Always, always, ALWAYAS!! dump the mix out of a 'new to you' saw. Saves heartache.
Nik's Poulan Thread
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Always, always, ALWAYAS!! dump the mix out of a 'new to you' saw. Saves heartache.
MS460WOODCHUCK
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Very good advice!!!
mactodd
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Your dad is/was (?) a very smart feller! :msp_thumbup:
FATGUY
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6 more big sleeps boys!
MS460WOODCHUCK
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6 more big sleeps boys!
6 too many Nik!
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
Poulan S25cva and 1800
So I've decided to try a new route with small top handle saws, I have Stihl 020 AVP's but have had "HORRIBLE" luck with JUNK or destroyed in shipping tank gaskets. Most are not OEM stihl or are defective so I'm back burnering my two for now.
I've bought some them cheap Poulan saws from eBay. A S25cva (liked color and case design) and a 1800 I think. So hows it going to compare to my Stihl's, I am pretty sure I'll like them better I'm a metal case head!!!
I have had many 3400/3700/3800 counter vibe saws from the same era and were great saws. (bought one those today too)
So any pointers, I'm new to the Micro series saws. Anything to watch out for? I of coarse will change lines and carb kit.
So I've decided to try a new route with small top handle saws, I have Stihl 020 AVP's but have had "HORRIBLE" luck with JUNK or destroyed in shipping tank gaskets. Most are not OEM stihl or are defective so I'm back burnering my two for now.
I've bought some them cheap Poulan saws from eBay. A S25cva (liked color and case design) and a 1800 I think. So hows it going to compare to my Stihl's, I am pretty sure I'll like them better I'm a metal case head!!!
I have had many 3400/3700/3800 counter vibe saws from the same era and were great saws. (bought one those today too)
So any pointers, I'm new to the Micro series saws. Anything to watch out for? I of coarse will change lines and carb kit.
On the micros I would say the fuel lines are the main thing since they're fairly long. These saws are getting older now so any you get will probably need changed. Fortunately that's an easy task. Some here have a little trouble with the oilers, I never have.
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
Micro saws for road tree removal
I need a good reliable small saw for my girlfreind to take to and from work in a tool box. Must be small and NOT HIGH COMPRESSION!!! shes left handed and not strong. She uses a Stihl 028WB now but it's to big for the truck box. The 020av I have either leak fuel or oil and am stick of that. It can not be $$$ either as its possible to get stolen in the truck box.
I live in the REMOTE mountains in Wa. and my other half travals 26 miles one way in the early morning hours on a road with now houses and TONS!! if not millions of tons of board feet of timber!!! theres a tree down across the road at least every 45 days, winter is almost daily. There is no traffic on this road and you could be hours waiting for someone or worst!!! OH yah theres no cell service either so shes on her own!!!
So is a Micro going to work or should I keep searching????????? is a S25 better??? this is a MUST HAVE so I have no issues spending some $ to make one functional (complete rebuild if needed) just don't want a $$ model saw as its eye candy for people that use the "5 finger discount" The saw will get trashed in the box with condensation and cold weather.
Thanks for the pointer, I always change lines on all saws I get. (saves LOTS of hair pulling!!! Oh yah I have none LEFT!!) I thought I was buying a S25 but turns out I bought a Micro 25cva and a 1800cva or ? they are Micros and both are have Counter vibe. I wanted a S25 too so it's next on the list.
I need a good reliable small saw for my girlfreind to take to and from work in a tool box. Must be small and NOT HIGH COMPRESSION!!! shes left handed and not strong. She uses a Stihl 028WB now but it's to big for the truck box. The 020av I have either leak fuel or oil and am stick of that. It can not be $$$ either as its possible to get stolen in the truck box.
I live in the REMOTE mountains in Wa. and my other half travals 26 miles one way in the early morning hours on a road with now houses and TONS!! if not millions of tons of board feet of timber!!! theres a tree down across the road at least every 45 days, winter is almost daily. There is no traffic on this road and you could be hours waiting for someone or worst!!! OH yah theres no cell service either so shes on her own!!!
