Nik's Poulan Thread

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It don't matter to me, its your saw. LOL

What kind of line is that you used?
Poulan line I had on hand. It's stiff and kinks easy. I hope it lasts. Do you have any problems with yours pumping fuel after they have set a few months? My theory is the reed gets dry and doesn't seal good enough to give a good impulse.
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Poulan line I had on hand. It's stiff and kinks easy. I hope it lasts. Do you have any problems with yours pumping fuel after they have set a few months? My theory is the reed gets dry and doesn't seal good enough to give a good impulse.
View attachment 550109

That will last a little while but its not the best line.

I think they all take a dozen or so pulls to start when set for that long. Its just a lot of line to get fuel pulled through, just the nature of the beast as far as I'm concerned. Stiff fuel pump diaphragms make it worse.

The reed is steel and is dry most the time when not running..
 
I was just about to torque the flywheel to 5000 ft lbs when I decided to see if anyone responded to my first post. I wasn't going to pull it out of the tank, that's the pita side.

To test my theory on the dry reed, I had the carb off and dripped some 2 cycle oil on the reed. Put the carb back on and it fired in a few pulls. This was on a rebuilt carb too, with new mounting gaskets, not the one pictured. I don't think the choke will help pull the fuel up if the pump isn't getting its pulse. I pulled at least 20 times on another one tonight and it never coughed. I have 3 of these saws. I put a little primer down the carb and it was running in a few pulls. 2 out of the 3 have rebuilt carbs. Use them daily and they fire right up.
 
You need to remove the oil pump gear that's behind the clutch. There are two large bolts and one smaller one. If you pull off the cover you will see a gear mechanism and a large washer along with a small tee apparatus. Likely the whole thing is covered in grease. Once everything is removed you will see the crank seal. In order to do a pressure/vacuum test you have to replace the bolts.
Check the reedvalve adaptor gasket. I've found that's most often where the leak is.
Where exactly does the leak originate, I'm going to break it apart tomorrow and cut a new gasket for it. I replace the last crank seal today and it still does it. So now I am starting from the fuel tank and working my way back.
 
Awesome, thank you! I will replace it tonight, I have some gasket material, I'll make a new one. And this caused your saw to race while on its side?
 
It didn't race on it's side. Another thing you may want to check is the condition of the throttle shaft on the carb. It shouldn't have any perceptible play in it. Sometimes they wear out on HS carbs and cause an air leak that can't be tuned out.
 
I will surely check that as well, there is only a couple more places it could be since I put in new crank seals
 
How are you testing?
Well I'm kinda just trying to check the obvious places first, crankseals, carb, carb adapter etc. but if none of it works then I will have to fabricate some pieces to block off exhaust and intake so I can pressure vacuum test it. I've never been that deep into a chainsaw before so I was mostly going about it the long way for the experience.
 

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