Nik's Poulan Thread

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a. palmer jr.
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I'd try heat shrink. Sure would make a neater looking job than tape. Heat shrink might not keep wire from arcing to ground. Depends on the voltage rating but at least it's made for insulating wire where fuel line isn't. I guess you could try though.

Many people don't know it but heat shrink comes in different ratios of shrinkage. They have 3:1, 4:1 etc. So you could get 2:1 in 1/4" and it would shrink down to 1/8" or you could get 4:1 in 1/2" and it would shrink down to 1/8" but the tubing would be twice as thick and would be better insulation, assuming clearance is not a problem.
 
67L36Driver
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I'm gonna be replacing my Poulan 3700 flywheel with one that has all it's fins in the coming days and was wondering the best way to remove the old flywheel since it is sunken in and looks hard to get a puller on it or anything around or under it.

I have been using a steering wheel puller by removeing the starter ratchet dogs and threading long 10-24 (some use 12-24) socket head cap screws in those holes.

Tighten the puller and a firm tap to the flywheel (when you can get a shot at it.) or center puller bolt.
 
redunshee

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I'd try heat shrink. Sure would make a neater looking job than tape. Heat shrink might not keep wire from arcing to ground. Depends on the voltage rating but at least it's made for insulating wire where fuel line isn't. I guess you could try though.

Sounds like a great idea though I have to admit I don't do this myself. Guess I should but I just remove the old wrapping. GUess one problem would be getting the heat shrink over the connectors.
 
redunshee

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I have been using a steering wheel puller by removeing the starter ratchet dogs and threading long 10-24 (some use 12-24) socket head cap screws in those holes.

Tighten the puller and a firm tap to the flywheel (when you can get a shot at it.) or center puller bolt.

Good idea but not really necesary. Simply hit the non magnetic side of the flywheel with a good hard rubber hammer and it'll pop right off.
 
67 Mustang

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Sounds like a great idea though I have to admit I don't do this myself. Guess I should but I just remove the old wrapping. GUess one problem would be getting the heat shrink over the connectors.

Kinda forgot about the connector. Guess I thought everybody had a bunch of spade connectors lying around. :msp_unsure:
 
67 Mustang

67 Mustang

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Many people don't know it but heat shrink comes in different ratios of shrinkage. They have 3:1, 4:1 etc. So you could get 2:1 in 1/4" and it would shrink down to 1/8" or you could get 4:1 in 1/2" and it would shrink down to 1/8" but the tubing would be twice as thick and would be better insulation, assuming clearance is not a problem.

Wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info.
 
FATGUY

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I got this little 3314 for $59 brand new. I thought it ran pretty good for only 33 cc's. Then I checked the EPA tag and it says it is 42cc. I sure am not complaining....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

what kinda saw is that wierd looking orange one?:yoyo::yoyo:
























:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:
 
dave76

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Here's a new WT-89.

NEW POULAN CHAINSAW CARBURETOR ASSEMBLY 548081885 WT89 | eBay

Some of the sponsors may be able to source also.

Funny you mention that carb as I bought it, it's actually a WT-891 replacement carb which measures out to............11.11 mm,,,,,, sooooo It's still not big enough. The only difference with the 2900 series WT-285 carb is you don't have a primer bulb line and it take s a bit finagling with the air box and choke to get it to work.
 
dave76

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I got this little 3314 for $59 brand new. I thought it ran pretty good for only 33 cc's. Then I checked the EPA tag and it says it is 42cc. I sure am not complaining....:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Yeah 42cc, actually the plastic usage on these saws seems to have been taken to a new level. The last Wildthing I worked on (4218) :blob2:shows what happens when everything plastic is overheated to it's boiling point Lol.
 
Warped5

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what kinda saw is that wierd looking orange one?:yoyo::yoyo:


That is the replacement for my Craftsman/Poulan 4200 that I lost when my barn burned down. The insurance company gave me $27 for it. It looked and ran like new. That realy pissed me off. I used that saw for 28 years, it was the best tool I have ever owned. Poulan haters will never understand, they built some really good stuff. I had replacement cost insurance so I went to my local saw shop with my owners manual and handed it to them. I told them that I wanted a saw equal to what I had, with a 24 and a 16 inch bar. It came to $809. I later bought a great 4200 on Craigs list for about $100. It is not as pretty as the Craftsman I owned but it runs as well and pumps 180 pounds of compression. It will last me the rest of my life. If the insurance company would have just given me a fair amount for my saw ($100-$200) I would not have replaced it.
I am to old and gimpy to use those big saws...but now I am infected with cad and own a 8500....and several other larger saws. It isn't my fault....so many saws so little time...I think I should sue my insurance company for my CAD problem. I had a nice three saw plan, I was a happy camper, now it's a 50 saw plan...
:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

I can provide a nice home to some of your 'orphans' ..... :chainsaw:
 
a. palmer jr.
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I usually try that first only with a 6oz ball peen. The hard cases get the puller and healthy wack.

Yes, I have broken off fins. I need new bifocals.

I guess it would be worth a try since I won't be re-using the flywheel anyway. This flywheel doesn't have the dogs on it anyway, it engages in the notched cup in the center of the flywheel, kinda like some of the Stihls.
 
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Modifiedmark
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I have been using a steering wheel puller by removeing the starter ratchet dogs and threading long 10-24 (some use 12-24) socket head cap screws in those holes.

Tighten the puller and a firm tap to the flywheel (when you can get a shot at it.) or center puller bolt.

Carl, I dont think you have used that puller on a 3400 lately.

The 3400 saw has pressed in pins holding the starter pawls, not bolts and the flywheel is not threaded.

I hit em with a hammer to remove those flywheels, just like it says in the Poulan service manual.
 
redunshee

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I guess it would be worth a try since I won't be re-using the flywheel anyway. This flywheel doesn't have the dogs on it anyway, it engages in the notched cup in the center of the flywheel, kinda like some of the Stihls.

I thought you were pulling the flywheel from a 3700? Doesn't sound like it.
Bob
 

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