on a 3 cube saw: .325 or .375 chain?
- Thread starter tonka
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skwerl
Will Climb for food
With a 16, run whichever you prefer. For an 18 or 20, I prefer .325. But with a 16 you wouldn't notice any difference I don't think.
I use .325 on my regular 346-15 " ,on my EHP i run 3/8.
Stumper
One Man Band
tonka said:
Yes!
(I choose to run 3/8ths so that I don't have to stock more chain and bar sizes..but the .325 is just right for that size powerhead. Either one will work fine.)
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
My stock 026 never like 3/8" chain. I have demo'd my 5100 to a few folks with 3/8" on it and 2 guys didn't like it, I switched it to .325 and the 2 testers liked it better. I would like to time it on 14" wood to know for sure which is faster.
Another thing I should have added was: in hard wood. Oak, Cherry. Sedanman, that would be interesting to see a back to back timed comparisons of the two chains on the same saw. The 5100 with the 3/8 on it, what didn't they like about it? Slow? Which one do you think is faster?
Butch(OH)
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hate to sound like an often played recording but id say it depends on what you use it for and what kind of wood. My Dolmar 112 is presently pulling 95VP .325 narrow kerf chain on a light weight 16" bar with a 9 tooth rim. Its extremely fast on trim work less than 10 inches in any wood or in softer wood up to a full bar. For the big and hard stuff we have bigger "irons". As issued the 112 used 3/8 and a 7 tooth rim, probably a better set up for the guy who goes to the woods with one saw. An 8 tooth rim would help some too but cant try one on the 112 clutch size.
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
tonka, I think it is easier to bog the 5100 with 3/8 chain, this has a lot to do with the perception of speed. If you put 1/4" on a 5100 you could stand on the powerhead and not bog the saw, so it HAS to be faster..............perception does not always equal reality. With timed cuts we may see the 5100 is faster with 3/8 but requires a finer touch. .325 may let the operator push harder on the saw, time will tell.
buck futter
ArboristSite Guru
Chris,
I am anxious to see your results, but so much comes into play like raker height or chain speed have you experimented with this much? If so what have you found and on what saws?
Thanks
Buck
I am anxious to see your results, but so much comes into play like raker height or chain speed have you experimented with this much? If so what have you found and on what saws?
Thanks
Buck
1/4"sedanman said:
With shorter pitch rim is smaller and torque larger, but the amount of tooths per cutting length is larger too. As the chain speed is lower with smaller rim, the total power demand is a litlebit smaller
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Most of what's on 026's out here is 3/8. Full skip works great with the 20 inch bars, full comp with the 16 inch. RS or RSC type chisel chain. All in pacific NW softwoods
SawTroll
Information Collector
The gearing will be different with 3/8"x7 vs. .325x7. The 3/8" sprocket will be larger, and give you more chain speed and less torque.
The .325x8 will give about the same gearing and chain speed as the 3/8x7, but more cutters in the wood.
I suspect that most unmodified 3 cube saws will perform best with the .325x7 in anything but very small wood.
The .325x8 will give about the same gearing and chain speed as the 3/8x7, but more cutters in the wood.
I suspect that most unmodified 3 cube saws will perform best with the .325x7 in anything but very small wood.
Sounds like .325 would probably be the way to go in hard wood. Also might decide to run an 18" bar and 3/8 sounds like it might bog the saw down. .325x8 might be a good setup with the 16" bar. Thanks for your help.
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