Non-Cat Muffler for Echo CS-450

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I realize that the topic of muffler modding an Echo chainsaw has been done to death, and while I have read threads regarding how to open an Echo CS-450, remove the CAT and then re-weld, I was wondering if anyone knew of a similar muffler, perhaps from an older line of Echo chainsaw that would simply bolt up and save all that work?
 
I realize that the topic of muffler modding an Echo chainsaw has been done to death, and while I have read threads regarding how to open an Echo CS-450, remove the CAT and then re-weld, I was wondering if anyone knew of a similar muffler, perhaps from an older line of Echo chainsaw that would simply bolt up and save all that work?

You don't have to tear apart the muffler and re-weld. All you need to do is remove the muffler and put a few drill holes into the "catalytic biscuit"--really tear it up. Then you can just use a pair of sturdy needle-nose pliers to "wind out" the biscuit like a ribbon. Clean it up good, blow the chips out, re-install. Easy-peasy.
 
You don't have to tear apart the muffler and re-weld. All you need to do is remove the muffler and put a few drill holes into the "catalytic biscuit"--really tear it up. Then you can just use a pair of sturdy needle-nose pliers to "wind out" the biscuit like a ribbon. Clean it up good, blow the chips out, re-install. Easy-peasy.
Thank you very much. That seems like very good advice. I will give it a try. I would guess from what you are saying, is that once I remove the muffler, I will easily identify the "catalytic biscuit." I have yet to remove the muffler. I heard the catalytic converter is over to one side. I guess I will find out when I remove the muffler which will be shortly. The saw has not yet arrived, but expect it within three days. Thanks again.
 
Don't know about the 450 but from some internet searching I was able to figure out the non-cat model of my Echo 341 and order a muffler. I found the right part on Bailey's website.
 
You don't have to tear apart the muffler and re-weld. All you need to do is remove the muffler and put a few drill holes into the "catalytic biscuit"--really tear it up. Then you can just use a pair of sturdy needle-nose pliers to "wind out" the biscuit like a ribbon. Clean it up good, blow the chips out, re-install. Easy-peasy.
You don't have to tear apart the muffler and re-weld. All you need to do is remove the muffler and put a few drill holes into the "catalytic biscuit"--really tear it up. Then you can just use a pair of sturdy needle-nose pliers to "wind out" the biscuit like a ribbon. Clean it up good, blow the chips out, re-install. Easy-peasy.

Thanks again for your advice. Once I got the muffler off, I saw what you meant. While I was not so lucky as to be able to simply unwind the catalytic biscuit, I was able to drill and basically grind it from its circular mooring. I use an air compressor to blow out the muffler. As far as the deflector, I removed that and ground off the little half plate shelf inside the main deflector. I also opened up the blocked closed end of the chute, and used that as the main exhaust portal. On the muffler itself, where the deflector mounts, I also opened the exhaust window up to its fully allowable limits. You will see what I mean when you do it. This is the space where the spark arrester screen will be placed. This sure beats cutting the muffler open and welding it back closed again. The muffler was the most restrictive that I have ever seen - period. It was absolutely insane to have such a restrictive device installed on a chainsaw of this size. Seriously, I think it was twice as restrictive as most openings for a 30 cc chainsaw, and this saw was 45 cc! By the way, the muffler weighed in at .78 lbs (decimal reading). You would think they could design something lighter! Anyway, I just wish to re-state some of what Jl4c had previously said in a slightly different manner to provide readers of a more complete understanding of what they will see when they remove the muffler. As you look into the intake side of the muffler, you will see that there is solid steel partition plate that literally runs across the entire inside dimension of the muffler. Located somewhat to the right, you will see a slightly elevated steel ring about 1.1 " in diameter. Inside that ring is what was referred to as the biscuit. It is a circular wrapped honey comb that is fitted inside that steel ring I mentioned. Just as Jl4c said, all you have to do is drill it out with a power tool. I used a 1/4" drill bit, as much of a grinder as a drill and simply deconstructed it from the ring, and blew out the muffler. I would see no advantage in drilling extra holes in that metal partition that I mentioned. That would only make the muffler more noisy, and the large open ring provides all the back pressure relief that you will need. Carb limiters, were removed, and the saw re-tuned. Until you actually do this, you will never believe what a tremendous increase in power can be achieved. I hate to do an estimate of power, as I don't have a dynamometer, but it has got to be putting out 3 HP or slightly more. I don't believe the Stihl MS-250 really puts out 3 hp as advertised, as this Echo CS-450 now leaves it in the dust - saw dust that is. My Echo is a slightly older Kiortz model and tested at 170 psi compression, and it is clean inside the cylinder, not all coked up.
 
