Nik's Poulan Thread

[jerrycmorrow]

Thanks for the manual! I also uploaded several manuals in a posting a few messages higher up in this thread.

I'm going to persist with the fuel line simply because I started... but the piston (and therefore probably the cylinder) is/are scarred.
I got 100 pressure using an inexpensive car compression tester. I'm guessing a healthy engine would give 120 or higher right?

I may just decide to put this machine to one side until I've built up some more expertise on other equipment..
and then decide if I want to pay the cost for parts.. at least those parts ARE available.. at a price.

Not sure why I think this might be interesting to anyone.. but here's a picture of the trashed piston looking through the exhaust port.
I guess when you've seen one you've seen them all.

based on hard experience I recommend you not wait too long ordering your new piston. parts for old saws have been known to suddenly become unobtainable through poulan, sears and other parts outlets.
should go ahead and pull the cylinder so you can see if it can be cleaned up before you order parts.
just be VERY methodical - pictures, plastic bags, small boxes, etc. - when disassembling the saw. makes reassembly much easier if you have a how-to record and your parts are easily at hand.
another hard learned lesson here.

 

[TreeFan001]

Great advice - thanks!

If I can get away with just the piston kit it might be worth it.
If nothing else... it's a great way to learn!
But if the cylinder is toast too I may change my mind.

As you suggested... be methodical... I am being a bit anal-retentive with my photos from all angles.
I'm still at that stage where I know just enough to be dangerous... but at least I know it!

BTW.. what a great forum.. so many people willing to help and give advice!

 

[blk05crew]

You guys with the bigger Counter Vibes with bigger bars, do you all run 3/8 chain or 404?

 

[TreeFan001]

Wright 122 Chainsaw (aka Poulan S25DA)

I am trying to tear down the saw to take a peek inside the cylinder to see if it is scratched up.

I can't see how to get the clutch cylinder off. I don't want to try brute force in case I'm missing something.
Any ideas?

In this picture, I believe I need to get at the screw marked with a green arrow (hard to see) to get the body split apart so I can get to the engine bolts.

If that's correct, the drum is in the way and so I need to get the clutch drum and sprocket off.
However, the drum and sprocket does not just "lift off" like I've seen in another (newer) chainsaw.

The drum seems to be held on securely at the location marked by the yellow arrow.
Does anyone know what I should do next to get the drum off?

 

[Acornhill]

I run both but prefer 404 on my 32 36" bars

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[Acornhill]

Should slide right off probably rusted on

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[TreeFan001]

Should slide right off probably rusted on

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OK Thanks... I'll go with brute force.... I'm just a little nervous about breaking parts that may no longer be available.

 

[blk05crew]

I run both but prefer 404 on my 32 36" bars

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So I'd have to get a new sprocket correct? Are the sprockets available anywhere?

 

[Acornhill]

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Yes they are available

 

[blk05crew]

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Yes they are available

Through a parts company or is it something you have to find on ebay?

 

[s sidewall]

Thanks for the manual! I also uploaded several manuals in a posting a few messages higher up in this thread.

I'm going to persist with the fuel line simply because I started... but the piston (and therefore probably the cylinder) is/are scarred.
I got 100 pressure using an inexpensive car compression tester. I'm guessing a healthy engine would give 120 or higher right?

I may just decide to put this machine to one side until I've built up some more expertise on other equipment..
and then decide if I want to pay the cost for parts.. at least those parts ARE available.. at a price.

Not sure why I think this might be interesting to anyone.. but here's a picture of the trashed piston looking through the exhaust port.
I guess when you've seen one you've seen them all.

Not all trashed pistons look the same, some look like hard road rash and you wonder what to operator was doing. Best ones are newbes with their first saw and been straight gassed and ran the crap out of til it locked up. That's when you want a camera to take their dumb look on their face.

Steve

 

[s sidewall]

[emoji24]

 

[Modifiedmark]

1/8" x 3/16" is what is called for. I have found a batch of Tygon at that dimension a tad loose with the barbed vent fitting and fuel line. A bit of sealant around lines afterwards to help. 3/32" x 3/16" is another option. It will seal tighter at the vent if 1/8" is sloppy.

One tank on my 3400's does not like the 1/8" at the vent. Too loose.

Randy I think what you found is the holes in the plastic tank have stretched out and thats why the proper size line will not fit tight anymore.

When I run across one like that I find the .117x.211 line fits like a glove.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thanks for the manual! I also uploaded several manuals in a posting a few messages higher up in this thread.

I'm going to persist with the fuel line simply because I started... but the piston (and therefore probably the cylinder) is/are scarred.
I got 100 pressure using an inexpensive car compression tester. I'm guessing a healthy engine would give 120 or higher right?

I may just decide to put this machine to one side until I've built up some more expertise on other equipment..
and then decide if I want to pay the cost for parts.. at least those parts ARE available.. at a price.

Not sure why I think this might be interesting to anyone.. but here's a picture of the trashed piston looking through the exhaust port.
I guess when you've seen one you've seen them all.

You need to know exactly what model you have before you try to get parts for it.

I have seen the 122A listed as either a 2.1 or a 2.3CI saw so that needs to be confirmed before you know what you need for parts.

You also need to know if its electronic or point ignition as the cylinders are different also.

Get it apart and post the piston dia and someone will tell you which model it is.

 

[s sidewall]

Wright 122 Chainsaw (aka Poulan S25DA)

I am trying to tear down the saw to take a peek inside the cylinder to see if it is scratched up.

I can't see how to get the clutch cylinder off. I don't want to try brute force in case I'm missing something.
Any ideas?

In this picture, I believe I need to get at the screw marked with a green arrow (hard to see) to get the body split apart so I can get to the engine bolts.

If that's correct, the drum is in the way and so I need to get the clutch drum and sprocket off.
However, the drum and sprocket does not just "lift off" like I've seen in another (newer) chainsaw.

The drum seems to be held on securely at the location marked by the yellow arrow.
Does anyone know what I should do next to get the drum off?

May want to soak it down with penetrating oil and try twisting it off to prevent any damage.

Steve

 

[Majorpayne]

What saw is this? The decals are gone and all I can find is serial number.

 

[blk05crew]

What saw is this? The decals are gone and all I can find is serial number.

Looks like a S25DA to me.

 

[TreeFan001]

Wright 122 Chainsaw (aka Poulan S25DA)

Anyone got some cheese and crackers to go with this whine?
Still tearing down this puppy. Still feeling like a newb and wondering what kind of S&M game I'm playing here.

The designer of this saw managed to pack more bits and pieces into a tiny enclosed space than seems humanly possible!
Gotta love the screws that can't be reached because there's a crankshaft where the screwdriver should go.
And as for that manual oiler rod.... I'm afraid brute force was probably not my best option! We live and learn.

My final moment of anxiety has arrived.
I have the cylinder unbolted but the piston rings are clinging to the cylinder like they just don't want to come out.
Is this another case of "just give it a good yank" or will that result in 27 piece of broken piston ring flying across the room and a trashed cylinder?

Seriously though.. is there anything I need to do other than just use brute force to pull the cylinder off the piston?
It's hard to imagine how there could be any way of compressing the rings from the outside but I thought I'd ask before I totally trash this thing.

 

[Acornhill]

It already looks scored badly on the skirt

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[TreeFan001]

Yes I know the piston is trashed.. I saw that from the exhaust port... what I want to see is the inside of the cylinder.
If I could just buy a piston set.. I might consider it... but if the cylinder is trashed too.... then I would have to think long and hard.
So do I just pull the cylinder off? Or is there some way to finesse the piston rings?