs are working well they are great but I've had an issue with a few or maybe more. I soak most of them now before I kit them. Not sure what it cleans up but it seems to work most of the time.
I've never had an issue with Walbros but know many who have.
 
When working right I find idle is around 1-1/8 out and high around 1 out. If the carb has a governor they can screw up. You can block them off by cutting a 1/4" slug from an aluminum beer or pop can with a paper hole punch and dropping it in the bottom of the governor hole and putting the screw back in.
If any of them are HS 151A carbs on the larger Homelites there's a bulletin explaining the high side tuning on them I can forward to you.
All the bad ones I've had puked mix out of the muffler like the one on your Poulan.
 
Starting cleaning up one of my 3000 parts saws and found that the cylinder has a wallered out muffler bolt hole and isn't deep enough. Likely the previous owner tried to fix it. Hoping I can deepen the hole and retap for a 1/4-20 bolt. If not I'll have to go a size larger. Other than that the cylinder is in great shape and blew 150 before I tore it apart.
 
Starting cleaning up one of my 3000 parts saws and found that the cylinder has a wallered out muffler bolt hole and isn't deep enough. Likely the previous owner tried to fix it. Hoping I can deepen the hole and retap for a 1/4-20 bolt. If not I'll have to go a size larger. Other than that the cylinder is in great shape and blew 150 before I tore it apart.
I have the same problem with a 4620 or 295 so I'll be interested to follow your journey.
 
When working right I find idle is around 1-1/8 out and high around 1 out. If the carb has a governor they can screw up. You can block them off by cutting a 1/4" slug from an aluminum beer or pop can with a paper hole punch and dropping it in the bottom of the governor hole and putting the screw back in.
If any of them are HS 151A carbs on the larger Homelites there's a bulletin explaining the high side tuning on them I can forward to you.
All the bad ones I've had puked mix out of the muffler like the one on your Poulan.
Any help I can get right now would be awesome, thanks!
 
Starting cleaning up one of my 3000 parts saws and found that the cylinder has a wallered out muffler bolt hole and isn't deep enough. Likely the previous owner tried to fix it. Hoping I can deepen the hole and retap for a 1/4-20 bolt. If not I'll have to go a size larger. Other than that the cylinder is in great shape and blew 150 before I tore it apart.
You need my insert kit that I use on engines, instead of a heli-coil, its threaded on outside with the correct inner threads, steel insert. It's called time serts.

Steve
 
You need my insert kit that I use on engines, instead of a heli-coil, its threaded on outside with the correct inner threads, steel insert. It's called time serts.

Steve
Too expensive I believe. have a 14mm set at home but not 1/4-20
You need my insert kit that I use on engines, instead of a heli-coil, its threaded on outside with the correct inner threads, steel insert. It's called time serts.

Steve
 
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