Oiling a 20" bar on a MS 261C-M

[realzed]

My new and yet to be used 261 is fitted with a 20" Rollomatic E bar and I'm wondering if I should crack the oil adjuster up a lot closer to 'Full' ON to compensate for the length over the usual 16" - 18" versions which I'm guessing the middle of the range markings on the oiler adjustment screw are mostly intended for..
I previously had a 290 which seemed to oil a 20" bar perfectly well without adjusting it past half way - but I'm not sure if the oil pump on a 261 version pumps out the same or lower amount since I read in a few sites where people have warned about poor oiling with the longer bars on similar models.
Any experiences or information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks - Randy

 

[Knobby57]

20” on a 261 is about as far as you want to go .. I run all my oilers at max always

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Yep, max out that oiler for sure. Stihls are known to be a little stingy anyways, so mine are always wide open.

 

[Iceboy]

Always run your oilers on max. That's what I do and never had a problem


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[Wow]

20” on a 261 is about as far as you want to go .. I run all my oilers at max always

Me too, oil, and more oil makes me happy and don't forget to grease the tip of the bar. I bought a used 029 and the bar had NO tip hole for grease. Using a proper sized drill I was able to drill the grease hole in the right place and grease that tip every fill up.

 

[CR888]

Me to, and more oil makes me happy and don't forget to grease the tip of the bar. I bought a used 029 and the bar had NO tip hole for grease. Using a proper sized drill I was able to drill the grease hole in the right place and grease that tip every fill up.

Got to be careful doing that to a sealed bearing stihl laminate bar. I've done it & under the steel plate their is another thin round seal to get through. Its a tricky one...now I just leave them or buy greasable RSN bars.

 

[Wow]

I dislike them but since it was on the saw and needed grease I fixed it like that. It's tricky and if I had failed I'd have not worried because I would have put a better bar back on. Location for the hole is tricky. Then drilling is tricky. Lastly a fine pointed grindstone on my dremel finished it. All in all took maybe 30 minutes. It's a last ditch method. For me I've extended the usefulness of the bar. Failure was already imminent. The bearings were good but felt dry. Good day

 

[brock1994]

I bought my 261 with the 20" b/c combo and replaced it with 3/8. Also maxed out the oiler which was only like a 1/4 turn more and I didn't even notice a difference until I sunk fully into wood. Would crank it up just to be safe. Oil is much cheaper than a new bar. It's had about 10 tanks and it's opened up a lot since I first bought it. MM is on the to-do list.

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[Wow]

I bought my 261 with the 20" b/c combo and replaced it with 3/8. Also maxed out the oiler which was only like a 1/4 turn more and I didn't even notice a difference until I sunk fully into wood. Would crank it up just to be safe. Oil is much cheaper than a new bar. It's had about 10 tanks and it's opened up a lot since I first bought it. MM is on the to-do list.

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Cool. oil viscosity effects flow. I built a viscosity checker and at times check my bar oil. If it's flowing to fast STP will slow the flow. Not enough oil, a little transmission fluid picks up the flow. Also, if oil is to thin it slings off the bar starving the chain. At times I've added oil conditioner to my oil. I'm very picky about my saws. Sometimes on some saws I have marked containers of oil mixed just for that saw. Often before starting the engine (switch in OFF position) I'll pour some oil on the bar and pull the chain through while angling the bar 45 degrees so oil flows to the chain. Good day.

 

[CR888]

Does the oil pump piston move more oil when is a thinner viscosity?? Is that how it works?

 

[Wow]

Does the oil pump piston move more oil when is a thinner viscosity?? Is that how it works?

Up to a point. You can thin it to much. During cold weather a lot of guys add something to thin oil. If it's hot weather most oil flows easier. Thick oil is more resistive so thinning helps move it faster, easier, etc. A coat hanger wire long enough to dip in oil with 2 inches bent back leaving about 1/8th gap makes a good viscosity checker. At the top make a loop for a handle. Dip, pull up hold horizontally and watch how the oil holds in the void. Slightly angle and see how the oil flows. There should be some oil remaining as a big droplet. As long as the crack between the wires isn't to wide. What you are simulating is a space between to parallel metal surfaces with oil. Keep the bent wires as parallel as possible. The gap 1/8 or a little less. Good day

 

[thetoolnut]

20" .325 is really maxing out a stock 261 imo. Better to swap/sell that 20" and get a 16"/18" .325 for it.

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