P&C interchange guide

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Husky 61,66,266,268,272 all interchange. some have different carbs. some of these will interchange with jonsered 630/670. Not only engine parts but all parts except top handles. The jred top handles won't bolt husky gas tanks unless you drill new holes. Same with husky top handle on jred gas tanks.
 
I have a j-red 2149 that the P&C has been toasted in about the fourth tank of gas. On a hunch I went to my local j-red dealer to see if I could swap a 2153 P&C. He did not know but he called another tech who said that it will fit with no mods. I would like to try but dealers are not to keen on P&C returns and when he knows what is going on. So has anyone tried this? Or does anyone have a 2153,346,346ne P&C that is toasted that I can get to try or a good one for a decent price?
 
Well I waited......

038 to, 038S, with "maybe " mill the case to fit, per Stihl manual.

038 and 038S to 038M, you WILL have to mod the cyl to fit the case, do a search here. Well worth the time to get 72cc. You get a 038M from a sheep.

Forgot, the muff/exhaust needs to be opened to 038M specs.....not much work.....
 
Info courtesy of Brad for a 460 P&C on a 440

The saw is done except for a few odds and ends. This was a marathon build and I did not get detailed pics of the conversion details. They're not difficult though, just time consuming. Here's a summary.

1. Slot the cylinder base mounting holes. Use a 440 cylinder gasket as a timplate.
2. Clearance the right transfer port to clear the CC.
3. Clearance the left transfer to clear the flywheel fin tips.
4. Clearance the mounting flange on both sides. Not much more than removing the cast in letters was necessary.
5. Trim the plastic defplctor hanging down on the bottom of the engine shroud.
6. Add about 1/4" spacers behind the bottom mounting bolts of the muffler.
 
spreadsheet

I'm putting together a list on excel.

anyone can PM me with more, or request for my list.... add to it and send it back.

this is a great resource.

poor man's Hollinger!
 
I have a j-red 2149 that the P&C has been toasted in about the fourth tank of gas. On a hunch I went to my local j-red dealer to see if I could swap a 2153 P&C. He did not know but he called another tech who said that it will fit with no mods. I would like to try but dealers are not to keen on P&C returns and when he knows what is going on. So has anyone tried this? Or does anyone have a 2153,346,346ne P&C that is toasted that I can get to try or a good one for a decent price?

It will fit, I would find out why the P&C toasted on the fourth tank of fuel first! Check all of your fuel lines including the impulse line; you don't want to toast the new P&C on the first tank. While you have it apart, get rid of the limiters so you can re-adjust the carb for the new P&C. How bad is the old P&C, I may be interested in the cylinder if it will clean up; drop me a PM.
 
Nitro
It toasted from strait gas I think. Yes the limiter caps will be gone.


One thing is with the caps on I can only turn the H out 1/2 turn. I don't mess with to much Husky/J-Red stuff is that normal? Seems WAY to lean even from the factory.


Does anyone have the Bore/Stroke spec for this 2149?
 
Pretty good thread so far,
I was thinking along the same lines this morning and was trying to figure out what Cranks would fit what cases and then what P/C would fit. My idea was to stuff a huge crank/P/C in a small case like a 026 with a 36 top and crank and really hum. Big block in a pinto type thing with a ford 9 for a rear.
A
 
Solo 603

Not quite that simple, but close.
The Dolmar/Makita's cylinder is shorter than the Solo, (the Solo uses a longer stroke) so if you fit a Dolmar P&C to the Solo the psiton will crunch the head rather badly, unless you add a spacer (as Baileys do with their kits)

Anybody know if there is a Dolmar (or any other) equivalent piston for a Solo 603?
 
Efco/oleomac saws
147/947 and 152/952 cylinders bolt up.(also port very nicely and behave just like a fusky 346
156/956 and 162/962/165 cylinders bolt up but base gasket needs to change when taking a 165 and putting on a 156 cylinder due longer stroke. A member stihl crazy has done this with excellent results.
971/981 bolt up...im not real sure on the MT class of saws...never touched one yet.

Also remember that efco made saws for John deere and cub cadet commercial that were the same saw just a different color. So finding parts arent that hard to find. Id like to learn more on the MT saws.

Great thread thanks for posting.
 
+1 for sticky!!
Brand specific would be nice!

ms 170 bb?
 
A Homelite SXL P/C can be swapped (as an assembly) onto an XL-12 crankcase. Same thing in reverse. Both have the same stroke. The XL-12 has a smaller bore than the SXL. Brings it up from 54cc to 58cc.

A Homelite C9/91 P/C can be swapped (as an assembly) onto a Homelite C7/71/72. The C9/91 has the same stroke as a C7/71/72, but a larger bore. Brings the saw up from 80.5cc to 85.5cc.
 
Dolmar 120si P&C will fit on a 116si crankcase. Increases 60cc to 68cc.

Dolmar 112 and 114 use the same P&C, early 112 has points while 114 is electronic.

Dolmar 117 and 119 use the same P&C, same as above, 117 has points and 119 is electronic.

Not P&C related but good to know. Dolmar brake band from 114 and others will fit in 116si/120si clutch cover. Clutch covers won't swap as 116si clutch sticks out too far.
 
Off the top of my head...
bore x stroke
044 50mm x 36mm
046 52mm x 36mm
045-056 50mm, 52mm, 54mm, 56mm(rarely) x all 38mm stroke
064 52mm x 40mm
066 54mm x 40mm

as i recall
 
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