Original 346xp conversion to primer bulb, is it worth it?

[RangerJim]

Hi, new to the site here- though I have been reading many posts and just starting to tinker a little bit on chainsaws. I have a 1999 346xp that I recently swapped the 42mm cylinder for the 44mm cylinder and replaced the plastic boot clamp with the metal one. I could not get the chain to stop turn at idle, and after messing with the carb screws, I took it to a shop to have them adjust the idle, or see what I did wrong. They said it passed their tests (compression, pressure, and vacuum) and said it needed a new carb. I thought, well its 20+ years old, so ok I'll take a new carb. Few weeks go by, so I call to check on the saw and the receptionist tells me they are waiting on parts, a screw, hose and bulb. I said, it didn't have a bulb on that saw, she said she said she didn't know anything about it and to call back to talk to another guy who wasn't in. Some more time goes by and she calls me back saying they are now waiting on a lining that won't be in for two months, but again the mechanic isn't there to talk to. At first, I was thinking it may be good to have the upgraded primer and carb, but then I started researching the two 346xp versions (we have one of each at work), and it looks like I'll have to swap out the base under the carb because the original doesn't have openings for the extra hoses, the elbow holding the filters (as well as the filters)is different, I'll need a nipple at the gas tank vent. Not sure if the tanks are different, is that nipple at the vent a gas return? If so, there is no hole on my current tank for gas to flow in. Basically, this looks like its going to cost a bit more than just replacing the original carb. Is it worth doing all that, or should I just find the original carb? Can I use the new carb and just bypass the primer?

Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Woodslasher]

Hi, new to the site here- though I have been reading many posts and just starting to tinker a little bit on chainsaws. I have a 1999 346xp that I recently swapped the 42mm cylinder for the 44mm cylinder and replaced the plastic boot clamp with the metal one. I could not get the chain to stop turn at idle, and after messing with the carb screws, I took it to a shop to have them adjust the idle, or see what I did wrong. They said it passed their tests (compression, pressure, and vacuum) and said it needed a new carb. I thought, well its 20+ years old, so ok I'll take a new carb. Few weeks go by, so I call to check on the saw and the receptionist tells me they are waiting on parts, a screw, hose and bulb. I said, it didn't have a bulb on that saw, she said she said she didn't know anything about it and to call back to talk to another guy who wasn't in. Some more time goes by and she calls me back saying they are now waiting on a lining that won't be in for two months, but again the mechanic isn't there to talk to. At first, I was thinking it may be good to have the upgraded primer and carb, but then I started researching the two 346xp versions (we have one of each at work), and it looks like I'll have to swap out the base under the carb because the original doesn't have openings for the extra hoses, the elbow holding the filters (as well as the filters)is different, I'll need a nipple at the gas tank vent. Not sure if the tanks are different, is that nipple at the vent a gas return? If so, there is no hole on my current tank for gas to flow in. Basically, this looks like its going to cost a bit more than just replacing the original carb. Is it worth doing all that, or should I just find the original carb? Can I use the new carb and just bypass the primer?

Any help, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I'd tell them to stop adding stuff and get you a new carb that is the same as your old one and to not bother with the primer bulb. The other thing is you'll need a new top cover too, I believe. The following link is for a rebuilt carb that should be a direct bolt in replacement for your original one, if you want to do it yourself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/254821706144?hash=item3b548ea9a0:g:zfQAAOSwKDJf7Vhz

 

[Big Block]

As a side note the 357xp air filter is a cheap mod and does offer gains. More filter area.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Sounds like a shop that doesn't know whats going on...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[John Lyngdal]

Have a 346OE without a bulb and a 356NE with a bulb.
It properly tuned, a bulb just isn't needed and usually I forget that it is there to use.

 

[Wood Doctor]

If I had a choice between a saw with a primer bulb and the same one without one, I would buy the the one without it any day. It's just something else to go haywire. One or two more choke pulls when the engine is cold won't kill you.

 

[J D]

Sounds like a shop that doesn't know whats going on...

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

Agreed, I would suspect the carb "needed replacing" because they were incapable of servicing it effectively.
If someone came to me having rebuilt the top end of a saw (& did a decent job) I'd be having the discussion about replacing vs putting a kit in the carb & offer to supply them parts if they wanted to do it themselves(direct replacement parts).
I have an early Husky 350 & a later J-Red 2150 (same saw but 2150 has a bulb) & the husky has always started just as well.
Another option would be to use the newer carb & just plug the return line.
Either way I wouldn't be paying for a bunch of unnecessary parts & labour to "upgrade" it

 

[RangerJim]

I was able to talk to the mechanic and told him I didn't need the primer bulb upgrade and he went ahead and used the new carb and bypassed the primer. Figure I could always add it later if I want. The new carb doesn't have the limiters on the adjustment screws, so that may be an upgrade over the original. If I do add the primer down the road, is there a fuel return hose that goes back to the tank? Would I need to drill a hole through the tank vent filter for the nipple, or just replace the filter with that nipple?

Thanks for all the advise and suggestions.

 

[J D]

Return goes back into the tank through a separate hole (you would probably have to make a new one)
Wouldn't be surprised if you ended up with a Chinese carb... I'd ask to keep the oem one.

 

[Canyon Angler]

If I had a choice between a saw with a primer bulb and the same one without one, I would buy the the one without it any day. It's just something else to go haywire. ...

Same here. The primer bulb on my Dolmar tree saw cracked and leaked and I just ignored it and stopped using it, and ran it that way for a year or three with no problem -- I just used the choke, and that started it up just fine -- before finally taking it in to the local shop for some other reason, and they replaced the primer bulb...then other things started going haywire with that saw...

 

[Wood Doctor]

Same here. The primer bulb on my Dolmar tree saw cracked and leaked and I just ignored it and stopped using it, and ran it that way for a year or three with no problem -- I just used the choke, and that started it up just fine -- before finally taking it in to the local shop for some other reason, and they replaced the primer bulb...then other things started going haywire with that saw...

Last year I fixed seven saws for a friend who had picked them up for practically nothing at estate sales and group sales. He said that not one was a runner. I fixed all those that had good compression and each one had a bad primer bulb. Once replaced, all but one started and ran OK. There were other issues, but that was the main one. He sold them all and made out like a bandit. He gave me a vintage Echo CS-4500 that needed new shock mounts as partial payment for my work. It runs very well today.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Any of my saws that have a primer bulb get started without using them, I do, however use the compression release...