OWB myths .. list them

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My wife would love to put in an OWB. When we were doing the research 3 years ago, the price was the sticking point. It would take us forever to pay it off in reducing the heat bill. Possibly not ever. The Daka that I did buy does a great job and at $700 it paid off in less than two winters.

Extra wood would not be an issue. The ability to have the wood stack next to the OWB would be nice. And to burn pallets and not have to split the wood quite so small would be bonuses.

Matt
 
I've got $4300 into my OWB and another $1500 into a splitter,I get all my wood FREE.This is my 3rd year heating with it and after this season my stove and splitter will have paid for itself.

2800 sqft at 75 degrees (in a poorly insulated house) for @ 6 months per year.

The only thing I have to b!tch about is Global Hydronics warranty...:censored:
 
no myth

Mine will burn green wood. No need to dry anything! It depends on your OWB design. The advantage is the fire box dosen't need filling quite as often. I realize there is more btu's with dry wood but it cannot hold as long in a burn box as wet. (Hardyheat.com) thanks The Hoosier!!
 
Hello,
Look here. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=1891

Having built my own back in '02 and having seen about 25 brochures before building it, and doing as much research as my tiny mind could do, there are a few myths for sure. I'll list my favorites, and qualify them by saying that they pertain only to the "basic" setup which would be the outside of the firebox is the inside of the waterjacket. No refractory materials etc...

Efficiency: It's a joke. Period. Real world, about 25% if you're lucky. These beauty's use a LOT of wood for the heat load. You can tell me how great yours is, that's fine, I guarantee it is a pig.

Green wood: Sure, if you don't mind wasting all that energy boiling the water out. I look at it this way: Seasoned wood is approx. 15- 20% water, so that 20lb. log I just threw in contains 4lb, or 1/2 a Gallon of water.Thats just one 20lb. log. 100lbs of seasoned wood, 20lbs, or approx 2-1/2 gallons of water. Green wood of most species contains a lot more water than that. I can and have burnt green wood, "burning" is a loose term.

Very low smoke: There are a lot of variables here, but by and large, by thier very design, they smoke a LOT compared to a decent woodstove. They don't have much choice. You are constantly cooling the flames. Unburnt hydrocarbons galore.

You need this very expensive water line insulator: My 75 foot run looses on average, 2-4 degrees stove to house. I used 3/4 PEX each in closed cell pipe insulation ( the pipes should never touch) Central Boiler actually sells pipe insulation where the pipes are in intimate contact for the length of the run. Heat transfer working against you the whole run. I ecclosed it in a 2" EPS foam "box" 42" deep in the ground. Cheap, just the way I like it.

25 year warranty You best read the fine print.

Free heat Does anyone believe this?

Ours is superior to thiers Um, as far as efficiency, probably not. "Ripple top firebox,' super-mega baffle" "water cooled door" or or whatever other gimmick employed, they are just not that different. Longevity is a whole 'nother matter.

96 hour burn time Where? Florida?

By the way, I LOVE mine.

There's more, but I gotta go,






.
 
Mine smokes like a...well like a chimney.

Green Wood...It's all I got for now(I did have some left from last year)

PEX lines...Never thought about transfer,Good Point

Warranty...Whats that? ( :censored: Global Hydronics)

Free?Chainsaw and splitter use/maintenance is much easier on my wallet than propane.

The Best? No clue,but I wont recommend GH.

Burn Time,I have had a 72 hour burn,but it was REALLY warm for them days.


I will get another one when this one is relocated to a salesmans arse...
 

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