Over Fertilization?

[mtate]

About 3 weeks ago an arborist planted a Little Leaf Linden about 2 caliper. It's a pretty small tree. I told him that I had bought tree fertilizer stakes (from Home Depot, 15,7,6) for my other trees and asked if I should use some on the newly planted tree. He said to use about 3 or 4 stakes. I used only 2, because the ground is very compacted and there are alot of roots from a very old tree that used to be about a foot away. Had alot of trouble trying to pounding those stakes into the ground about 2ft from the trunk, just outside the root ball area. Anyway, the tree was looking pretty good until I fertilized. Now the leaves seem to be drooping but not discolored. There look to be some small buds that are now brown and dried up. If I touch them, they just fall off. I have watered once a week, but we have also had some rainy humid conditions. Can overfertilization be the cause? Can it be corrected?
Thank you.

 

[rumination]

Marie,

It is usually not necessary, or even advisable, to fertilize a transplanted tree. However, I do not think that overfertilization is your problem. It is hard to know without pictures, but I would guess that improper planting, over/under watering, or poor nursery stock is/are the root of your problem (pun intended ). Compacted soil could exacerbate any of these problems, as well. Do you know what your soil type is?

I just reread your post, and if anything, it is possible that you may be underwatering, in which case excess fertilizer might cause extra dessication of the roots. I would definitely suggest mulching the little guy as soon as possible out past the root ball. Just take care not to pile mulch up against the trunk.

Hope that is of some help. Now I'll bow out and let those with more experience give some better advice.

 

[Nickrosis]

I think you're right on. Unless you pounded the stakes into the tree, it's unlikely it had anything to do with the trees current condition. I would agree that underwatering is a likely culprit because:
a) The fertilizer is not released very quickly since the stakes release it as they wear away from rain, etc.
b) It is unlikely you are overwatering and cause a root rot fungus to take effect since that typically requires very frequent waterings over an extended period of time.
c) Even the worst of plant stocks makes it past the 30 day warranty period.

I'd up the watering and focus on saturating the tree and part of its surrounding twice a week, delivering over a half inch of water each time (you can measure with a coffee can). If you just use a hose, figure at least a two minutes with a steady flow...not blasting the soil away.

If you did mulch the tree, you might be watering so lightly that only the mulch soaks up the water and the tree's roots stay dry. It's an important time for the tree!

Edit: I was hoping it was planted properly if an arborist did the job!

 

[xander9727]

Could you please include a picture of the tree. Quite often trees are planted to deep. Did you remove the burlap or wire from the root ball? I doubt these are the reasons for the current decline in the tree but corrective measures now could prevent future problems. Transplanted trees undergo stress and take some time to recover. A picture would help a lot.

 

[mtate]

I don't know the condition of the soil, but the arborist amended it with peat moss. It is mulched. I used a hose to water and definately gave it more than 2 minutes worth.
When the tree was first planted, I noticed that it was leaning, so I asked the arborist to come back. He straighted out the tree, just sort of stomped on it to straighten it out. It looks a little low to me, it's not that I can't see the flair, it's just that it may be about an inch below the rest of the lawn. The property is slightly sloped and the trunk has a curve to it at the bottom, so it's hard to judge without removing the mulch and getting out a measuring stick. If this is the case, will the tree prosper even if it's not on level? That is, if it overcomes its current problems.
By the way, this was a Consulting Arborist.
Thanks for your responses.

 

[rumination]

From your last post I am extremely skeptical as to the work of your consulting arborist. Amending soil with peat moss and stomping on trees to straighten them out are not standard practices! It sounds like it may have been planted a little low as well, but I'd have to reserve judgement on that without any pictures. I would definitely at least double your watering if peat moss is involved. The peat moss will make it harder for the soil to absorb the water. And if this poor little guy doesn't make it find a new arborist!

Here's a web site that might explain some things about tree planting. There's a wealth of other tree info there as well.

http://www.treesaregood.com/treecare/tree_planting.asp


Good luck!

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The soil is so compacted a spike can't be pounded in, and the soil in the planting hole was ammended. There's a good chance the problem is OVER-watering.
The planting hole can act like a bowl that holds water.
Dig down and poke your finger or a stick into the ball of soil that came with the tree. Is it wet or dry? Ideally you want it to just dry out between waterings.
If it is constantly saturated oxygen levels drop, and roots need oxygen.
This is all too late anyway. If the leaves have fallen off and the buds are dried up, it's bad enough that you should have it replaced. You paid for a healthy tree and that's not what you have.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

MM Nails It!

Originally posted by Mike Maas
The soil is so compacted a spike can't be pounded in

YOur consulting arborist should give you your money back and learn to plant a tree. If s/he was an ASCA member, you could report your dissatisfaction to ASCA. Soil needs to be broken up 2-3x the width of the pot,every time. I use a pick and then a Mantis tiller. Flare at or above grade.

Adding what the soil lacks (usually organic matter) is always a good idea IF it's mixed in well and wide. "Thou shalt not amend" is dubious dogma. Soil from the rootball should be shook off and mixed in.
If roots are circling, straighten them and aim them into the amended bed.

