Hello Mr Todd.
Steve
Steve
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
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Get off my lawn!
[emoji6]
I should de-cobweb the garage.
Any of you fellas try the 245 piston kit from Little Red Barn?
Mine pumps 130 now after getting it running.
I like to see 140-150.
Prolly not worth it. [emoji848]
Any of you fellas try the 245 piston kit from Little Red Barn?
Mine pumps 130 now after getting it running.
I like to see 140-150.
Prolly not worth it. [emoji848]
Base gasket delete and check squash, should bump it up.
Steve
Steve
Cobwebs, those are fly traps, seen any flies lately.
Steve
Steve
Oh yes. And, skeeters, hoard of skeeters. Them spiders ain’t doing their job.
RAS61
ArboristSite Operative
What do you use in the gasket's place, some type of liquid gasket?
Derco or Yamabond.
Steve
Steve
Nothing like a little a/c work.
Steve
Steve
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
A friend just got this for $75... I want it! Based on a 245A.
challenger
Cheese is good.
Get out of jail card?
Anyway I've never taken a, "selfie", and never will. This phone cost me too much $ and I don't want to break it [emoji16].
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
Anyway I've never taken a, "selfie", and never will. This phone cost me too much $ and I don't want to break it [emoji16].
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
The Dude abides...
challenger
Cheese is good.
Can anyone help with seals for a 25DA? The IPL I have shows one seal as the crankshaft seal part number 19051. I assume that the saw uses the same seal for both sides? Also I've read that there are two seal numbers from SKF and Timken that will work if I can't get a pair of the 19051 seals?? SKF/CR-5510 is a good aftermarket replacement. National/Timken 313156. Anyone try or sue these?
Thanks
Thanks
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
Angry face and best grannpa hat ...... Im callin BS .Nice to meet you all.
Get off my lawn!
Question, what are you doing after you run a saw that is going back on the shelf. Do you drain the fuel, run the carb dry, nothing. So tell me
According to my chart, both will work. PersonalIty like National/Timken seals. Same seals for both sides.
Steve
Drain fuel and run it dry.
Steve
Steve
Don’t buy that junk!!, there are still some OEM pistons & rings on flea-pay, just look them up by part number. Toolman, or something like that, was the sellers name...
Well, I got set back a day finishing up on the S25CVA, due to a molar extraction! That’s the second split-in-half upper molar tooth in a little over a year.
The “Mud Dauber” saw is restored & is a strong runner, but will have to do something with that ghetto handle bar covering...electrical tape.
The smaller size Stihl rubber handle covering fits these 3/4” handle bar, if I remember correctly. Stihl #0000 781 2009.
It’s time to get the dish soap, air adapters & pressurize the whole roll up, to slide a piece on...turn the air off, then use a tubing cutter to clip the covering off straight at the desired length on the bar.
Updated: This new Stihl tubing looks like the factory covering, got two blisters on my hand now...but got ‘er on.
The “Mud Dauber” saw is restored & is a strong runner, but will have to do something with that ghetto handle bar covering...electrical tape.
The smaller size Stihl rubber handle covering fits these 3/4” handle bar, if I remember correctly. Stihl #0000 781 2009.
It’s time to get the dish soap, air adapters & pressurize the whole roll up, to slide a piece on...turn the air off, then use a tubing cutter to clip the covering off straight at the desired length on the bar.
Updated: This new Stihl tubing looks like the factory covering, got two blisters on my hand now...but got ‘er on.
2stroke_shaman
ArboristSite Guru
I used to run it dry but then I tried this can fuel . It is good for 5 years in the can and 2 in the saw . I found it will even soften up ethanol hardened diaphragms . Smells like race fuel . I use it for all the shelf queens for storage . I buy it on sale and date the can . Most is made by VP in a generic can .
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