Nik's Poulan Thread

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New saws, from a long time ago. Obtained free because GF knew someone.
Ones a Craftsman 3.0 with 3.4ci apparently.
Other is Craftsman 2.4 with 42cc apparently. Love the under labeling!
 

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New saws, from a long time ago. Obtained free because GF knew someone.
Ones a Craftsman 3.0 with 3.4ci apparently.
Other is Craftsman 2.4 with 42cc apparently. Love the under labeling!
I've had 2 of the 3.0 that is really a 3.4. They were sold with 18".

Still have one that has new crank seals and carb kit and all the lines redone.

Folks like to collect them for that reason alone. 3.0 numbers.


c30342.JPGc303422.JPG
 
That’s just fine, I remember you running them tighter than i like, so I took the 0.030” max out. Getting the crank centered in the case is more important.

Curious as to what end play his 3800 has right now.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/niks-poulan-thread.98495/post-6048584

I remember that was a right fiddle getting it centered and close enough play when I did my 4000. Don't even think I measured play in the end just made sure it had a little and was center.

It had a lot when I got it and was instructed by a bunch of you helpful gents to pull it down. Glad I did too as it was starting to chew the case. PTO side I believe from memory. The bearing had walked out on that side and also eaten up the thrust washer on that side too a little. Probably could of just beaten in that bearing and called it a day but that wasn't why I had it apart.
 
What you show is called axial play, and needs to be set about 0.020” on a fresh 3400-4000 series rebuild.

Do you have access to dial calipers or an indicator?
Good to know that type of movement is normal. Thanks for the information.
As far as calipers go, I have a cheapo normal type and a decent digital one. If the digital doesn't work it wouldn't be too big of an issue for me to pick up a dial in the somewhat near future.
Now I'm curious though, how are you supposed to measure the play with one of those?
 
Probably could of just beaten in that bearing and called it a day but that wasn't why I had it apart.
I remembered that saw, glad it’s still cutting wood!.

I found you can incrementally move those bearings with good control by using a big & small socket, washers, nut, & a long 6mm bolt. Just like pulling a wheel bearing out.

Of course you have to have the cases split & keep mock assembling-dissassembling to recheck the side play & centering.. You’re right, it's a PITA to do...
 
Now I'm curious though, how are you supposed to measure the play with one of those?

Without tearing it down, just pull out on the flywheel (FW) & measure the case to FW gap, then push the FW in & measure it again in the exact same spot. You can get a rough reading within 0.002”.
 
I remembered that saw, glad it’s still cutting wood!.

I found you can incrementally move those bearings with good control by using a big & small socket, washers, nut, & a long 6mm bolt. Just like pulling a wheel bearing out.

Of course you have to have the cases split & keep mock assembling-dissassembling to recheck the side play & centering.. You’re right, it's a PITA to do...

Yeah something like that tool would of made life a bit easier. I used a socket and a hammer:)

Yup still cutting. Have 4 or 5 of them now well 3400s anyway.

Must get it out actually
 
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