Until you actually do this, you will never believe what a tremendous increase in power can be achieved.

Glad to hear that your experience mirrored mine. You are correct that the muffler outlet needs to be opened up. Once this mod is done, the CS-450 really comes alive. And the automotive type air filter on this saw is terrific. Performance is still not the equivalent of a 346XP (which I sold my CS-450 to get) but it's darn good.
 
I realize that this is an old thread, but just incase someone reads it through to gain information, I wish to add the following. I have now muffler modded quite a few CS-450 chainsaws. Simplest way is to just drill out the offset cat from a bit of an angle, but don't worry, you will get it done. If you wish to substitute a non-cat muffler, the bolt pattern and exhaust line up perfectly with non-cat mufflers from the CS-440, CS-520, (same gasket). Remove the deflector and screen. You will see a 3/8" ID pipe. You don't have to take it out, (some do) but drill holes all around it. I leave only enough material to stabilize the 3/8" pipe. Clean the muffler out with an air compressor or wash it good in soap water, rinse, and dry thoroughly. Finally, you need to cut open the front edges of the deflector to allow more air flow. Its sort of like making a chute. You can now re-install the screen and deflector. Remember to remove the limiters and re-adjust the carburetor. I usually adjust the low jet to around 1 5/8 turns out, and the high at about 3 1/8 turns out. You will probably need to lean up a little, but this will get you close. Lots of threads on how to tune a carburetor, so just do a little research.
 
Switching from regular .325 to ..325 NK really makes these saws cut or 3/8 lp from a CS400 sprocket, chain and bar is even better. The sprocket from the CS400 is as bit too wide and needs to be machined or ground down just a little. Before changing the chain my CS400 and CS450 were about dead even, now the CS450 cuts like crazy. Steve
 
Switching from regular .325 to ..325 NK really makes these saws cut or 3/8 lp from a CS400 sprocket, chain and bar is even better. The sprocket from the CS400 is as bit too wide and needs to be machined or ground down just a little. Before changing the chain my CS400 and CS450 were about dead even, now the CS450 cuts like crazy. Steve
Hey, Steve! I knew about the sprocket from the CS-400 fitting the CS-440 with some width reduction on the sprocket tooth portion, but to verify, are you saying that the CS-400 sprocket will also work with the CS-450 as well as the CS-440? If so, that is my next project. More to learn everyday!
 
I realize that the topic of muffler modding an Echo chainsaw has been done to death, and while I have read threads regarding how to open an Echo CS-450, remove the CAT and then re-weld, I was wondering if anyone knew of a similar muffler, perhaps from an older line of Echo chainsaw that would simply bolt up and save all that work?
I just tried to mod a 450p muffler, I tried cutting along the seam and removing the top of the muffler case.....no go! had to get it welded back together. A better option was to drill 3x 3/8" holes close to the cat, then use a Dremel to enlarge the opening in the exhaust gasket and put a fish gill cut in the exhaust guide. Remove the tabs from the carb jet screws and tune the saw in the wood while cutting.
 
I realize that the topic of muffler modding an Echo chainsaw has been done to death, and while I have read threads regarding how to open an Echo CS-450, remove the CAT and then re-weld, I was wondering if anyone knew of a similar muffler, perhaps from an older line of Echo chainsaw that would simply bolt up and save all that work?
Wow, lots of hard work there. The cat in a CS-450 muffler is partially offset. You are going to hate this answer, but you can literally drill it out if you are patient. Get yourself a 1/2" drill bit and literally grind the cat out of there. Make sure you do a good job of blowing out the metal particles. I use a high pressure air hose, but you might want to flush it with soapy water and rinse. Once the cat is removed, just reshape and open the exhaust guide to provide better exhaust flow. The CS-450, and CS-530 are the two worst Echo mufflers to modify. The CS-450 is a good well built solid long lasting saw, just a little heavy for the displacement, but reliable as taxes from the government.
 
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