Nik's Poulan Thread

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Poulan in Greece

Hi guys, I'm from Greece.I have a Poulan 306A and need some spare parts.The problem is that in some site also checked, apart from not have it, do not send Greece.I need the cranksaft bearings and the cranksaft seals and maybe the piston.Can anyone help me?

Thanks in advance.

You have a supplier in Greece, DLA (ebay) I see the sponsers listed above do not have any either.
Find a IPL and I bet those are generic (common) bearings and seals though I am not familar with the insides of a 306.

Someone has an IPL on here Im sure. Find the part# you'll find the bearings

There were models of the 306 sold by Sears (craftsman too)
 
A (Big!) Poulan Whatzit.

My little sign at the end of the sidewalk paid off today. Two kids (25ish) with a tree service stopped by. Offered me this saw and I took 'em up on it. Trouble is, I have no idea what model it is.
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Has a 28" (?) Windsor sproket tip bar. F70T 6099 44264 are the numbers I can make out.

Has good compression by the feel but needs an air filter (gone). Looks like it had a chain brake at one time.

So, Whatzit?
 
245A and 306A air filters

I'm trying to find replacements for the filters I have. The "local" shops I've tried say they can't get them. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Also looking for a good 24" B&C for the 245, just in case someone has one.
Will try the swap meet thread but figured this would yield better info on the filters.

Ed
 
Ed,
Them air filters are kinda scarce. Once in awhile ya might find some on ebay from a closed up old saw shop.
The bars are available new. They use the D176 mount bars like lots of other Poulans. 306/245, 3400,3700,4000, 4200,5200 etc. Bailey's sells new Oregon Power Match bars in that mount.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Ed,
Them air filters are kinda scarce. Once in awhile ya might find some on ebay from a closed up old saw shop.
The bars are available new. They use the D176 mount bars like lots of other Poulans. 306/245, 3400,3700,4000, 4200,5200 etc. Bailey's sells new Oregon Power Match bars in that mount.

:cheers:
Gregg,

I was afraid of that with the air filter. Thanks. Figured the b&c would be much of a problem, just gotta do some pricing. One plave today quoted $150 for the set, seemed a tad high for standard Oregon set.

Thanks again,
Ed
 
Oh man you got burned....

My little sign at the end of the sidewalk paid off today. Two kids (25ish) with a tree service stopped by. Offered me this saw and I took 'em up on it. Trouble is, I have no idea what model it is.


Has a 28" (?) Windsor sproket tip bar. F70T 6099 44264 are the numbers I can make out.

Has good compression by the feel but needs an air filter (gone). Looks like it had a chain brake at one time.

So, Whatzit?

Oh man, ya got burned unfortunately. That is the rare (and they quickly pulled it from the market because it caused massive share drop on wall street) first attempt by Poulan to make a disposable cheap yuppie saw.....it was sold as the Poulan "Tame Thynge".

It originally was mauve and fuschia colored, obviously someone tried to at least fix that.

It's consumer fraud, less than one cubic inch, with a ridiculous long bar that don't fit nuthin else..throws chains every five seconds as well....tell ya whut, ship it to me and I can dispose of it clandestinely, and you won't suffer any embarrassment out trying to cut with it....
 
My little sign at the end of the sidewalk paid off today. Two kids (25ish) with a tree service stopped by. Offered me this saw and I took 'em up on it. Trouble is, I have no idea what model it is.
View attachment 201028
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View attachment 201029
attachment.php


View attachment 201030
attachment.php


Has a 28" (?) Windsor sproket tip bar. F70T 6099 44264 are the numbers I can make out.

Has good compression by the feel but needs an air filter (gone). Looks like it had a chain brake at one time.

So, Whatzit?




I believe what you have there is either a 655 or a 525 Poulan Pro, that has been treated kinda rough.
Be SURE to pull the muffler and check the piston and cylinder closely before you try to start and run that saw.
I have seen saws that felt like they had good compression but were actually scored.
Don't take the chance because those P/C's are made of unobtanium!!!


