Orange 011av

[Big feller]

I finally got around to having another go at my old 011 after reading the hints about reed valves yesterday.

It looks as though a small amount of filing has been done to the bottom of the reed block, but all signs are that it has sealed OK and the reed seems to be fine.

I am still having trouble starting it. Having got it warm the other day I decided to go back to initial settings, and it wouldn't restart. I wound the L screw out about another half turn and it started and ran fine. It cuts well and didn't bog with about 10" of blade buried in hornbeam. It also picks up well from idle.

The only way I seem to be able to start it reliably is to remove the air filter, place a finger over the top of the carb, and give 3 or 4 pulls to haul in some gas.

The choke flap seems to work OK, so I don't think there's a problem there.

Any offers, saw doctors, before I run vacuum and pressure checks on the crank case?

Thanks.

 

[Lakeside53]

If it starts with your finger, but not the choke... sounds like the choke flap isn't sealing real well..

In my experience, apart from the the reed block, these saws rarely suffer seal or case leaks. Maybe a quick check of the cylinder screws is in order though.

Go though the carb, and be sure to check/replace your fuel filter.

I assume your tank vent is working?

 

[Big feller]

I reckon the choke is sealing OK, but the flap has a small hole in it to allow enough air for it to run for a bit. I think that sealing the carb with a finger just makes enough difference to pull the fuel through.

When I got the saw it started OK, but wouldn't run too well. It turned out that a previous owner had replaced the tank vent foam filter with a screw. Over time the pipe had closed up on it and made a fairly good seal. I guess the owner had realised it was running lean and wound the H screw out a couple of turns to compensate. Needless to say it didn't do much. He got himself a later model 011 and gave the old one to me. I found the vent problem pretty quickly and replaced all parts as original. I also put in a new carb kit, but since the saw runs well both WOT and idle, I guess I got that right.

Once I've got it running it's a great little saw. It would just be nice to start it in a more dignified manner!

I wondered if it was significant that I had to wind the L screw out half a turn more than the original setting to make it run OK?

 

[PES+]

Are you sure you have the needle height set correctly?

Another thing to check is just as Lakeside described....sometimes with age the reed petal will distort and not allow enough seal for the saw to start when hot.

IF the needle lever height is correct, you can remove the reed block and flip the reed just as Lakeside described. Make sure you loctite the screws holding the reed in place so they do not get eaten.

 

[stihltech]

choke

In my experience, the first design choke sucked. I own one.
There are at least 2 designs for the choke on these saws. The cover and filter off a white case saw works much better.

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes.... I'm with Stihltech.. It slides the "other way". One is up/down, the other left/right. I can never remember which is which unless I see them though!

 

[Big feller]

Good advice. Thanks, guys.

The choke on my orange saw slides fore - aft. I will keep an eye out for one from a white saw that goes sideways.