Not sure exactly where to post this but....

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Is it my imagination (my wife says even at my advanced age I have a vivid imagination) or is this a fact......

I'm having a hard (as in no go) time putting my foot (which isn't that large in the first place) through the handle stirrup on my Echo CS 590 Timber Bear. The only way I could possibly get my right foot in the stirrup is bare footed and that ain't gonna work. I have no issue with any of my Stihl saws, big issue with the CS590.

Maybe the Japanese designers, designed it for small feet or something, but with me and a boot on, it's a no go. At my age, starting any saw with a comp release requires me using the stirrup and I'm not big into 'drop starting' them anyway.

What a royal PITA.

Comments please?
 
I always drop start. Not as much starting while in the tree these days.....but there is no such thing as 'boot in the handle' while airborne. I find the ergonomics superior.

Often without the chain brake on.

I don't see where you have any other choice if your foot doesn't fit.

I've tried the 'handle between the legs' technique. I don't like it at all.
 
I'd never use a Timber Bear in a tree but then I don't climb trees anymore, anyway. Was just making an observation about the tiny space in the stirrup. My Stihl's are adequate. The 590 is not. The other thing I don't much like is the kill switch. It's really archaic for a modern saw unlike my Stihl's where the kill switch is integrated into the single lever but I guess for the price point I can live with it. I've replaced more than one (switch) at the dealership where I work part time. Seems as though owners don't much like it like me. Just got a 590 in that was straight gassed the other day as well and Echo immediately denied any warranty on it. It was in bad shape, you could easily see the metal transfer in the exhaust port with the muffler removed and very little compression as well. Guess it's new cylinder and piston/ring time on the owner's dime. Have to tear it apart and see what other damage there is. I find it somewhat amazing how stupid owners can be. Shop rate on non warranty repairs is $110 bucks an hour plus parts and that includes tractors and lawn mowers. Just got in a a Cub Cadet that the owner set on fire. Never cleaned the dried grass from around the engine and it caught on fire and melted the cooling shroud as well as all the wiring on the Kohler commercial grade engine.

You would be amazed at how many Kubota tractor owners never clean the OEM installed radiator screens as well and then they complain the units are overheating and when they wind up in the shop for a non existent repair and you lift the hood and see the clogged up radiator screens, you know exactly what the issue is. Some 'stupid' owners run them until the engines overheat and ruin them and then are faced with a rebuild and Kubota like Echo, will not warrant any engine damage caused by an owner neglecting maintenance items and a clogged radiator from grass or whatever falls under that.

Owner seem to never read the supplied with manuals or bother to at least do routine maintenance, they just run them until they puke and then they come in and we charge them accordingly.

One thing that owners of new mowers seem to not understand is, all the air cooled mower engines, commercial grade or not, require timely valve clearance adjustment. Kohler, Kawasaki and Briggs commercial V twins all have solid valve lifters and all require timely valve adjustments as well as timely oil and filter changes. Out of adjustment valves result in hard starting as the compression releases on them are actuated by the an assembly that acts on the intake lobe of the camshaft. Over spec valve slop always impacts starting any of the engines and setting the valve clearance is pretty easy to do (or expensive to do when we have to do it) and usually there is related damage as well. Glad I only fiddle with chain saws. Mowers are a PITA to deal with IMO.
 
Put a piece of 1x4 (or whatever fits) where you would place your foot, then step on the 1x4.
I'll try that. Good idea. My feet aren't all that large to begin with but I always wear steel toe boots as a habit when around saws. They just don't fit in that somewhat confined space. It's a pisser and always has been for me at least.
 
The way my back is most of the time these days, putting a boot in the rear handle to start ain't happening anyway, at least not with my foot still inside the boot. I drop start, or sometimes set the saw on a stump and hold the top handle down with my left hand, and pull with my right.
 
You are trying to start the saw the correct way. On the ground and between the legs (bar forward) are the preferred method.
Any pro is going to tell you drop start. If you can do it without getting hurt, OK. But many have gotten hurt doing it.
I like the 1x4 suggestion. Good thinking.
Let the tomatoes fly.
 
Out in the bush where the trees are, it's very hard to find a clear spot on the ground to start it with a foot in the handle, especially interesting with an old saw without a chain brake. Anyway not an option for me, size 13 boots don't fit most handles. Crotch starting works well as long as the saw pulls over fairly easy but if it hangs up when it hits compression, I get bruises where I don't want them.
Drop starting a light saw with high compression can be a problem, especially on first start of the day. The cord hangs up when it hits compression and jerks the saw around, so I add some more mass to the saw by adding a 10lb weight to it. A 1gal container of any liquid weighs about 10lbs, a short loop of rope through the container handle and draped over the front handle of the saw works for me.
Wish I had a left arm like Buckin Billy Ray, also a few of his saws.
 
I'll try that. Good idea. My feet aren't all that large to begin with but I always wear steel toe boots as a habit when around saws. They just don't fit in that somewhat confined space. It's a pisser and always has been for me at least.
You can place the bar and chain of the saw on a large log, similar to a drop start but safer, and try it this way. And yeah it's prob because they have small feet.
 
I haven't tried putting a foot in my 590 but then again I never understood the appeal of starting a saw that way anyway..
The other thing I don't much like is the kill switch. It's really archaic for a modern saw unlike my Stihl's where the kill switch is integrated into the single lever but I guess for the price point I can live with it.
I have several Echos with that style kill switch and the 590 is the only one where I sometimes hit the switch on accident right after starting. I was spoiled on the Stihl system for a long time as well. It looks like Echo is ditching that little toggle for a paddle shaped momentary switch from here forward which I don't like as much. On the plus side it should eliminate accidental kills and flooding a saw by forgetting to reset the switch.
 
Isn't the idea of the flat area next to the handle so you can step over the saw & plant your heel on it rather than trying to get the toe of your boot through the handle?View attachment 1139800
It's meant to be a safety feature. Supposed to protect your hand if the chain should happen to break.
 

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