Outdoor Wood Boiler Disaster

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BadgerBob

ArboristSite Lurker
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Location
Wisconsin
(Note: Feel free to copy and circulate this message. You'll see why.)

Last fall I had installed a Royall 6200 outside wood boiler which worked well until recently. It was 10:00 P.M., February 25, 2007, snowing and 30°F when I fired the boiler for the night (the last forecast I heard was for a low of 20°); shortly after, I turned down the thermostat from 71° to 67°and went to bed. My wife and I slept comfy and warm until 1:30 A.M. – that was when the drama began.

The Royall 6200 is a 200,000 Btu closed system with a blower-induced draft controlled by an adjustable aqua-stat. Through the winter I learned to adequately heat my home by setting the aqua-stat at 185° and adjust the manually operated draft damper according to outside temperature, wind direction and speed, type of wood and solar heat gain – all elements that impact heating/draft requirements. Also, to meet standards, the boiler has a 30 psi relief valve manufactured by Conbraco Industries.

The boiler supplies our hot water heating system through 1 ¼” pex tubing (Rehau Insulpex). The tubing is buried for 75’, enters the basement wall and then continues for another 15’ where it makes a transition to 1 ¼” type M copper.

Like I said, it worked all winter: So, what happened? At 1:30 A.M, a deafening explosion actually rocked the house, causing my wife and I to bolt from bed and shout in unison, “What the hell was that?” She thought an airplane hit the house but I, retired but with 33 years of metro firefighting experience, knew what it was by what I heard after the blast – high pressure steam.

Just like back in the day, I immediately dressed, put on boots and began processing a plan of action. Hot steam pushed around the basement door so I reached in with a gloved hand just to turn on the light; then I went outside and opened the cellar door, releasing enough steam so I could enter to shut off the heating system’s power and water supply – I was separated from the rupture by 30’ and a wall. I then scrambled to the boiler and filled the firebox with snow. Okay, with everything under as much control as I could exert and the sound of rushing steam replaced by dribbling water, I reentered the basement to determine what happened.

I discovered a one foot catastrophic rupture of the Insulpex tubing where it entered the basement from the wall. I was amazed, wondering what could have caused the (reported) highest quality pex transfer system to fail so disastrously, but, moreover, I was thankful the blast did not occur while I worked on a project or when I sent one of my grandkids down to fetch canned goods. Since only a few gallons of water stood on the basement floor and steam’s expansion ratio is 1,600 to 1, the system failure could have yielded almost 30,000 cubic feet of scalding steam.

What I’ve learned since the disaster:

Rehau Insulpex: Like all pex, it is rated for a maximum of 80 psi at 200° F. Speaking to a Rehau engineer, he stated – off the record – they test Insulpex for other applications at 240° without failure. So why did it fail?

Was it my entire fault? The boiler obviously became overheated. On the night of my disaster, the weather forecast I heard said the low would be 20° so I set the draft damper at 1/3. But, in fact, the temperature rose to 35°. Had I known that, I would have set it to about 1/6 open.

The relief valve: Conbraco Industries told me their relief valve (10-407) was the safest thing on the boiler and that it absolutely would release at 30 psi. They also stated that the installed valve was not suitable for the application. He told me to read the tag affixed to the valve – I did. “4) DO NOT use this valve on a coal or wood boiler having an uncontrolled Btu heat input.” Since my boiler has a manually operated damper, it is uncontrolled. (A controlled boiler would be one where the aquastat not only stops the draft motor at a set temperature, but would also automatically close the draft opening.)

I kept digging because the Insulpex “should” have withstood up to 240° at 80 psi and the relief valve should have released at 30 psi despite the boiler’s lack of draft control. I found the answer when I discovered a steam temperature/pressure chart. At 30 psi, steam is 274° F. Somewhere below 30 psi – 29 psi @ 270°, for all I know – the superheated water entered the pex within the basement. At that point, free from the pressure of 4’ of compacted cold earth and exposed to room temperature, the pex softened and expanded, ultimately exploding the supply tube. At the moment of rupture, the pressure within the tube became 1 atmosphere, allowing all the water above 212° to directly become steam which caused the violent and instantaneous steam release.

Appraised of the facts as I knew them, I contacted the installer who came to the site within 8 hours – he scratched his head in disbelief. He said he had seen these boilers reach 240° with Insulpex installed with no adverse effect. In fact, I had noticed my boiler reach that temperature several times whereupon I immediately closed the draft and turned up the thermostats to use up the accumulated heat.

