Noob background and question...

[Red_Label]

Hi all. I've been lurking on this site for a few days and wanted to post some background and a question.

I'm new to chainsaws. Actually, I don't even have mine yet. I won an Ebay auction for a new Echo CS-400, but haven't yet received it. I did do some research and even handled some other brands (inlcluding several Husqvarna models), but the Echo CS-370 and 400 just "spoke" to me I guess. So I thought I'd go with the bigger model.

This urge to finally acquire a saw (after 40 years of life in WY and MT) came after the power company recently removed two of my large cottonwood trees. I asked them to leave the larger branches and stumps for me. So I now have what appears to be several chords' worth of firewood. They cut most of the limbs and trunks in about 2-3 foot lenghts. I have a small, new (uninstalled) woodstove with a 14" door. So I need to chop these things up to about 1 foot lengths. Most of the wood are limbs, roughly 6" in diameter. Those are the reason I picked a smaller saw. There are some trunk peices in the 2.5' diameter range. But I figure that I'll deal with those later, after I've practiced on the small limbs.

I am contemplating getting a 16" Oregon blade and chain and installing that right-off, even before trying the standard 18" set that comes on the CS-400. Would you recommend doing that? I've heard that it might give me more control and power to use the shorter blade. Is this correct?

Sorry for asking such a noob question and sorry for such a long post. I hate being a noob...

 

[Log Splitter]

Welcome to AS, Red Label. You've found the right place to learn about saws.

I've not run the Echo 400, but since it's a 40 cc saw I'd keep the bar length down to 16 inches max if it were me. 18 inches is a lot for a 50 cc saw, IMO.

Take your time bucking up those cottonwoods, and give them plenty of time to season before you try to burn them in your new stove.

Watch your bar tip, understand how kickback happens, and stay safe!

 

[Red_Label]

Thanks Log_Splitter!

The wood stove is still sitting in my garage, and it's doubtfull that I'll be getting it installed in the house before next fall at the earliest. So I thought I'd just cut all this wood up and put it under a tarp behind the house to cure for the next 8 months or so. The wife and I still haven't agreed on where the stove is going in the house, so that could be a long-running battle anyways... LOL.


ETA: And my plan is to just work on the smaller limbs for starters and leave the blade tip guard on. I've read enough already about kick-back to have a healthy respect for saws. Will be taking it easy while I learn.

 

[czar800]

Welcome to AS, Be carefully around hear right now you only have one saw and its not in hand, you hang around hear long you will have to become a member of the 4 or was it 6 Wait its was 10, No it was 20 saw plain. Remember you can never have just one chainsaw.

 

[computeruser]

Welcome to the site and to the club!

You will be happiest with a shorter bar on that saw. 3:1 is a good cc:bar length ratio, so a 14-16" setup is probably optimal. Since most (uninformed) consumers shop by bar length, most US saws are over-spec'd on bar length when sold as powerhead+bar. Consumers assume, rightly, that a longer bar matches with a more powerful engine. They just don't get that the engine needs to be MUCH more powerful to manage the bars that many saws are offered with. Sears/Craftsman is notorious for this - a choked-down, low-quality 46cc saw with a 20" bar?!

If you elect to change bar length, take the time to also make a judicious choice in terms of chain type. I'm not sure if they are running 3/8"low profile or .325" chain on that saw, but you will want to be particularly careful with the 3/8"LP stuff - there is slow stuff and faster stuff out there, and the slow stuff is SLOW! But first do some cutting with the chain you've got already; you'll have plenty of time to read up on that and become acquainted with the ins and outs of chain selection!!

Learn to sharpen your chains well and you'll be a happier camper, no doubt. Start with good files, and keep a new, unmolested chain around to compare your self-sharpened one to (angles, depth of file on the tooth, etc.).

Also make sure to wear your protective gear, particularly chaps. Accidents happen and fatigue happens.

And most importantly, take lots of pictures of the saw in use and post 'em up on the site!!

EDIT: Do not underestimate what these smaller saws can do. This was the handiwork of a 38cc Husqvarna 238se, equipped with a 13" Oregon MicroLitePro bar and 95vp (.325" pitch, narrow kerf) chain. It was a surprisingly quick process!

 

[Red_Label]

Welcome to AS, Be carefully around hear right now you only have one saw and its not in hand, you hang around hear long you will have to become a member of the 4 or was it 6 Wait its was 10, No it was 20 saw plain. Remember you can never have just one chainsaw.

My wife rolls her eyes at guys and their collections (I've got guns, guitars, knives, etc). So when I told her there were guys on this site who had like 20 saws she gave me a "what in the world for" look. I LOL'd...

