Nik's Poulan Thread

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Did you get the 475 carb issue sorted out? I have the same issue with a red saw I was sorting out this past weekend. It won't idle down and I think it's sucking air. I'm going to put new crank seals in it to see.

If he's still working on it he has more patience than I. Seems like it's been more than a month since he started working on it.
 
It does look good. That clutch assembly just got me interested in reading how the clutch works on a chainsaw. I'll have to look up some reading material.
 
Do you guys know if there is a good way to refinish a bar that is kinda rusty like the one in this picture? Don't mind the saw, it's long gone.

20140930_190750.jpg
 
Do you guys know if there is a good way to refinish a bar that is kinda rusty like the one in this picture? Don't mind the saw, it's long gone.

View attachment 394086
Depends if you plan on cutting with the bar or using as a display saw.
Display- sand - paint or clear coat- paint will not hold up very long if cutting.
Cutting - sand progressively to light grade paper watching around the rivets and oil it up. But, before you go into all the work of making a bar nice and shiny make sure it is strait and the guide rails are even and square.
 
Depends if you plan on cutting with the bar or using as a display saw.
Display- sand - paint or clear coat- paint will not hold up very long if cutting.
Cutting - sand progressively to light grade paper watching around the rivets and oil it up. But, before you go into all the work of making a bar nice and shiny make sure it is strait and the guide rails are even and square.

Thanks, I would be using it. I figured some sort of sanding might bring it back some.
 
Do you guys know if there is a good way to refinish a bar that is kinda rusty like the one in this picture? Don't mind the saw, it's long gone.

I've had good success with using mild to moderate concentration acid to remove the rust. It works well on pitting when you cannot surface remove mechanically.

I've wrapped the bars in towels soaked in acetic acid (vinegar) for up to 12hrs or so and used a scotch bright pressed onto an orbital sander. They clean up very well. A faster approach is to use sulphamic acid (crystals used to clean efflorescence or grout haze) solution. This can be found at a Home Depot or similar. A stronger solution can be mixed that will literally wipe off rust on contact. Hydrochloric acid (Muratic) can be diluted (always add acid to water carefully) to similar effect. I prefer sulphamic acid. It also does a pretty good job to etch tanks after mechanical rust removal prior to Red Kote etc.

The sulphamic acid has a similar effect to CLR but can be made stronger and is much cheaper to use around the house for similar applications. As with all acid, wear gloves, eye protection and have good ventilation. When using stronger solutions check the bar frequently and stop the process when the rust has been lifted. Often I simply wipe on with a sponge, scrub and the rust is gone without needing to soak if rust or tarnish is superficial. Rinse well, dry and buff with a preferred method. The bars can be polished to a fairly high sheen, oiled and put to work if you are into that sort of thing.
 
Did you get the 475 carb issue sorted out? I have the same issue with a red saw I was sorting out this past weekend. It won't idle down and I think it's sucking air. I'm going to put new crank seals in it to see.
Did you get the 475 carb issue sorted out? I have the same issue with a red saw I was sorting out this past weekend. It won't idle down and I think it's sucking air. I'm going to put new crank seals in it to see.
Not yet. Waiting for some parts to reassemble the saw. I may have to redo a pressure/vac test just to confirm there are no air leaks. Other than that it has to be the carb.
 
If he's still working on it he has more patience than I. Seems like it's been more than a month since he started working on it.
Well, I like to make work for myself. Removed chainbrake assembly and spring flew across garage never to be seen again. All I wanted to do was clean it. So I ordered some new parts and am waiting. Saw is just sitting. That and when I sold a 3700 I tried to show guy a 3400. Wouldn't start. Amazing how a saw just sitting for a year develops problems. Worked on that this weekend but still is a bear to start. At least 7-8 pulls when cold. At least its starts and runs good though.
 
Well, I like to make work for myself. Removed chainbrake assembly and spring flew across garage never to be seen again. All I wanted to do was clean it. So I ordered some new parts and am waiting. Saw is just sitting. That and when I sold a 3700 I tried to show guy a 3400. Wouldn't start. Amazing how a saw just sitting for a year develops problems. Worked on that this weekend but still is a bear to start. At least 7-8 pulls when cold. At least its starts and runs good though.

Yeah I can't leave well enough alone either. Only difference with me vs you guys is I don't know what the hell I'm doing.

Assuming you run the saw until all fuel is gone, what are some issues that could develop with it sitting? I tried to store my Makita in the downstairs bathroom but my wife freaked out and took it outside. So, the saw will have to live in the unheated shed. Supposedly she smelled gasoline but I think it was really bar oil she was smelling. The Poulan is in the bathroom though but it may be kicked out too.

Also, do you think I need one of those pressure test thingies? I probably don't have enough saws to warrant one though.
 
She just does not understand. Those poor saws need attention too. :cry: At least wrap them in a blankie if you have to take them outside! :cold: If they get too cold they might get sick.

I keep thinking if I reorganize the garage I might just be able to free up some shelf space or make room for new shelves for more saws.
 

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