Mike
 
I bet those are generic (common) bearings and seals

I'll bet you whatever you want....

Hi guys, I'm from Greece.I have a Poulan 306A and need some spare parts.The problem is that in some site also checked, apart from not have it, do not send Greece.I need the cranksaft bearings and the cranksaft seals and maybe the piston.Can anyone help me?

Thanks in advance.

Sorry but the parts you seek, especially the piston are very hard to find. The brgs can be had, the flywheel side is a 6202 or a 6203 (I cant remember which for sure) but they have a snap ring groove in it on the outside of the outer race.

The clutch side is a torrington roller with the number written on it. (I should write more stuff down)

There was a member here who said he found the generic seal numbers for them but I found that at least one was wrong. The flywheel side seal can be had, but I have not been able to find a clutch side or oiler seal for them aftermarket. There really slim seals.

If you find some and need help shipping from the US, I would be able to help with that.
 
I believe what you have there is either a 655 or a 525 Poulan Pro, that has been treated kinda rough.
Be SURE to pull the muffler and check the piston and cylinder closely before you try to start and run that saw.
I have seen saws that felt like they had good compression but were actually scored.
Don't take the chance because those P/C's are made of unobtanium!!!


Mike

I'd go with the 525 as most 655s had manual oilers in addition tothe auto oiler.
Bob
 
My little sign at the end of the sidewalk paid off today. Two kids (25ish) with a tree service stopped by. Offered me this saw and I took 'em up on it. Trouble is, I have no idea what model it is.
View attachment 201028
attachment.php


View attachment 201029
attachment.php


View attachment 201030
attachment.php


Has a 28" (?) Windsor sproket tip bar. F70T 6099 44264 are the numbers I can make out.

Has good compression by the feel but needs an air filter (gone). Looks like it had a chain brake at one time.

So, Whatzit?

If you happen to get rid of it I would be very interested! LOL
 
If you happen to get rid of it I would be very interested! LOL

Ha! You already have one, I can see it in your avatar.:msp_tongue:

OK, we be looking for a manual oiler button to figure if it is a 525 or 655?

Them Windsor bar numbers mean anything?

I also got an Stihl 015L with it. Got it running tonight. Needs a choke knob and bar/chain.
 
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frustrating lil saw!

I finally got back to the poulan micro ive been messing with that does not oil i have 3 i bought recently and they are all running now but they dont oil... any ways one at a time... i reread the pdf manual on it and it only shows the pump housing and the one way check valve behinde the clutch...is this right? i took the check valve out and man it was gunked up i sprayed 1/2 can of carb cleaner through it...put it back on and that thing still wont oil... i swished the oil tank with gas fired it up and gas shot outthe oil port i thought there ya go... filled it with oil nadda????? thinned the oil nadda????also on a note when i really filled this thing with oil it was like the saw was smokin alot i mean alot!!!!! dont know what that means???? i drained it let it idle for a few minutes and it was fine filled it half way still fine... my next step is to swap out the oil pump with one i know is good???it has to be the pump ??? if any one hear has had this problem and figured it out please tell me what ya did . i have 3 other ones to mess with after this one i hope cleaning the chaeck valve works on them... also do they make the oil pumps for these still???i have a craftsman micro i may take it up to sears and let them run the numbers see if they do ...
 
Ha! You already have one, I can see it in your avatar.:msp_tongue:

OK, we be looking for a manual oiler button to figure if it is a 525 or 655?

Them Windsor bar numbers mean anything?

I also got an Stihl 015L with it (nonrunner), no spark.

On the Stihl, don't automatically assume it's the coil module that's bad. I had one that had intermittent spark and it turned out to be a shorted spark plug wire. They run that long wire inside the case and it snakes all around in there and the wire is thin so it is prone to shorting against the case, at least mine did. The man at the saw shop told me he replaced several of them.
 