See www.isa-arbor.com/planting/

 

[DadF]

I'll throw my 2cents just for good measure- I have a hard time believing that a "consulting" arborist would do any of the mentioned practices ie amending the soil with peatmoss and then stomping(compacting) the back fill to straighten the tree out. Both of those should really draw attention to his professionalism. Amending backfill has been a practice that has been going out of favor for years.
I would almost bet my next paycheck that the tree was not planted at the right level(base of the root flare at ground level) and that it was more than likely grown that way at the nursery. We never plant a tree anymore without removing the dirt from the top of the root ball to expose the root flare. At times we have had to remove in excess of 8" of soil. On a smaller root ball(probably 22-24" for your 2" tree) that can easily remove more than a third of the "dug" root ball. The problem is that since the tree was planted too deep not as many roots are dug as there would have been if the tree was planted correctly to start with. What you actually have may be a root system that will sustain a 1" dia tree rather than a 2" tree.
Root flares are easily located by digging the soil away from the trunk gently until you see major roots. If you can't locate the root flare within finger depth start screaming and hollering the installer. I just went through this with one of local landscapers and I think he understands the bigger picture now.
I am not computer literate enough to try to post links on here but there is a wealth of info that can be had with a simple google search.

 

[rumination]

Don't listen to me Marie! Looks like I may have been wrong about the watering. These other guys know what they're talking about.

I was wondering when someone would chime in and straighten me out. Thanks.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by DadF
Amending backfill has been a practice that has been going out of favor for years.
DadF I know you're on the mend so I'll take it easy on you here, but the anti-amendment dogma is wrong wrong wrong. "going out of favor" usually means academics have been repeating the same research results to each other long enough for codification to set in. If a wide enough area is prepared, mixing in what the soil lacks is the right thing to do. The 2nd biggest problem is not preparing a bed but just digging a hole.
At times we have had to remove in excess of 8" of soil.

I agree this is Problem #1. Today I had to dig 13" to find the flare of an Okame cherry, all the time getting abuse from the idiot landscraper. After he saw the ISA brochures on Buying and Planting he simmered down a little. $.20 goes a long way these days.

 

[rumination]

I can understand amending soil with ripe compost if done in a large enough area. Peat moss on the other hand, doesn't seem like such a hot idea to me, what with its total lack of nutrients and the fact that it is so hard to get wet once it dries out. What do you think, Guy? Am I wrong again?

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by rumination
Peat moss on the other hand, doesn't seem like such a hot idea to me

Me neither. Peat was the amendment universally recommended back in the old days, just like "No amendments" is the near-universal recommendation now.

Both recommendations were based on scant research overapplied. I'm with you on using compost; hard to see where introducing active microorganisms can do anything but good if blended well.

Hey btw rumi, do you know how a visiting tree guy can have fun (and a little profit?)with the trees around Honolulu July 27-31?

 

[rumination]

empty your PM box, Guy. It's full.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The problem with soil amendments in the planting hole is that the tree roots won't want to leave, they will just start circling around in the hole, which we know is a big problem later on when the tree needs support.
Guy suggests that mixing the amendments in outside the hole and rototilling a large area, which makes sense. Will the same thing happen in 3 or 4 years when the roots grow to the outside of the area amended? And would it be a big problem if the roots did circle around out 10 or 15 feet from the tree?
Could you increase the size of the amended area in years to come without damaging roots?
I can't say for sure, but I like current recommendations of tilling existing soil as large an area as practical and anding amendments (compost/woodchips) to the surface.
Peat moss is popular because it has an acid pH, holds moisture, and is pretty much sterile.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

Originally posted by Mike Maas
Will the same thing happen in 3 or 4 years when the roots grow to the outside of the area amended?
Only if the native soil is rock-hard to start with, or compacted. Then some fluffing and inoculation should create a welcome environment for penetration.
OOooo getting offtopic.
Could you increase the size of the amended area in years to come without damaging roots?
Isn't that why you bought an airspade? I use a pick most of the time.
I can't say for sure, but I like current recommendations of tilling existing soil as large an area as practical and anding amendments (compost/woodchips) to the surface.

I do too if the native soil is ok.

 

[Nickrosis]

It's still all speculation, but I could easily be wrong with my angle, too. If it was that hard to pound in spikes.... Could you get a picture of that posted?

 

[DadF]

Guy- thanks for taking it easy on me but I'm ready for a punch or two(just not in the back PLEASE!!). You are right I was referring to the little hole that only fit a root ball and then adding peat moss to the back fill along with fertilizer. Research is proving that a wider hole with loosened or tilled soil around that is much better. Adding FINISHED compost to the top area that is being worked up also helps. We had some of the Bartlett Research people here last year(Sorry I don't have their names in my head right now-must have been in some of that stuff that got bleached off the sidewalk last week ). and they were showing how loosening up the soil out past the drip line really enhanced tree growth. Optimal growth occurred when using an air spade and mixing in compost at the same time. Even just breaking up the top several inches had a great effect. They had also used radial trenches and rototillers in different tests.
But this is still assuming the tree was planted right to start with. Other wise it's a long uphill battle.
Thanks for keeping me on my toes Guy.

 

[Guy Meilleur]

DadF we've had our local Bartlett guys demo airspade work and I've demo'd radial trenching with mine too. I like to mix in expanded slate too; well worth the $$. Bruce Fraedrich has shown ppt on same, maybe it was him.

Re toes, cool, if you keep me on mine too.

 

[ROLLACOSTA]

you should spend more on the planting pit/hole than on the tree thats my motto..ive seen some apauling planting overhere just recently