 

[Red_Label]

Welcome to the site and to the club!

Thanks for the info and pic computeruser. What kind of wood is that? That's the kind of wood that I have. I've stated that it's cottonwood, but there is no cotton that comes from it. But it didn't look like elm to me either.

BTW... The CS-400 has the 3/8" setup on it stock. It looks like when I do go with a 16" bar and chain, I'll be looking at a 57 segment Oregon chain. And 6 teeth on the sprocket. I need to learn more about that stuff before I buy though. As I am seeing 56 segment chains out there that say they fit this saw as well. I've got a lot to learn for sure...

 

[Red_Label]

I don't know the Ehco saw but if was me I'd run the 18 inch bar and chain that comes with the saw for a while before getting a 16 inch bar and chain. When you need a new chain or bar is a good time to think about changing sizes.(it's about the money)

Have you been reading up on chainsaw use and safety?


Chain sharpening is something you are going to develop a quick interest in! We've got loads of info you can find using our 'search' function.

Welcome to ArboristSite!

Good advice and makes sense. I'm sure I'll want to try the 16" Oregon setup down the road, but yeah... might as well try it with what I've got and get to know it that way and then have something to compare it to. I do plan to get good at sharpening. I take great pride in sharpening my knives, so no doubt I'll do the same with the saw. Also need to get me a good axe and work with that. I used to do a lot of axe-work in my teenage years so that should come back. And yeah... I have five kids and a wife that I love very much, so safety will be a major factor for me.

 

[computeruser]

I don't know the Ehco saw but if was me I'd run the 18 inch bar and chain that comes with the saw for a while before getting a 16 inch bar and chain. When you need a new chain or bar is a good time to think about changing sizes.(it's about the money)

Definitely a good point, but here's the other side - if you pull the bar/chain in its brand-new, virginal condition, you can get $25-30 for it + shipping on eBay, and immediately roll that back into the bar/chain setup you want. I've done this with the couple Echos that I've purchased, since I wanted a shorter/different bar (Pro91, WP or Stihl chain) and it made no sense to buy a couple extra loops for a bar that was longer than desired. Food for thought, anyway...

 

[deerlakejens]

Sounds like a good plan for the cottonwood but you may want to rethink the tarp idea, unless you keep it only on the top. Go to the "Heating With Wood" link on this site for some great info on seasoning your firewood. If you are really going to use the stove for a primary heat source, a few thinks to keep in mind when siting it are easy access with your fuel and the lower in your house, the better. My stove is on the lowest level of the house which has a walk-out door, so I don't make much of a mess carrying in the wood and the heat rises to all levels of the house. I love it!

 

[Red_Label]

BTW... the wife laughs at my eagerness and excitement about this new chainsaw passion. She says I sound like Toolman Tim Taylor ("ho ho ho") when I talk about it. Women just don't get men and their tool-love I guess... :greenchainsaw:

 

[computeruser]

BTW... the wife laughs at my eagerness and excitement about this new chainsaw passion. She says I sound like Toolman Tim Taylor ("ho ho ho") when I talk about it. Women just don't get men and their tool-love I guess... :greenchainsaw:

Some do, but those ones usually scare me.

 

[Red_Label]

Sounds like a good plan for the cottonwood but you may want to rethink the tarp idea, unless you keep it only on the top. Go to the "Heating With Wood" link on this site for some great info on seasoning your firewood. If you are really going to use the stove for a primary heat source, a few thinks to keep in mind when siting it are easy access with your fuel and the lower in your house, the better. My stove is on the lowest level of the house which has a walk-out door, so I don't make much of a mess carrying in the wood and the heat rises to all levels of the house. I love it!

Hmmm... food for thought. The main reason I wanted a tarp on there is that the wood pile will be close to the alley and I kind of wanted to make it harder for people to steal wood. It'd be real easy for them to grab a bunch as it is. But I have been wanting to put-up a fence back there and this may be the reason to make that happen. Also wanted to keep the wood from getting water-logged with snow sitting on it. I definitely need to educate myself on wood storage and heating. I have too many hobbies and interests as it is... I can see that I'm going to be a busy beaver with this!

Also, our home is a duplex that we've joined. I cut-out an archway between them and put in a french door. So it's one level. I'm only counting-on the stove to be able to heat half the house at the most. I'm more interested in wood stove heating for emergency (crap-hits-the-fan) use than anything else. But plan to use it a little in the winter for fun and fuel bill relief.

 

[Red_Label]

Some do, but those ones usually scare me.