I then contacted the Royall manufacturer who nearly immediately told me that over-fired boilers voided the warranty. I told him that the instruction booklet had no directions for setting the aquastat and the draft, that the relief valve was not the proper type, that the boiler should have a temperature/pressure (T&P) relief valve much like a hot water heater, that his boiler should have an automatic draft damper and that pex tubing (something Royall recommends under a different brand) could not withstand the boiler’s potential output. He said he would get back to me.

Recommendations:

Anyone with a Royall boiler, or one with its characteristics, who installed pex supply tubing with its terminus inside the house, should immediately shut it down until a transition to copper is made outside the building. The below-ground pressure and temperature keep the pex intact but catastrophic failure is likely when the tubing is relieved of pressure within a warm basement. If in close proximity, one may expect injury or death from shrapnel, a steam-burned airway and extensive 3rd degree burns.

Additionally, if the boiler (closed system) is not refitted to limit its output to 200° F, one can expect buried pex tubing to fail prematurely.

This recommendation does not apply to open systems and those boilers equipped with a properly rated T&P relief valve and equipped with an automatic damper control.

In Conclusion:

I’ve heard nothing more from the installer and manufacturer. I believe justice indicates they should make things right, so, if they make light of this experience, I’ll be forced to litigate.

http://www.royallfurnace.com/OutdoorPressure.htm
http://www.rstreps.com/pdf/INSULPEX 855[1].806.pdf
http://www.conbraco.com/products/safety/techtemplate_1.asp?pid=10-Series
 
i would modify it and make it an open system. or replace it with one. i've seen malfunctioning inside boilers blow houses apart. i saw a 40 gallon water heater with a stuck t&p go from the basement out through the roof. it ain't worth it, man.
 
Badger Bob what style or brand of line does the manufacturer reccomend to install between the boiler and house?

Sorry for your trouble and a dang glad no one was around when it happened!
 
Open systems are the only way to go.

One of the big reasons we bought the Central Boiler OWB is that it is an open system. Also has UL approval. Our CB unit boiled over a few times, and like, nothing dramatic happens after the boil-over. Some water steams out the vent and dribbles down the sides, and that's it. The phase change from water to steam takes all the extra heat away and the temp drops down about 20 degrees. All you have to do after a CB open system boil-over is to add a little water and find out what happened. When our system was new, the damper door was not closing all the way. Got a new damper mount and damper from CB under warantee (they called back the same day I called them about it). They also gave me a 3 year supply of corrosion inhibitor for free (to compensate for the boiled over losses). No boil-overs since the new damper was installed.

Sounds weird about all that adjusting on the Royall boiler for weather and such. With the CB we just add more wood if it is colder. That's it. I set the temperature on the boiler to 165 F (lowest that they run at) and keep the house t-stat at 70 degrees all the time. No draft fan on our CB. We have a hydronic radiant floor heating system and a hot water heater on the boiler loop. Both stay hot with no adjustments needed.

Sorry to hear about your plight, and the lack of reasonable response from the installer and company. Weird about the boil-over voiding the warantee. That is like a car engine blowing up and the dealer saying that an engine failure voids the warantee. No such clause in the CB 25 year warantee. Will keep your post here for future reference.
 
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A very little bit of water in a closed system adds up to impressive force. My neighbor back when installed an old kitchen range with water back in the basement. Probably wasn't much more than a teaspoon or so of water in the pipes but when he capped them off it was enough. Shrapnel scars throughou the basement but no penetration to the first floor.

Harry K
 
boiler bombs

You can ask why doesn't your boiler have a soft plug in it? It would be the same as the metal they use in a fire sprinkler system, a mix of lead and bismuth that melts at 255F. It's about $16.79 a pound at a specialty metals store. It melts at 255F every time. I have about 20 ingots of it, Cerro Metals makes it. It's an eutectic alloy. I have a hard time believing your boiler doesn't have a soft plug in it. I have never installed a boiler without one.

There should be a spot (female pipe fitting) to place a pipe reducer in the top of your boiler. Pour the reducer full of the metal, you can melt it on the kitchen stove. Let it cool and then screw it into the top of the boiler. Then when the temp hits 255F it melts and you'll be able to hear the steam whistling out of the top of the boiler and not the pex blowing the line out in the house. It'll work even if the pressure relief valve fails or you don't get to 30 lbs. of pressure. If water in the top of the boiler gets to 255F, it melts, the steam is released. It doesn't wait for the pressure to build, it just goes to a liquid state at 255F.

With the right mix of lead and bismuth you can lower the temp even more or raise it even higher, it's just a matter of what temperature you want it to melt and relieve the pressure at. A soft plug doesn't fail like a pressure relief valve could and in your case, did.
 
