Oak Wilt and tree trimming

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Guy across the street just had about ten smallish 12" dbh oaks pruned. They're nice looking, and I hope they're not harmed. Tree age is an interesting subject. I cut down a just beetle killed pine, which the arborist had said was one of the biggest he'd seen in this area, about 44" dbh, counted 100 rings. I woulda guessed more, this was a big assed tree. People are also kinda touchy about their tree's age, and I think some arborists tell folks what they think will make 'me happy. I've had two guys out who told me my big live oak was 500 years old, I figured that was BS, but if I knew it was really 140 it wouldn't be worse looking or provide less shade. Crap, I just made another pointless post
 
While I was "typing" that post, my phone offered to change "tree's age" to "tree'tard"! I think that Siri chick is getting too far into my head:msp_confused:
 
I think that Tree Trimming of large oak trees will not make them wilt regardless of the time of year. I have done major trimming during all times of the year. A healthy tree appreciates the trimming. Especially when you thin out the crown of all dead wood and sucker limbs. You may want to seal the large branches that are trimmed to keep bugs and fungus out. You can spend extra money on tree sealer or you can just grab a paint of leftover paint from the garage and paint the cuts. Some of the more important things to me is to make clean cuts without tares. I like to use black paint wen requested to seal the tree. I think it looks the nicest. Look around to all the neighbors, do they have trees being affected by fungus or bugs? it doesn't mean that if you don't see it happening to other trees it won't happen to yours. Also, most electric company contracted tree trimming companies dont care about doing whats best for the tree. You are not the customer they are trying to keep happy. All trees have something very important to keep close attention to when trimming off limbs. Where the limb is attached to the tree there is tissue that does not need to be harmed. Cutting through the tissue is the best and easiest way to hurt a tree. Look at the limb where it connects to the tree. You will notice a roundish area right where it connects. That is the tissue. It is best to cut the limb after the tissue and allow the tissue to stay connected to the tree. This is the best way to trim without hurting the tree. Regardless of the time of year. Also I like to water a tree really good after I trim. We are mainly performing so the only experience I have is down in the hot south. All trees need water. Especially in the summer. There are numerous ways to water trees but the most important way not to water is putting the water directly close to the trunk. The best in my opinion is to drive a metal pipe deep in the ground about half way between the trunk and the edge of the crown, and then shove a water hose in the hole and put the water on super trickle. drip, drip, drip. Also tree fertilizer spread on the ground and watered in is also very good after a major trimming. I like to feed my trees. Food and water, it helps fight off all kinds of threats.

Hope my two cents helps. I'm new to this site but I have a lot of knowledge I want to share and I hope I can learn a thing or two here also. Good luck with those tree scalpers. They can be ruthless at times. Your smart be standing you ground and telling them they aren't trimming them.
Here is some of there finer work. This tree show's how the don't give a darn. They cut all of it down but the limb going to the left over the street and the leaf you see to the right of the line is the rest of the tree. Now it's just a matter of time til it falls in the road or on to the house. I know they are just clearing the line but that is just plane stupid another half hour work and everybody would be safe. There is one down the road I think is even worse. When you talk of crown I do not know what it mean's can you post a pic or explain it better I know drip line and I understand how you do not cut to tight to the main lead so you don't hurt the tree. What is a good tree fertilizer for the big oak in the pic's. Another guy said I should aerate and mulch feed can you help me on this. I know you drill hole's and fill with mulch. But am not sure if a certain mulch is better than another also what size hole and how far do you grid the hole's apart, how deep to drill then. Last time they cut they killed an Oak across the street it did not take long at all. I get these fungus like growth's around the base of the big oak kind of an orange and whitish color. First pic is across the road from me. The second is the one with just two limbs or so left .
 
Guy across the street just had about ten smallish 12" dbh oaks pruned. They're nice looking, and I hope they're not harmed. Tree age is an interesting subject. I cut down a just beetle killed pine, which the arborist had said was one of the biggest he'd seen in this area, about 44" dbh, counted 100 rings. I woulda guessed more, this was a big assed tree. People are also kinda touchy about their tree's age, and I think some arborists tell folks what they think will make 'me happy. I've had two guys out who told me my big live oak was 500 years old, I figured that was BS, but if I knew it was really 140 it wouldn't be worse looking or provide less shade. Crap, I just made another pointless post

I was trying to find the article of the subdivision where they come through and cut a ton of oak's and everyone died, it was in the spinal column but I had no luck. I was shocked when I measured the tree and it was 11ft 6in dia. :smile2: Well tomorrow Im waging a war on this mole who destroyed my whole front yard. It had not been around since I trapped them last year, but we had a hard rain and in one day he made trails all over:dizzy:
 
I think that Tree Trimming of large oak trees will not make them wilt regardless of the time of year. I have done major trimming during all times of the year. A healthy tree appreciates the trimming.

Uhhhhh, not what he is talking about. Look up oak wilt.... quit giving advice on stuff you don't understand.
 
Im wondering about the oaks across the street. Before the cut them there was no brown leave's on them. Now today I looked across the street and quite a few clusters of leaves are dead and brown might be stress from the cutting, but it is the same house that had one die in a matter of weeks a few years back. Will get some pic's of it tomorrow and will be keeping an eye on them.
 
What is a good tree fertilizer for the big oak in the pic's.

Another guy said I should aerate and mulch feed can you help me on this. I know you drill hole's and fill with mulch. But am not sure if a certain mulch is better than another also what size hole and how far do you grid the hole's apart, how deep to drill then.

I get these fungus like growth's around the base of the big oak kind of an orange and whitish color.

..................No ferts.......unless a soil test says your soil is deficient in something.

Aerate and fill with COMPOST. Every few feet (2-4) in a grid pattern, a couple inches diameter. Mulch at the surface, around the trunk (without placing mulch against the trunk) for as much area as your willing 2 to 4 inches deep.

First mention of possible root rot fungi......another indication of possible major problems.

Honestly, you need someone on site. If you're not willing to do enough searching/learning to determine a grid spacing for aeration and a source for good compost with which to ammend, then I'm doubtful that the outcome will be positive for you.

Your oak has multiple symptoms of major distress. Words on a message board with no action will resolve nothing.

Good luck.
 

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