Overreving by limbing? 361 WOT RPM?

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wagonwheeler

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Tech at the Stihl dealer commented that cutting small stuff w/ a mediuim sized saw would over-rev it. Like cutting limbs, lumber, etc... This came out of a conversation about me wanting a tach so I can tune the saw and not over-rev it at WOT.

I thought as long as you just burp through the small stuff while picking off limbs everything is fine. My 361 is plenty light to chop up trees w/o using my CS3000.

Any problem here? Some of you guys don't go smaller than a 440 or 372 when limbing right?

Anyone have the WOT RPM for a 361? It's not in the operators manual and I haven't bought the service book yet.

TIA

Chaser
 
If the carb is setup so that the saw runs no higher than the max permitted rpm's at WOT out of the wood, what possible difference would it make what size wood you cut with it?
-Ralph
 
His best phrase of the day...Now i'm off the find a pipe wrench to tighten the spokes on my bologna sandwich

bwalker said:
Full throttle limbing isn't going to to hurt the saw unless its drastically lean.
 
Just dont let the motor free rev alot as long as you have a load on it you will be ok as long as the carb is set right It should have a slight burble on top free rev if it is smooth high pitch you are to lean if you dont feel like it is right take it to a shop and have them set it for you If you have any questions you can call me I will try to help you
 
The full-half throtle cutting question is up here from time to time. Conclusion what I made for myself is:
If cutting demands real power from engine (may be the load more than ca >20% from engine max output) I use always WOT. If there are small limbs what are not giving the real load for saw, I do them usually not at max throtle, keeping rpms by the "ear" around 10000 rpm.
 
The tech is confused : it has nothing to do with WOT as in MAX RPM, but with the amount/mixture of gas. It is a problem with the "two point" (Low - which is actually 3 or 4 points, and High) carbs adjusts - it's possible to have a lean condition between the two correctly set points and can result in insufficient lubrication when the saw is just gunned to cut small branches.

This was a big problem in older 026, 036 and 44s (up to mid 90's). The carbs were updated to have a "partial power" jets. Some saws with later carbs aren't as problem prone as the high jet only adjusts part of the upper fuel flow, and the mid range is provided by other fixed jets. I can email the tech note if anyone is really interested. PM me.

The answer is just run them richer if limbing... which of course limits your upper power band, but you're just limbing... and you won't need your muffler mods for this type of work :)


I've mainly seen this on 44's - excessively scored pistons in an otherwise decent engine. The give away is that the 32 inch bar has a completely worn out tip...
 
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The tec. note is probably interesting.
I not figured out the thing yet, if the saw is purbling (strongly four-stroking) at partial throtle, is the lubrication sufficient:confused:
Rather yes:dizzy:
 
Would it not be better to use a smaller saw for limbing and clearing trees and branches from 2 to 8" in diameter if you were going to do mostly this type of cutting?

An 026 or MS200 comes to mind.
 
Yeah, I like a nice long bar for limbing. Something I've also gotten into the habit of, whether good or bad, is to rev the saw up for each individual limb, which really means just letting off between limbs, even if they're close together. It's not like the chain slows down anywhere near coming to a stop between limbs or anything. It makes cutting each limb more dileberate, and also keeps the saw decelerating while it isn't under load. I also like to run an 8-tooth sprocket to get the chainspeed I want without the saw being revved as high. It seems like the 361 would be more rev-friendly since it has a shorter stroke, along with a 500rpm higher rev limit over an 044. I like the feel of limbing with an 044 over the 361's I've run, but that's just my opinion.
 
tek9tim said:
....Something I've also gotten into the habit of, whether good or bad, is to rev the saw up for each individual limb, which really means just letting off between limbs, even if they're close together. It's not like the chain slows down anywhere near coming to a stop between limbs or anything. It makes cutting each limb more dileberate, and also keeps the saw decelerating while it isn't under load. ......
So do I, but it is mostly about beeing deliberate on each cut, not for fear of overreving.
 
Question.

I have what may be a silly question but I am confused reading this post. Do yall use the same saw for felling and limbing or are you packing two saws for the job?:confused:
I have never limbed with anything but a felling saw, but I guess if I was only limbing maybe I would choose a different saw.
 
Dr. Dirt said:
I have what may be a silly question but I am confused reading this post. Do yall use the same saw for felling and limbing or are you packing two saws for the job?:confused:

Felling and limbing w/ the same saw was what prompted my initial question. I'd rather do both w/ the 361 but didn't want to do damage whether by overrevving, or oil starving at partial throttle, etc..

I could use my cs3000 for limbing but it's got a short bar, top handle, far less power, turns less rpm.

Chaser
 

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