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Having a manual draft door that cant shut down automatically and a closed system would have led me away from that whole deal in a heartbeat, a disaster waiting to happen, cant believe they can sell such crap. Sorry for no encouragement here but gesh!!! In addition, that you have to be a weather scientist to operate that system is total BS. with any well designed and quality built OWB you put wood in and it takes care of itself, period. You need to get rid of that manual set draft or make it an open system or better yet make them take it back to avoid a lawsuit IMO. Am so glad that nobody was hurt and thanks for warning anyone who may be operating or getting ready to buy one of those.
 
constant draft adjustment

I don't understand the constant draft adjustment. I simply load mine, and let the auto draft do its thing. On my free heat machine, the manual draft is simply set for burning wet or dry wood. All it does is allow the door blower to grab more air. I really think you are making way too much work for yourself. As for the boiler pressure you had built up, mine clearly and boldly states do not pressurize! I guess our systems are different animals, and it makes me glad I did months of research before I dropped the 10 grand for an entire, 2 building heating system.
 
wood,closed lopp=BOOOOMMM!!!

even the best relief vavles on the market will lime or coroad up and hang....seen it to many times on gas & oil boilers....and whats up with the manual draft?

take off the relief and put mechcainal damper in with an aqua stat and run it as an open system

i'm sure they won't warranty it or replace it......so this would be your best bet...
 
No expert here-Maybe a previous post covered and I didn't see it. I saw the one about the lead thing. They make burst discs that are designed to fail at set pressures. Pressure relief valves are usually pretty reliable, but if they stick or get crudded up they may not work. I had a plumber tell me one time to exercise those valves on occasion(on a water heater). A burst disc in addition to the pressure relief valve would be a good thing to have. Luckily no one got hurt. All hindsight I know but you can always make it better/safer going forward. Cheap insurance that protects people, equipment, and saves you money in these rare instances.
 
Having a manual draft door that cant shut down automatically and a closed system would have led me away from that whole deal in a heartbeat, a disaster waiting to happen, cant believe they can sell such crap. .


Butch,
That is exactly what I tought also when I read this. Talk about a ticking time bomb. You better get that draft setting right the first time because your life literally depends on it with this POS.
 
Sounds like a poorly designed system or possibly a poorly understood system. With all that screwing around with damper adjustments,I'm gonna lean toward the second scenario.
 
If you installed it, someone sold you the wrong relief valve for your application. Some relief valves are both temperature and pressure valves. I would expect warning after warning on the installation instructions in regards to safety valves. The soft plug( that geofore explained) for catastrophic failure should be mandatory. Is the tubing reusable after the failure?
 
Sounds like a poorly designed system or possibly a poorly understood system. With all that screwing around with damper adjustments,I'm gonna lean toward the second scenario.


not only that, but if the damper was messed with that much, how much was the aqua stat messed with and to what extent. Mine clearly states, right on the aquastat, DO NOT ADJUST! I can't imagine the manufacturer covering anything on this, with all the admitted messing with the aqua stat. There are certain adjustments that you just leave alone, or hire a pro to do. With all the constant fooling around with this owb, this guy needs to pay for oil. Some people weren't meant to burn wood, I think this guy is one of them. :monkey:
 
Ya know guys, I go back and re-read this post, the wording used and all and notice first time poster and I start to smell a rat, maybe I am a conspiracy type or cynic because of all the anti OWB crap on the net but I looked at Royals site and there is no manual damper and the thing is UL listed as we might figure it would be in order that it could be sold here, no way for it to have parts and pieces that are not supposed to be together and UL listed, that is why we have UL listing,, aint it? They are tough with listing boilers as theyt well should be. The bursting of the pex is one thing and totaly beliveable but the reflief valve not being correct for the device installed on, no way,,, or lawsuit time.

Anyway apologies offered badger bob if I am FOS here with post number 2. The house beside mine suffered a boiler explosion due to jury rigged safetys about 20 years ago and the result was scary. I was home when it happened
 
Ya know guys, I go back and re-read this post, the wording used and all and notice first time poster and I start to smell a rat, maybe I am a conspiracy type or cynic because of all the anti OWB crap on the net but I looked at Royals site and there is no manual damper and the thing is UL listed as we might figure it would be in order that it could be sold here, no way for it to have parts and pieces that are not supposed to be together and UL listed, that is why we have UL listing,, aint it? They are tough with listing boilers as theyt well should be. The bursting of the pex is one thing and totaly beliveable but the reflief valve not being correct for the device installed on, no way,,, or lawsuit time.

