Nik's Poulan Thread

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thank you.

ugg i was trying to just get them running without a complete teardown i been buying ones in search of a mint micro and just selling any i did not like.... i may just break that one down as parts to get my money back its not in all thatgreatof shape cosmetically... or i may break it down as i have not had a micro all the way apart yet....awsome pics than you i see where the lil wire next to the oiler goes to now and i did not relize where that hole was in the check vave hole i may see if its all plugged up also...great pics







Nardoo said:
I cropped that pic to get a close up - sorry about the quality. Hope it helps you get her going again.

Al.


P7130848-1.jpg
Click to expand...
 
i have one.

i have a doner saw so im going to cut the screen and see whats in it as much gunk came out i was shocked...if there was a duck bill its disenagrated for sure LOL! its all good part of the learning process... think its time i took one aprt all the way .... it was a great learning experiance on the 25 da saws and i can get a look in side the crank case.. i have one that is scored so i will tear that one apart!




Modifiedmark said:
I dont think you can blow out those check valves and clean them that way. I need to open one up sometime but I think they may have a duckbill valve inside.

You need to get a new or known good checkvalve to try.
Click to expand...
 
thanks ya all!

wanted to say thanks for the post to help me with these micro saws i will keep ya all posted on how i make out.:msp_thumbup:
 
stubnail67 said:
wanted to say thanks for the post to help me with these micro saws i will keep ya all posted on how i make out.:msp_thumbup:
Click to expand...

The reason your saw is smoking so bad is the check valve is stuck open and letting oil bar oil back into the crankcase.

I just went through this same thing, smoking like crazy and smelled like motor oil burning. Changed the check valve in the crankcase and bam....fixed no more smoke and oiling like like it should.
 
Modifiedmark said:
I dont think you can blow out those check valves and clean them that way. I need to open one up sometime but I think they may have a duckbill valve inside.

You need to get a new or known good checkvalve to try.
Click to expand...


I agree, get another check valve and problem fixed.
 
redunshee said:
In closer looking I do see the manual oiler! Believe only the 655 had them but not positive.
Bob

PS: 405 has a smaller body than the 655 and 525. 455 I haven't seen.
Click to expand...

There is a button (plunger?) at the top of the front wrap. At first it looked like a fuel purge gadget but maybe a manual oiler due to the location.

Anyone have a picture of the air filter so I know what I'm looking for? Also needs a recoil pulley and a bigger pull rope handle.

Pumps only 115 psi so we are dissapointed. Havn't pulled the muffler yet.
 
Modifiedmark said:
I'll bet you whatever you want....



Sorry but the parts you seek, especially the piston are very hard to find. The brgs can be had, the flywheel side is a 6202 or a 6203 (I cant remember which for sure) but they have a snap ring groove in it on the outside of the outer race.

The clutch side is a torrington roller with the number written on it. (I should write more stuff down)

There was a member here who said he found the generic seal numbers for them but I found that at least one was wrong. The flywheel side seal can be had, but I have not been able to find a clutch side or oiler seal for them aftermarket. There really slim seals.

If you find some and need help shipping from the US, I would be able to help with that.
Click to expand...


Thank you very much, I greatly appreciate your offer to help me in the matter of sending.Having you made ​​the mistake now will suffer the consequences :laugh:

I mean that i need your help.I've sent you pm.
 
i think i got it!

ms460woodchuck said:
The reason your saw is smoking so bad is the check valve is stuck open and letting oil bar oil back into the crankcase.

I just went through this same thing, smoking like crazy and smelled like motor oil burning. Changed the check valve in the crankcase and bam....fixed no more smoke and oiling like like it should.
Click to expand...




changed out the check valve and she is oiling pretty good and no more smoke like i was smokin fish after i fill the oil tank !!!! hot dog! now i gotta try and find this part.... i have sears srvs center up the steet but ever since the older guy passed that worked there the young kids can never seem to pull up the right parts....im hopin a craftsman 2.0 top handle saws numbers will give me a part. also ive been using blue loctight on the threads i noticed a lil oil dribble from there the washer looks about whipped need one of those also... do ya all use the blue or the red loctight? thanks again fellas i think im on the right track now!!!!!
 
stubnail67 said:
changed out the check valve and she is oiling pretty good and no more smoke like i was smokin fish after i fill the oil tank !!!! hot dog! now i gotta try and find this part.... i have sears srvs center up the steet but ever since the older guy passed that worked there the young kids can never seem to pull up the right parts....im hopin a craftsman 2.0 top handle saws numbers will give me a part. also ive been using blue loctight on the threads i noticed a lil oil dribble from there the washer looks about whipped need one of those also... do ya all use the blue or the red loctight? thanks again fellas i think im on the right track now!!!!!
Click to expand...