Me too! I like my wife being soft and womanly. She supports and respects me for being a man. But she's happy to let ME be the man. Which is a good thing cause I'd make an UGLY woman!

 

[superfire]

Velcome

well youv just entered the chainsaw twilight zone get ready for some kind of a wild ride as fer the saw question go here for more infohttp://www.oregonchain.com/index.htm . also get the ppe and get a chainsaw maintenc kit put together. yo may want too buy a 14" bar and chain and keep the 18" for when the occasional need arives. you need too go slow for the first couple of uses too let the saws get broken right. a new saw needs time too seat the rings and get everything in the proper alingment in the engine. always use the best quality fuel mix and good bar oil and she will last damned near forever:greenchainsaw: enjoy and take the time too read all you can from the AS crew we are well informed and addicted too chainsaws :jawdrop:

 

[aandabooks]

Since I don't think anyone has told you about cottonwood yet, I guess I will. It is probably the lowest quality of the hardwoods. If the tree was live when cut, expect the dried pieces to be about 1/2 of the weight that they are live. The bark will come off in sheets when seasoned and it burns like paper. Very low BTU value.

Now with all that said, congratulations on the first saw. The saw is probably running low pro chain and if so I would recommend a couple of loops of 91VX. The cottonwood will be very forgiving to start learning to cut in. Keep your eyes open for some good oak, hickory, elm etc. Then you'll be able to get better heat out of your stove.

Matt

 

[SawTroll]

....

I am contemplating getting a 16" Oregon blade and chain and installing that right-off, even before trying the standard 18" set that comes on the CS-400. Would you recommend doing that? I've heard that it might give me more control and power to use the shorter blade. Is this correct?

Sorry for asking such a noob question and sorry for such a long post. I hate being a noob...

I wouldn't want a bar longer than 13-14" on that saw........

....
EDIT: Do not underestimate what these smaller saws can do. This was the handiwork of a 38cc Husqvarna 238se, equipped with a 13" Oregon MicroLitePro bar and 95vp (.325" pitch, narrow kerf) chain. It was a surprisingly quick process! ....

Exactly what I would want on that saw.....

 

[wdchuck]

Welcome to AS.

There is a chainsaw filing section in the list of forums on the AS homepage, check it out, some have fantastic pictures and will really help shorten the learning curve.

 

[Red_Label]

well youv just entered the chainsaw twilight zone get ready for some kind of a wild ride as fer the saw question go here for more infohttp://www.oregonchain.com/index.htm . also get the ppe and get a chainsaw maintenc kit put together. yo may want too buy a 14" bar and chain and keep the 18" for when the occasional need arives. you need too go slow for the first couple of uses too let the saws get broken right. a new saw needs time too seat the rings and get everything in the proper alingment in the engine. always use the best quality fuel mix and good bar oil and she will last damned near forever:greenchainsaw: enjoy and take the time too read all you can from the AS crew we are well informed and addicted too chainsaws :jawdrop:

Thanks... will do! I will have to go with just a 16" setup as it looks like the CS-400 is only a 16 and 18" saw (from the specs on their site anyways).

I read somewhere (here on this site maybe) than I should mix this saw at 1/32 instead of the recommended 1/50. I would like it to last a long time without having to rebuild, so I may go that route. Good to know about taking it easy while the saw breaks-in. I take very good care of my stuff... I'll definitely do that.

 

[Red_Label]

Since I don't think anyone has told you about cottonwood yet, I guess I will. It is probably the lowest quality of the hardwoods. If the tree was live when cut, expect the dried pieces to be about 1/2 of the weight that they are live. The bark will come off in sheets when seasoned and it burns like paper. Very low BTU value.

Now with all that said, congratulations on the first saw. The saw is probably running low pro chain and if so I would recommend a couple of loops of 91VX. The cottonwood will be very forgiving to start learning to cut in. Keep your eyes open for some good oak, hickory, elm etc. Then you'll be able to get better heat out of your stove.

Matt

Good to know... thanks! I suppose that the bark is basically worthless for burning then?

I have looked at the Oregon 91V chain and will definitelty try to go that route and a 16" Oregon bar as well. Would you recommend a solid bar or one with a sprocket? I still don't know the differences yet (strengths, weaknesses, etc). I won't do anything until I know more what I am doing, but I'm always thinking ahead to what I need to buy next. I wish I had oak, hickory, etc. But I live up here in MT and I'm not sure we have a lot of that stuff. Most of what gets cut and burned up here is crappy lightweight stuff like pine, spruce, fir, etc.