Painting cuts

[SLlandscape]

I just read a post by Nailsbeats and noticed that he suggested painting a cut on a tree. I did a quick search of the forum to see if I could find anything regarding painting over saw cuts with watever product is available currenlty, and what people think of it. however, I could not find anything. For the record I'm not trying to start an argument, just making a statement and asking a question. Every person I have talked to and everything I have read says not to use any kind of paint, tar, or pitch on an open cut from a chain saw. Instead let it heal over on its own. I myself do not paint over any saw cuts. What is your opinion? This question is for everyone.

P.S. Nails, I'm not bashing on your suggestion of painting over the cut. If that's what you like to do, then do it. I only used that as an example, I'm just looking for opinions.

:spam: ...I hate spam... the one in the can... not the computer one.

 

[tomtrees58]

we did that 30 years ago man paint all over you Theo's days are over tom trees

 

[Nailsbeats]

The point is to retard the sprouting around the edge of the cut, seal for disease, plus it looks good. I am sure some scientist with a magnafying glass and tree stethoscope is gonna say not to do it, whatever. My experience is that it heals over fine with the paint, and the paint looks like a good seal until it fades.

Don't worry about bashing me SL, I don't mind . There are many opinions on here, that's what makes it interesting.

 

[Jlarnard]

We ran a test on this is a huge apple orchard we pruned. Observed it for 5 seasons in a row. We found an alarming result.

No difference.

 

[pdqdl]

I do, but not very often. Use this stuff:

Sucker stopper is SUPPOSED to good on trees prone to suckering. I haven't used it enough to know if it works. The few trees (sycamore) I tried it on were suckering because they were highly stressed but the customer would not tolerate the suckers on the lower trunk. Naturally, they died when they couldn't grow more suckers, as the top was not very vigorous.


Monterey sucker stopper:

http://www.cooperseeds.com/Label/sucker_stopper_rtu.pdf

 

[ATH]

The point is to retard the sprouting around the edge of the cut, seal for disease, plus it looks good. I am sure some scientist with a magnafying glass and tree stethoscope is gonna say not to do it, whatever. My experience is that it heals over fine with the paint, and the paint looks like a good seal until it fades.

I'm not the scientist, but I have read a lot of their research ...

Based on my understanding: The paints do nothing either negative or possitive for tree health in most circumstances. One place they are important is if you are in an oak wilt area and you need to prune oak (especially red oak) during the flight season for the beetle that carries oak wilt. The paint will mask the volatiles long enough to make it harder for the beetles to find it. My solution (I really tihng the better soltion) is to schedule the red oak prunings for mid-September through April (outside of the flight season). I have not had a client have a problem with waiting when I explain the reason.

The tars, etc... do harm the tree because they trap so much moisture under them and provide great habitat for insects and decay fungi. Tree pruning paint is not going to cause these problems.

If you are painting (with the right kind of paint) for looks, only a fool would try to argue against that. Since the paint doesn't harm the tree it all comes down to personal preference when you are talking about what it looks like, no?

 

[Nailsbeats]

I'm not the scientist, but I have read a lot of their research ...

Based on my understanding: The paints do nothing either negative or possitive for tree health in most circumstances. One place they are important is if you are in an oak wilt area and you need to prune oak (especially red oak) during the flight season for the beetle that carries oak wilt. The paint will mask the volatiles long enough to make it harder for the beetles to find it. My solution (I really tihng the better soltion) is to schedule the red oak prunings for mid-September through April (outside of the flight season). I have not had a client have a problem with waiting when I explain the reason.

The tars, etc... do harm the tree because they trap so much moisture under them and provide great habitat for insects and decay fungi. Tree pruning paint is not going to cause these problems.

If you are painting (with the right kind of paint) for looks, only a fool would try to argue against that. Since the paint doesn't harm the tree it all comes down to personal preference when you are talking about what it looks like, no?

Emergency Oaks in the bad season need to be painted, can't schedule that. Obviously, you don't try to hammer them during Oak Wilt Days. I like the looks of the paint, the big white cut doesn't stick out as much, kinda camo's it back in, oh I just had a patent idea, cammo tree paint. Some on here claim to never make a "big" prunning cut, but I have made huge ones many times, especially on Silvers.

 

[SLlandscape]

The tars, etc... do harm the tree because they trap so much moisture under them and provide great habitat for insects and decay fungi. Tree pruning paint is not going to cause these problems.

That's what I have always been told and have read. As I said, I myself don't use paint or tar or whatever. But I would definitley agree that if you HAVE TO TRIM on a any kind of oak during the flight season it should painted with something. Last year the Texas panhandle saw its' first case of oak wilt in Amarillo. I have yet to see it here in Dalhart which is about 85 miles north of Amarillo.

Fuel bill for last month... :jawdrop:and parts bill for tractor