Glad ya figured it out. Them check valves go bad from sitting is my opinion.;) Just make your own washer out of some gasket material and you should'nt need any loctight. Pretty sure the check valves are all the same on the micro saws.
 
ugggggg!!!

ms460woodchuck said:
Glad ya figured it out. Them check valves go bad from sitting is my opinion.;) Just make your own washer out of some gasket material and you should'nt need any loctight. Pretty sure the check valves are all the same on the micro saws.
Click to expand...




LMAO! the bad thing is i just got back from sears srvc center they say they are no longer available uggggg!!!!its number 6 on the parts diagram from a sears 2.0 model 358.355161 i checked sears . com myself and it says they are no longer available ....hmmmm ebay?where do ya all get them i may be scroungein around the local mowerpaces for some of these things LOL
 
Had a little issue with the 4900, I went to use it and start it, and it was like it was locked up, I couldn't pull for 5hit, then I got one pull, and another, and then I seen fuel mix coming out of the muffler, so I stood the saw up on the nose of the bar and the muffler pissed a ton of mix out. So finally got her running and about few mins in she runs out of fuel, damn, some how half a tank of fuel siphoned into the crank case. Guess I should stop playin with this thing and rebuild the carb. That my explain the rich running and not getting a good tune on the needles, mabe the inlet needle diaphram is shot??
 
Poulan 316avx leaks fuel

I've had this Poulan chainsaw for a few years. It doesn't get a whole lot of use. I went to fire it up - added gas, topped off the bar oil, checked the air filter.

When I prime it, I see no gasoline coming into the primer bulb but gas starts leaking out of the chainsaw from somewhere.

Does this mean a bad fuel filter or lines? I don't know where to start - including what to do with the gas - that maybe is past its prime?

Thanks Dennis
 
67L36Driver said:
My little sign at the end of the sidewalk paid off today. Two kids (25ish) with a tree service stopped by. Offered me this saw and I took 'em up on it. Trouble is, I have no idea what model it is.

View attachment 201030
attachment.php


Has a 28" (?) Windsor sproket tip bar. F70T 6099 44264 are the numbers I can make out.

Has good compression by the feel but needs an air filter (gone). Looks like it had a chain brake at one time.

So, Whatzit?
Click to expand...

Looks like a 655 to me, but I don't see a decomp button in the pics. It's got the 655 manual oiler and the right muffler for a 655. The decomp should be on the lower front, below the on/off switch.

If it's a 655, it's based on a 60 series pioneer, 98cc's. Most parts, including the air filter, are interchangeable.
 
8433jeff said:
Where else you gonna find one? If I wanted it, its not that out of line at $150.

But for some reason I will pass, I like you, have other things to spend said cash on, if I had said cash.
Click to expand...

My point exactly...

Edit:

Auction ended. Somebody got it for $152.50. Not bad at all for an NOS saw with the case and other bits (even if it's "just" a micro). Wonder how high the winning bidder was willing to go?:jester:
 
Last edited:
dsacks said:
I've had this Poulan chainsaw for a few years. It doesn't get a whole lot of use. I went to fire it up - added gas, topped off the bar oil, checked the air filter.

When I prime it, I see no gasoline coming into the primer bulb but gas starts leaking out of the chainsaw from somewhere.

Does this mean a bad fuel filter or lines? I don't know where to start - including what to do with the gas - that maybe is past its prime?

Thanks Dennis
Click to expand...



Dennis,

I think what you have there is a 3816 instead of a 316.
What you describe is definitely a sign of bad or unconnected fuel lines.
Where to start is dump the fuel that is in it into your lawnmower, log splitter or truck and pull the top cover off it and track all of your fuel lines down to see that they are connected.
Pinch them to make sure they are still pliable but not soft.
If they are hard....or soft (mushy soft) they will have to be replaced, and you may as well replace them anyway since you are into it this far.
The fuel lines can shrink where they go through the tank into the airbox and leak there.
The fuel purge system is a complete circut so if it is leaking WHILE you are pushing on the "primer" there is a definite disconnect there somewhere.
If your lines have clogged enough to rupture, or pop off of a fitting you may as well figure on a carb kit or a new carburetor because it will be fubar inside too.

Hope this helps and if you have any questions just give us a shout.


Mike
 
DSS said:
Looks like a 655 to me, but I don't see a decomp button in the pics. It's got the 655 manual oiler and the right muffler for a 655. The decomp should be on the lower front, below the on/off switch.

If it's a 655, it's based on a 60 series pioneer, 98cc's. Most parts, including the air filter, are interchangeable.
Click to expand...

The comp. release valve has been removed and replaced with a 1/4"-28 hex head cap screw and jam nut. (A short set screw would have been sooooo much neater.)

Saw fits the profile in my Clymer Chainsaw Repair Manual for a Poulan 655. The added manual oiler in particular. When I get around to pulling the muffler I'll measure the bore by popcicle method.

Needs a recoil pulley, an air filter and said comp. release valve. And, an IPL!!!!

The thing is identical to a Pioneer P62 from what I see.
 

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