Partner Chainsaw Thread

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A "T" port is a short slot in the top center of the exhaust port to bleed off compression for starting. Some Partner's from that era used them, not positive if the P85 came with it. Depending on the tune and oil type used the "T" can become blocked by carbon and rendered ineffective.
 
Got a Partner cylinder NOS in the box but no idea as to
what it fits. Part number is 05340107 it is the removable
head type. Anyone have any old partner ipl's, i'm thinking
it might fit a Partner R12 but not sure.
Any help is greatly appreciated.


Lee
 
albert said:
A "T" port is a short slot in the top center of the exhaust port to bleed off compression for starting. Some Partner's from that era used them, not positive if the P85 came with it. Depending on the tune and oil type used the "T" can become blocked by carbon and rendered ineffective.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explenation.
 
Gents looking for a recoil cover well actually just need the spring it sounds like for a 5000+. Found a 5000+ on CL for 75 bucks recoil won't retract. Guessing spring is shot, haven't seen it yet. I was shocked the guy took his add down said he'd deliver it 50 miles to my brothers place.
 
bowtechmadman said:
Gents looking for a recoil cover well actually just need the spring it sounds like for a 5000+. Found a 5000+ on CL for 75 bucks recoil won't retract. Guessing spring is shot, haven't seen it yet. I was shocked the guy took his add down said he'd deliver it 50 miles to my brothers place.
Click to expand...

Seen the add your speaking of. If it would have been a little closer to me that add would've been gone a couple of days ago. Glad someone on here got it though!:rock:
 
Thanks for posting that Rottman's link DSS, that's a great resource. Does anyone know where to find an index of Partner serial numbers? The only thing I don't like about Partner is that they are hard to identify when the stickers are gone. They are getting harder to buy now as well, I was after that Michigan 5000+ also.

Tom
 
bowtechmadman said:
Gents looking for a recoil cover well actually just need the spring it sounds like for a 5000+. Found a 5000+ on CL for 75 bucks recoil won't retract. Guessing spring is shot, haven't seen it yet. I was shocked the guy took his add down said he'd deliver it 50 miles to my brothers place.
Click to expand...

I believe I have a few of them, I got some extra P5000 parts and I'm sure there is a recoil or two in the boxes. I'll take a peak and If I can find one I'll send it.
 
Hey guys, I am really confused with the 55cc/ 65cc Partners. I have acquired a number lately, from early points ignition units to later 650's. Mostly they have their model numbers worn off and you do not know what you have until you get inside. I got what I thought was another 650 recently but underneath the plastic 650 top was an earlier saw with a closed port 48mm Mahle jug and two ring piston. It also has an unusual two piece ignition (electronic) which might be thyristor and the heavy clutch. I have a similar 44mm saw which is OK, quite torquey but no racer. Well the 48mm closed port saw is an absolute monster. It has far more power than my really schmick late model 650 and just amazes me with its cutting power. It doesn't seem to have aggressive timing and the porting does not look anything special. With new rings compression is only 155 lbs and it starts easy. I am guessing it is an R421T but that is speculative.
Why did Parner bother with open port jugs of the later saws when the early ones were so strong? Or am I reading too much into this?
Anyway it has got me thinking about a 7000 Plus. I passed one up earlier this year and now I am wondering if I should have. So much to learn.

Al.
 
Speaking of P5000's i thought i would bring something different to the job today..
had this saw awhile but only made test cuts with it and it seemed fine..
so today i brought it and a screwdriver along to see what it could do..
Let's say i have a new favorite 50cc saw !! :)
i should say the bar is in perfect shape and i did the chain as best i could and tuned in the cut..
she may not be the most pretty girl at the prom but she puts out !!
the hood has a good crack and missing a part so i am looking for one,IF anybody has one to put to a good cause ??
she earned her keep on this red oak but i didnt push just let er go at her own pace and it worked very well.
if the 7000 wasnt so heavy i would bring that out more often..
and some of the others i will soon i think after the fun i had today :)
 
attachment.php
 
gink595 said:
I believe I have a few of them, I got some extra P5000 parts and I'm sure there is a recoil or two in the boxes. I'll take a peak and If I can find one I'll send it.
Click to expand...

hey Gink,,got a good uncracked hood for to fit a 5000 ?
 
Modifiedmark said:
Ron, I got several black Poulan Pro 325 hoods here. Cant remember if they will interchange or not though. I can try to check this weekend.

If they will work and you dont mind a plain black one your in!
Click to expand...

Tnx Mark !i can paint yeller stripes on it and 5000 in yeller.
going to be taking the saw with me this mornin again,i realy do like it :)
 
Rookie Partner owner needs help!

Hi all,

I have recently become the owner of two saws:

Pioneer partner 5000+
Partner Professional F55A

I have some experience using chainsaws and very little maintaining them. I'm sure that I will have lots of questions over the next few months, but, I could use some immediate help with a couple of specific issues. I could also benefit from some direction to general resources regarding saws.

I have found exploded isometrics of both saws which has been a good starting point. I have little to no experience with motors although I am a professional woodworker so I have plenty of experience maintaining and repairing large floor tools.

Both saws run but the 5000 has been used regularly more recently. I would love to resolve a couple of issues with the 5000 and perhaps rebuild the F55a over the winter.

Two questions about the 5000:

The start/stop switch has not been working and I discovered that the wire was snapped at the motor end (I don't know what the magnetic part is called). I also think that the wire has been modified by the looks of it. I can post some pics if someone can help me with this. I would like to get the switch functioning. I am not sure how the wire should connect at the switch

Second, when I took apart the housing covering the pull start, I found that this compartment was quite packed with oily saw dust. In order to clean it out I took apart most of the electrical components. What I could not see before I removed the magnetic part(506 01 00-01 on the schematics) was the distance between the flywheel(? 503 21 11-04) and the magnetic part. Based on my understanding of electric motors they should be slightly apart.

Can anyone send me off in a good direction?

I have attached the drawings I am working from. Any help with proper names for parts would be appreciated.

thanks!
 

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