Anyway apologies offered badger bob if I am FOS here with post number 2. The house beside mine suffered a boiler explosion due to jury rigged safetys about 20 years ago and the result was scary. I was home when it happened

you read my mind, I was thinking the same thing. I think badger bob is on a mission to outlaw OWB's
 
Ya know guys, I go back and re-read this post, the wording used and all and notice first time poster and I start to smell a rat, maybe I am a conspiracy type or cynic because of all the anti OWB crap on the net but I looked at Royals site and there is no manual damper and the thing is UL listed as we might figure it would be in order that it could be sold here, no way for it to have parts and pieces that are not supposed to be together and UL listed, that is why we have UL listing,, aint it? They are tough with listing boilers as theyt well should be. The bursting of the pex is one thing and totaly beliveable but the reflief valve not being correct for the device installed on, no way,,, or lawsuit time.

Anyway apologies offered badger bob if I am FOS here with post number 2. The house beside mine suffered a boiler explosion due to jury rigged safetys about 20 years ago and the result was scary. I was home when it happened

I was also wondering if this were some kind of internet urban legend or something. The first line in parenthesis made me suspicious. But then, I am cynical by nature and never believe anything until proven...
 
It was 10:00 P.M., February 25, 2007, snowing and 30°F when I fired the boiler for the night (the last forecast I heard was for a low of 20°);

fired the boiler for the night? This is total bs. Anyone who knows anything about an OWB knows that you fire it for the season, not the night. Seems between the "global warming" crowd last week, and this, the site is being invaded by tree hugging hippies:D
 
I have a cozeburn 250 that is pretty much a central boiler lookalike.
one time i was cleaning the ash pan and pushed it back in but never locked it so air was able to keep going in and the result was a temp of 225 and water boiling out the VENT tube .
I heard my grunfos pump starting to squeal and that is what let me know there was a problem.
I quickly turned on my fill valve that is taken from the hot water tank to get the water level up and closed my ash pan .
the next day i inspected my boiler and hoses and all was well.
a lesson learned but in my case the vent saved me.
I would think anyone running a boiler that was presurized would understand that they will blow up if there are no safty valves installed.
you just have to know what you are doing and have common sence.
the guy i bought my boiler from installed it into my greenhouse knowing that it would not be in use for half of the winter and did not put in valves to let me drain the exchanger completely.
so you guessed it it froze and cracked .
so when i installed my system to the house and redid the greenhouse i put in valves on each line so i can drain all of it or just one part like my floor heat completely.
the xtra cash on valves pay for themselvs over time or when there is a problem or leak anywhere in the system.
 
To the skeptics

Am I an OWB Commie? My wife thinks I'm an OWB nut! Instead of taking her out, I spent the good days this winter cutting all my wood for next season -- the log pile has spilled over into her parking spot.

Ooops! I trusted the advice of the licensed HVAC guy who installed my interior boiler. He said the Royall 6200 was a good deal and their website reenforced that belief. No, the instruction manual has nothing to say about the proper aquastat setting; there are no warnings; not even suggestions. Am I lying about the draft adjustment? It's a plate covering the draft motor intake, held in place by a wingnut. And the manual says nothing about that either.

It's UL listed. Okay, if I ran type M copper from the boiler to the house, there wouldn't be a problem because copper can take 30 psi and a whole lot more, but both Royall and the installer (and everyone else, for that matter) recommended pex-a for the transfer medium. That, my friends, is the weak link requiring a relief valve with a lower rating, which I might add, Conbraco sells (13-211, 3/4", 5 psi).

And what about UL listing? What does that mean? It means the unit passed every test THE MANUFACTURER asked UL to test if for. Let that soak in for a minute.

Am I a complete idiot (or whatever I was called)? Well, Monday morning quarterbacks, I trusted the licensed HVAC guy who does fine work and I trusted the company that produced a nice web page and slick brochures. I had my reasons for choosing a closed system but I'll admit I didn't know enough about boilers. I have a Burnham boiler in my basement and I didn't need to test for a boiler license to fire it up -- my OWB should be the same but I've discovered that just ain't so.

And to the gentle person who took exception to my wording, "fired for the night," in these parts it means to put enough wood in the firebox to last until morning.

That's it for now, gentle folks as well those with rough edges. I've contacted a state boiler inspector, an HVAC expert witness and one of those high-priced lawyers. I don't know what will happen next but all these professionals know my highest priority is for the folks at Royall to notify every purchaser of the danger. For the sake of the ignorant, that ain't anti OWB --it's called justice.
 
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