"No belly" bar suggestions?

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B_Turner

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I've been starting to think about coming up with a bar in the 36 or maybe 42 inch length range with at least one edge being totally flat (except for the tip of course) instead of having a belly.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to come up with such a bar? Like maybe some brand of regular bar that has very little belly on the edge and has a deep enough groove to grind the edge flat the entire length.

It's a specialized application and at this point I am not quite ready to order a custom made bar due to the expense. Or maybe a custom company could take a stock bar: grind it flat on one edge and regroove it for a more reasonabe fee. It would not be run that often, so I don't need any special steel like a Cannon.

Also anyone have any experience with longish bars with no belly on either side? Would a chain even stay on a bar like that?

The ideal bar for the application I am thinking is flat on both edges (no belly) and a bit more narrow than stock bars (same thickness, but narrower).
 
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I believe it was Andy (Lakeside) who has posted some links to a company who does custom bar work at a real reasonable price. I could be wrong though may have been Slinger or Windy???

Anyway someone here knows a shop up your way that can regrind and regrove a bar for you.

I have a few sloppy tricks that have worked on some small scale repairs and tail mods but nothing I think would really benefit you unless it was your only option.

Try a search for "bar repair" by the guys above and see what turns up.

Good Luck :cheers:
 
http://www.chainbar.com/

Good guys to deal with!

Ed

Thanks, that's good to know, as I've seen their site but don't know anyone that's dealt with them.

I just called them, and that's something the've done before. I think I'll send them a bar or two.

The total dl count will be less, so this means I'll have another size of loops I need....
 
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BT, I was thinking you have a Stihl Bar.........if not.


This is a 3002 mount 41" bar.
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Gary

I have several ES bars, but have in mind something dead straight for this application.

blsnelling, the reason for a straight bar is to be able to cut up to a straight edge when shaping wood with a saw.
 
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Thanks, that's good to know, as I've seen their site but don't know anyone that's dealt with them.

I just called them, and that's something the've done before. I think I'll send them a bar or two.

The total dl count will be less, so this means I'll have another size of loops I need....

I've dealt with them at least a dozen times. Top notch, professional, great work and I consider them a bargain for what they accomplish.
 
I would think that a long bar would need some curve in order to keep enough tension on the chain to keep it from coming out of the bar grooves. As the bar length gets longer the chain would be easy to pull out of the grooves on a perfectly flat bar. I would think that the bigger the curve the less tension you would need on the chain - and a long flat bar would require lots of chain tension to keep the chain in contact out in the middle of the bar.
 
I would think that a long bar would need some curve in order to keep enough tension on the chain to keep it from coming out of the bar grooves. As the bar length gets longer the chain would be easy to pull out of the grooves on a perfectly flat bar. I would think that the bigger the curve the less tension you would need on the chain - and a long flat bar would require lots of chain tension to keep the chain in contact out in the middle of the bar.

That is a concern of mine as well, and I certainly not use this bar for any "normal" work.

That company said the outfit that had them make some straight bars is not having any real problem keeping chains on with what they do either.

So I'll give it a try as it will allow me to do cuts I cannot do presently.
 
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