On the Stihl, don't automatically assume it's the coil module that's bad. I had one that had intermittent spark and it turned out to be a shorted spark plug wire. They run that long wire inside the case and it snakes all around in there and the wire is thin so it is prone to shorting against the case, at least mine did. The man at the saw shop told me he replaced several of them.

Yep. Did the same thing with my 011AVEQ.
 
I finally got back to the poulan micro ive been messing with that does not oil i have 3 i bought recently and they are all running now but they dont oil... any ways one at a time... i reread the pdf manual on it and it only shows the pump housing and the one way check valve behinde the clutch...is this right? i took the check valve out and man it was gunked up i sprayed 1/2 can of carb cleaner through it...put it back on and that thing still wont oil... i swished the oil tank with gas fired it up and gas shot outthe oil port i thought there ya go... filled it with oil nadda????? thinned the oil nadda????also on a note when i really filled this thing with oil it was like the saw was smokin alot i mean alot!!!!! dont know what that means???? i drained it let it idle for a few minutes and it was fine filled it half way still fine... my next step is to swap out the oil pump with one i know is good???it has to be the pump ??? if any one hear has had this problem and figured it out please tell me what ya did . i have 3 other ones to mess with after this one i hope cleaning the chaeck valve works on them... also do they make the oil pumps for these still???i have a craftsman micro i may take it up to sears and let them run the numbers see if they do ...

I dont think you can blow out those check valves and clean them that way. I need to open one up sometime but I think they may have a duckbill valve inside.

You need to get a new or known good checkvalve to try.
 
I finally got back to the poulan micro ive been messing with that does not oil i have 3 i bought recently and they are all running now but they dont oil... any ways one at a time... i reread the pdf manual on it and it only shows the pump housing and the one way check valve behinde the clutch...is this right? i took the check valve out and man it was gunked up i sprayed 1/2 can of carb cleaner through it...put it back on and that thing still wont oil... i swished the oil tank with gas fired it up and gas shot outthe oil port i thought there ya go... filled it with oil nadda????? thinned the oil nadda????also on a note when i really filled this thing with oil it was like the saw was smokin alot i mean alot!!!!! dont know what that means???? i drained it let it idle for a few minutes and it was fine filled it half way still fine... my next step is to swap out the oil pump with one i know is good???it has to be the pump ??? if any one hear has had this problem and figured it out please tell me what ya did . i have 3 other ones to mess with after this one i hope cleaning the chaeck valve works on them... also do they make the oil pumps for these still???i have a craftsman micro i may take it up to sears and let them run the numbers see if they do ...

OK, you do not have a problem with the oiler. What you have is a leaking crank case and the smoke is the bar oil being sucked into the combustion side and burning. Usually you will also have fits tuning the saw as it will intermitantly suck air and run lean. The two halves of the crank case are glued together with no gasket and when there is a leak, the positive air pressure fed in from the crank case to the oil reservoir through the little valve cannot pressurise the oil and push it through the gallery to the bar. Sounds complicated but actually easy.
It is also an easy fix but needs a full strip down - do not be daunted it will not take long. The crank case halves come apart easily and the ones I have done and do not require a puller. The crank has roller bearings so you will not have trouble here. Only thing to watch is the big end of the conrod can slip to the starter side and you will loose all those cute little roller bearings.
While you have the crankcase halves apart check out the little oil tube and make sure it is OK. Fix it now as it is a tough fix from the outside.
Then clean up the old glue, apply some new adhesive and pop it back together. The seals won't be effected by the pull-down but check them and replace if necessary. I have never had to replace seals in these but seals last longer here in Oz with our better fuels. Not sure of your adhesive brands but I believe Yamabond is used there. Cant find many pics but these might help.

P7130848.jpg


P7130850.jpg


P7130852.jpg


Al.
 
I cropped that pic to get a close up - sorry about the quality. Hope it helps you get her going again.

Al.


P7130848-1.jpg
 

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