So is a Micro going to work or should I keep searching????????? is a S25 better??? this is a MUST HAVE so I have no issues spending some $ to make one functional (complete rebuild if needed) just don't want a $$ model saw as its eye candy for people that use the "5 finger discount" The saw will get trashed in the box with condensation and cold weather.
The S25DA saw is a way batter saw then a micro, however it's tad bit heavier, and major parts are starting to get scarce. You can still get individual gaskets, rings, but the oil pump stuff I've had a hard time finding.
The Micro, I've had about 20 of em, so I'd say I know a little. Keep in mind this was a consumer saw but a good one that lasted over 30 years, thats the problem, some of the earlier ones are just worn out. You cannot get cylinders for the 1.8 and 2.0 saws any more. An aftermarket company still makes 2.0 36.5mm pistons. There is a cylinder and piston still available, it's from the S23 a 2.3 38cc saw. It's a good one too, chrome lined bore, with an unplated piston and dual piston rings, this makes a nice powerful engine, I rebuilt two this way. Unfortionatly Poulan just Obsoleted the gasket kits, although I've seen aftermarket kits on ebay. As for carbs, the I like the Tilly HU-10 or WA-19 on the 38cc engine, for the 2.0 33cc saws I found the WT-3 and WT-20 carbs work better because there smaller venturi.
Since all 30 and 33cc saws came with unplated cylinders you'll find a lot have been scored or just worn out.
The part numbers for the cylinder and piston are , 530012172, and 530069552. They run about $60 and the piston kit is $30. The older saws without the top rod bearings will have to be replaced with a lter model rod with top rod bearings. All Micro XXVs came without toprod bearings, only the very early 2000s came without toprod bearings.
6 more big sleeps boys!
Yup, along with a couple small naps. :still_dreaming: The older I get, the more fond of them I get.
Gregg,
Was checking out the Husqvarna site, and it seems the've downgraded Poulan Pro even more, as it's listed as a tactical brand and sold through North American retailers as consumer products. There isn't even any mention to Poulan themselves. I knew Husqvarna would be a bad thing for Poulan, as it's competition for their saws, thats why Poulan will forever now be a rebranded fisher price toy..............
MS460WOODCHUCK
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is true but I bet that the poulans out sell hukies own saws by a very large margin and they enjoy the money from that...
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
Micro S25cva
So I haven't seen my saw yet but it says Micro S25cva 16" on the side, its older still says counter vibe on the starter side, all metal handle. So is this model unlined too? I thought I read that some!! Micro S25 16 inch models were lined like the Poulan Pro versions. It doesn't matter really but I will not rebuild it if its not. Maybe I'll keep shopping also.
So I haven't seen my saw yet but it says Micro S25cva 16" on the side, its older still says counter vibe on the starter side, all metal handle. So is this model unlined too? I thought I read that some!! Micro S25 16 inch models were lined like the Poulan Pro versions. It doesn't matter really but I will not rebuild it if its not. Maybe I'll keep shopping also.
Yes true, didn't think of it that way.........
Nope thay take the standard 2.0 piston and cylinder. You have a very nice 2.0 model in the counter vibe. Could be rebuilt into the bigger cc saw too.
The later modeled 2350CVAs came with a chromed bore and inplated piston, basically the same engines as the S23. The CVAs on those saws are really nice, I had one and they really do dampen the vibes.
Eccentric
Mister Wizard
Well I did pick up the little red saw, only 25 dollars. Here are some additional pics.
Checked for spark has lots (solid state, gotta love it)
Fuel line seemed to be intact.
Piston looked good under the `stinger`contraption so I threw a little pre-mix down her carb. It Kicked on the 4 pull then stumbled and started to suck from the tank. not sure what he had mixed in it but she ran on it... from the smoke at least 24:1. maybe the Stinger was a fogger attachment for bees and wasps, hmm. It has about the diameter of a pencil, can you say restriction...
