Nik's Poulan Thread

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jerrycmorrow said:
Regarding winter blend bar oil: I have, in the past, diluted my oil with canola oil. Anyone else?
Click to expand...
Straight from poulan owners manual =
In freezing weather oil will thicken, making

it necessary to thin bar and chain oil with a

small amount of Diesel Fuel #1 or

Kerosene.


Bar and chain oil must be free flowing for the oil system to pump enough oil for ad
equate lubrication.
1. USE THE FOLLOWING;
30"F or above—Lubricant—undiluted.
SO'^-O^F—95% lubricant to 5% Diesel Fuel

#1 or Kerosene.

Below 0°F—90% lubricant to 10% Diesel

Fuel #1 or Kerosene
 
Having a devil of a time with the oiler on the small gray craftoulan.
Both check valves function.
New line.
Everything seems sealed tight.
Passage from crankcase to oil tank is clear.
At high rpm I get a tiny bit of oil.
Going to try thinning the oil and if that don't work, I may try something drastic. I've thought about putting on a little longer line, bypassing the sump, and possibly use the set screw in the line gimmick that Stihl uses for tank vents for adjustment. Of course would have to add a filter of some sort as well. That would be redneckified for sure but we're approaching scrap bin time with this one. Patience wearing very thin.
Hopefully thinning the oil will fix it.
 
bob kern said:
Having a devil of a time with the oiler on the small gray craftoulan.
Both check valves function.
New line.
Everything seems sealed tight.
Passage from crankcase to oil tank is clear.
At high rpm I get a tiny bit of oil.
Going to try thinning the oil and if that don't work, I may try something drastic. I've thought about putting on a little longer line, bypassing the sump, and possibly use the set screw in the line gimmick that Stihl uses for tank vents for adjustment. Of course would have to add a filter of some sort as well. That would be redneckified for sure but we're approaching scrap bin time with this one. Patience wearing very thin.
Hopefully thinning the oil will fix it.
Click to expand...
We talking the little grey ones like these? Maybe you just have a bad oil pump?

Pull your oil pump and check your nylon gear in pump. Also look at worm gear on crank while off. Bet gear in pump stripping out or flat spotted.

I'm not doing any shipping this time of year though. Would have to wait till after New years for me to ship if needed.

That one was a runner with bad bar stud on pto cracked crankcase half. Only reason I parted it out. Didnt need anymore of these at the time as runners.

ppartsstash.jpg
lol2023.jpg
 
I have decided to not fix my trusty 4620 that has worked so hard for me (probably too hard) so I have some extra parts and pieces in good shape if anybody needs some. Pretty much everything on it was in really good shape except the piston (cylinder would have no guarantees). It has a 295 muffler and traditional clutch cover on it with bar nut chain adjuster. Once I decide on a new saw, if it doesn’t use the same bar, I’ll have a decent bar and multiple chains to go too.
 
bob kern said:
Having a devil of a time with the oiler on the small gray craftoulan.
Both check valves function.
New line.
Everything seems sealed tight.
Passage from crankcase to oil tank is clear.
At high rpm I get a tiny bit of oil.
Going to try thinning the oil and if that don't work, I may try something drastic. I've thought about putting on a little longer line, bypassing the sump, and possibly use the set screw in the line gimmick that Stihl uses for tank vents for adjustment. Of course would have to add a filter of some sort as well. That would be redneckified for sure but we're approaching scrap bin time with this one. Patience wearing very thin.
Hopefully thinning the oil will fix it.
Click to expand...


A pic of the saw would be helpful. I'm assuming it is a Top handle Micro. There is only one check valve held in a fitting (Bolt) just behind the clutch.

If that's working, look for a small hole towards the rear of the bar pad. If it's not there, it will be on the top of the oil tank. There needs to be a piece of wire in that hole. The hole is there to slowly relieve pressure in the oil tank so it doesn't keep oiling after the saw is shut off. If the wire is gone, the tank can't build pressure.

You could also try blocking the hole off with a piece of tape to see if that's the issue.
 
fossil said:
A pic of the saw would be helpful. I'm assuming it is a Top handle Micro. There is only one check valve held in a fitting (Bolt) just behind the clutch.

If that's working, look for a small hole towards the rear of the bar pad. If it's not there, it will be on the top of the oil tank. There needs to be a piece of wire in that hole. The hole is there to slowly relieve pressure in the oil tank so it doesn't keep oiling after the saw is shut off. If the wire is gone, the tank can't build pressure.

You could also try blocking the hole off with a piece of tape to see if that's the issue.
Click to expand...
Directly under the bar stud is a sump with a built in ball and spring check I believe. Passes air one way but not the other. I checked the one you mentioned as well. I did see tonight that the plate that pins in the sump was warped from over
View attachment VID_20220911_165639820.mp4
tightening somewhere along the way. I flattened it thinking it may not have been sealing. Seemed to help some.
The vent wire is in place.
 
bob kern said:
Directly under the bar stud is a sump with a built in ball and spring check I believe. Passes air one way but not the other. I checked the one you mentioned as well. I did see tonight that the plate that pins in the sump was warped from over
View attachment 1040296
tightening somewhere along the way. I flattened it thinking it may not have been sealing. Seemed to help some.
The vent wire is in place.
Click to expand...
The check valve behind the clutch is the one that provides tank pressure. Did you pull it out and check that it is actually working? The check rubber valve generally turns to goo over time.
 
fossil said:
The check valve behind the clutch is the one that provides tank pressure. Did you pull it out and check that it is actually working? The check rubber valve generally turns to goo over time.
Click to expand...
Yes I removed the screen, brass ring and duck bill. All was ok. I'm taking it to work tomorrow so I can run it for a minute at lunch. Too much going on tonight.
 
I have a question about poulan recoil parts, I have a 3700 I need a recoil pulley for, I've noticed that it is different from the 3400 I have. After searching I found this thread and after reading a lot of it I've read that the 4000 pulley should work with the 3700 flywheel, at $50 plus shipping I'd like to hear it from someone who has made the swap. Thanks to all that have shed some light and shared their info.
 
If the 3700 flywheel has the flat pawls like this pic, then yes either the pin type 3700 or the steel hub 4000 pulley will work fine. A photo of your current FW would help…

Have you seen the Tony Stankard Husqvarna 272 pulley clone workaround? It’s about a third of the “$50 plus shipping” cost, but is not an OEM restoration type repair.

1671073152944.jpeg

 

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