Oregon 512 grinder vibrating

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Plasmech

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
1,164
Reaction score
82
Location
Aston, PA (19014)
Oregon 511a grinder vibrating

My Oregon 511a grinder, relatively new, has started vibrating enough that the chain wants to ride up out of the groove before I can get the head down and the clamp pressure up.

So the obvious thing is that the wheel is out of balance...or something in the motor itself is out of balance. It does it with all three of my wheels. There's also something that sounds plastic in there making quite a buzz. Anybody have any experience with this?
 
Last edited:
512?

Heard of 510 and 511. Does this have the hydraulic clamp?

If it vibrates that much with each wheel, and it's fairly new, contact Oregon or the place you bought it from. Definitely not going to get a good edge with that kind of vibration.

Could be defective motor, bent shaft, etc. Might also be a knock-off labeled 'Oregon'.

Philbert
 
512?

Heard of 510 and 511. Does this have the hydraulic clamp?

If it vibrates that much with each wheel, and it's fairly new, contact Oregon or the place you bought it from. Definitely not going to get a good edge with that kind of vibration.

Could be defective motor, bent shaft, etc. Might also be a knock-off labeled 'Oregon'.

Philbert

Opps, it's actually a 511a.
 
Not meaning to insult you, but are you certain you're putting the wheels on right?

Also, check the diameter of the wheels at different places to make sure they're true. I've got made in China wheels that were more accurate in thickness than the Oregon product costing three times as much. It wouldn't surprise me to see a wheel that wasn't true as well. But 3 of them? Maybe not.

If it wasn't doing this right out of the box, I'd say something got loose. Check all fasterners in that case.
 
Not meaning to insult you, but are you certain you're putting the wheels on right?

Also, check the diameter of the wheels at different places to make sure they're true. I've got made in China wheels that were more accurate in thickness than the Oregon product costing three times as much. It wouldn't surprise me to see a wheel that wasn't true as well. But 3 of them? Maybe not.

If it wasn't doing this right out of the box, I'd say something got loose. Check all fasteners in that case.

:agree2:do you have a chip out of the wheeltom trees
 
Just curious - did you buy it new or used?

Are you using the correct flange to hold the wheel on?

Could the grinder have been dropped (you mention a plastic buzz - could be a bent motor shaft)?

I assumed it is the hydraulic model because you mentioned clamp pressure.

Philbert
 
20a6x4i.jpg
tom trees
 
OK here's what I discovered.

First I took the two stickers off the wheel. Still vibrated. Took the wheel completely off and ran just the motor. No vibration whatsoever. Wheel back on. While the chain was dancing all around, I effectively greatly increased the mass of the base of the unit by using a speed sling and my foot. This dampened 90% of it out. Also discovered that the ONLY vibration NOISE is coming from the chain and the little lateral limiting flip bracket.

Ran the wheel very slowly by hand near the bed of the machine. Determined that the wheel is out of round. Did my best to true it up with the brick. Vibration is a little better now but not where I want it to be. Dang Orogon wheel is out of round....
 
OK here's what I discovered.

First I took the two stickers off the wheel. Still vibrated. Took the wheel completely off and ran just the motor. No vibration whatsoever. Wheel back on. While the chain was dancing all around, I effectively greatly increased the mass of the base of the unit by using a speed sling and my foot. This dampened 90% of it out. Also discovered that the ONLY vibration NOISE is coming from the chain and the little lateral limiting flip bracket.

Ran the wheel very slowly by hand near the bed of the machine. Determined that the wheel is out of round. Did my best to true it up with the brick. Vibration is a little better now but not where I want it to be. Dang Orogon wheel is out of round....

Out of round could also be not centered on the mounting shaft.
 
First I took the two stickers off the wheel. . . Determined that the wheel is out of round.

Don't know if you can still do with with the stickers removed, but if the Oregon wheels are defective, they should replace them.

Also, (gotta say this 'casue you brought it up, even though you probably don't want to hear it) the paper labels on grinding wheels should not be removed. They help pad the flange and reduce the risk of wheel failure.

Sorry about your wheels.

Philbert
 
I returned my Oregon wheels

I bought my Oregon wheels at Northern, where I bought my 511a knockoff grinder. Showed them the measurements, and they offered me two more wheels as replacements. They measured too thick as well, so I just got a refund.

I imagine you could return them to wherever you bought them and do the same.
 
This happens all the time when they make grinding wheels for anything. I've bought 10 different wheels before I got one good one. After that little debacle I decided to try the diamond stone dresser I have for my bench grinder. I rigged up a unit to move it side to side and a stop so the wheel was just touching the dresser. Turned on the grinder and lowered it to the dresser. After the initial cut I slowly moved it side to side and trued the wheel. It's in pieces right now so I can fab a more permanent unit. Once that is done I'll post pics and measurements so you guys rig one up.
 
I just had to return a new grinder wheel today because the arbor hole wasn't in the center. It happens.

I hear you, but it shouldn't happen. If you pay $10 to $20 for a name brand, quality wheel, it should be made within specs, and there should be quality controls to prevent out of spec wheels from leaving the factory.

I can understand it more if it was a 'no-brand' product off of eBay, or something you made in your garage. That's why I keep asking if these could be knock-off or counterfeit wheels, or if Oregon's Q.C. has just gone down the . . .

It's also a safety concern, because poorly made grinding wheels have a history of exploding violently, causing serious injuries, which is why OSHA requires all of that guarding, 'ring testing', etc. So a legit company making these things should have tight Q.C. standards.

Philbert
 
OK here's what I discovered.

First I took the two stickers off the wheel. Still vibrated. Took the wheel completely off and ran just the motor. No vibration whatsoever. Wheel back on. While the chain was dancing all around, I effectively greatly increased the mass of the base of the unit by using a speed sling and my foot. This dampened 90% of it out. Also discovered that the ONLY vibration NOISE is coming from the chain and the little lateral limiting flip bracket.

Ran the wheel very slowly by hand near the bed of the machine. Determined that the wheel is out of round. Did my best to true it up with the brick. Vibration is a little better now but not where I want it to be. Dang Orogon wheel is out of round....

Are you holding the brick freehand, if so hold it against something solid so you olny take the high spot off the wheel. That should work unless the wheel is thicker on one side. This made in china junk isn't very good, just bought a couple new rim sprokets, one was 1/8" out of round, the other not quite as bad causing the chain to get tight and loose when rotated by hand. I trued them up on the lathe rather than going through the hassle of returning them and most likely getting a couple more out of round ones. Steve
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top