Looks like I will need to get the proper screw hardware, and a proper muffler pn 23604. Off to Poulan to see if they still have listings, Sears is NLA.
I could not find any specific IPL`s with Sear`s part number, Sear`s does not like Canadian pn`s:
but, it runs and those model numbers from Eccentric helped out to get me here.
I have good a piston, cylinder and spark so maybe all the other pn`s will be interchangeble.
I will start looking around.
Oh yeah the manual oiler works, not sure about the auto didn`t run it long enough with the mystery mix to find out.
Thanks Paulyb
edit: oops guess there is only one guide plate, and it has one
Looks like you've got a good one. A used muffler shouldn't be hard to find. Your saw should be a 358.350942 (this number does come up on the site). Those Cannuck numbers don't work at all on the partsdirect site, as you found out. Your saw should be a 2.1A (25DA) like mine. Measure the bore with a popsicle stick and a micrometer or callipers while you have the muffler off. That'll tell you for sure whether it's a 2.1/25 or a 2.3/S25. Not that it really matters too much at this point, since your P/C/Rings look fine. Is there still a decal on the starter cover? Should have 2.1 or 2.3 on it. I believe the 35094X saws were 2.1's, while the 35095X and 35096X saws were 2.3's.
timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
S25cva
Thanks for info, I doubt I'll rebuild it as it is stated to not be scored, but my luck lately is less than good ! We'll see how the girlfreind likes it, a little worn is good (less compression) easy for her to start. When it 15-20 degrees outside and 18" of snow piling up fast and your in the road with a tree down you just want it to start and run, and not rip outta your hand like MY saws.
Thanks for info, I doubt I'll rebuild it as it is stated to not be scored, but my luck lately is less than good ! We'll see how the girlfreind likes it, a little worn is good (less compression) easy for her to start. When it 15-20 degrees outside and 18" of snow piling up fast and your in the road with a tree down you just want it to start and run, and not rip outta your hand like MY saws.
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is the S25 a better saw?...............Yes it is!
BUT!
The micro will do a good job on anything the average woman will be able to move out of the way after she cuts it!!!
We ran a 2.3 Craftsman for years with a 16" Bar and it pulled it with authority as long as the tip was sticking out the other end.
If the wood got big enough to cover the radius of the bar nose it was dead in the water, but the same can be said about a LOT of much larger saws.
Keep LOTS of oil on the bar and chain as they will rust like hell, almost overnight, in a toolbox for some reason.
Mike
I will add, the saw I rebuilt with the S23 engine, I buried it in oak with a 16" bar, a oregon pro 91 with a 91 VXL chain and she ripped.
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timberdollars
ArboristSite Operative
Micros
Your right it need not be a big saw, most trees across the road are 8-20" alder or maple, she just has to go slow and cut them into 4 foot peices to move or winch outta the way.
Your right about rust too!!! have to check twice a week for rusted noses etc. (biggest issue where I live over 100" rain a year, but 1/2 that is snow anymore) I'll have it in a canvas bag to help some.
Anyone ever had issues with Micros not oiling in COLD weather, (15-30 degrees or less) my last 3.7 Poulan/craftman would hardly oil in freezing temps with bar oil, it was fine with lighter 10w30 or mixed oils but I hated changing oils all the time and rough on good bars.
Thanks again for the info.
Duane
Your right it need not be a big saw, most trees across the road are 8-20" alder or maple, she just has to go slow and cut them into 4 foot peices to move or winch outta the way.
Your right about rust too!!! have to check twice a week for rusted noses etc. (biggest issue where I live over 100" rain a year, but 1/2 that is snow anymore) I'll have it in a canvas bag to help some.
Anyone ever had issues with Micros not oiling in COLD weather, (15-30 degrees or less) my last 3.7 Poulan/craftman would hardly oil in freezing temps with bar oil, it was fine with lighter 10w30 or mixed oils but I hated changing oils all the time and rough on good bars.
Thanks again for the info.
Duane
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