Partner Chainsaw Thread

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Yes, looks I may be missing the 504 35 72-01? I did see a "clip" on the bracket between the carb and the head. I was wondering if it would clip there. Maybe I will just get new line and put it all back together, it did run fine with just the main fule line, it just leaked when you held it at an angle (because the hole in the gas tank did not have a line in it)
 
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You should be able to order what you need from Rottmans.

The one line is the fuel line, and the other is the vent line. On some of my Partners, the end of the vent line is just tucked into a corner, out of the way. The plastic thing is a check valve.
 
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You should be able to order what you need from Rottmans.

The one line is the fuel line, and the other is the vent line. On some of my Partners, the end of the vent line is just tucked into a corner, out of the way. The plastic thing is a check valve.

i was messing with two identical saws over the w/e and one had the gas-leak hole, and the other had the more traditional bolt screwed in the vent hole mod. both are parts saws, so no biggie - just interesting to see what ppl do.
 
I found a nice big partner this week that appears to be a R440T or an early P100. The markings on the saw are all gone; the previous owner stated it was a P100, but judging by the IPL it should be a R440T .

Now the problem that is driving me crazy :

I had a irregular spark to begin with, but after readjusting the coil gap, the spark was all gone. I decided to install a coil from a Jonsered 2041 that was a spot on and produces good spark. When the saw starts to pop, it immediately shuts the decomp and nearly rips your hand off. It is impossible to pull the saw over once it pops, caused by a combination of enormous compression and a small rope pulley. I am just wondering if the timing maybe different (the coil mount howevever is identical) or if the original coil had some kind of built in ignition retarding.
Anyone have a clue what might be going on here......:msp_w00t:

pics will follow..
 
Pioneer P42

Looking at maybe picking up a pioneer P42 with a 28" bar for a 100 bucks. the guy i might buy it from is a former faller and this use to be one of his first falling saws. He says it has a "donkey ####" or a "stack" to suck more air. i dont have any pictures but does it sound like this is a good saw for a hundred bucks?
 
Old, heavy, slow. I think it is the same saw as the Pioneer P42. 68cc. Loads of torque. Fun for a few minutes, but not what I would want to carry around to cut firewood. If it has been owned by a logger it is likely pretty well used up. For $100, I guess you couldn't go too wrong.
Post some pics when you get it!!
 
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I have a P42. It's a great saw, but pretty much what murph mentioned. It's on the heavy side for a 65cc saw. Lots of torque. I run a 20" bar on mine.
These are really considered a Pioneer. There is a ton of info on these in the Pioneer thread.
 
sorry bout posting in the wrong forum was under the asumption that it was a pioneer partner that they were the same forum but thanks for the thoughts about it... and its wasnt used for logging my uncle who owns the saw used to work for a tree company and he used it to fall trees for them
 
Partner 335

This could also be in the Poulan tread as it is really a rebadged Poulan XXV. I love both so I was very pleased when I turned up this old 335. It was in splendid condition but the guy said it was not pumping oil. The oiler works by crankcase pressure and I figured a bad valve but I was wrong, as when I fired her up it started leaking bar oil where the crank case halves meet. A full tear down was necessary - and easy.

P7130848.jpg


Bits everywhere but nicely designed and simple. Only problem you might have is releasing the big end roller bearings but if you leave the piston at bottom dead centre you will be OK. If they escape there are 12 of them and you will need some grease and a deft hand to replace them.

Here is a pic of the the little gallery that transfers crank case pressure to the oil reservoir (with a pointy probe through it).

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Here is the little valve on the outside - unfortunately it does not show the hole in the valve but it shows the other side of the transer gallery.

P7130852.jpg


I used Permetex black to adhere the crank case halves and a simple refit had her back together, now oiling like it should. It is handsome little saw built in 1987 and is a keeper. It will be used for garden work and pruning. Can't have too many Partners and now this one is out of the way I can start putting Mark's crank in my 4900. Thanks Mark!

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P7130857.jpg


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Al.
 
I had a irregular spark to begin with, but after readjusting the coil gap, the spark was all gone. I decided to install a coil from a Jonsered 2041 that was a spot on and produces good spark. When the saw starts to pop, it immediately shuts the decomp and nearly rips your hand off. It is impossible to pull the saw over once it pops, caused by a combination of enormous compression and a small rope pulley. I am just wondering if the timing maybe different (the coil mount howevever is identical) or if the original coil had some kind of built in ignition retarding.
Anyone have a clue what might be going on here....

It definitely sounds like a case of an advanced timing issue. I cannot offer any more than this as I am not familiar with the J'red machines and their ignition systems.

Good luck with it


Chris.
 
My faithful Partner

My faithful P500 has been a great limbing saw and has been cutting well for me for a couple years now. Recently I decided to give it a major cleaning and check over...clean out both tanks, remove accumulation on cooling fins and flywheel, check inside carb, replace filters and lines, replace spark plug, clean starter spring etc. That all went well and it's cutting strong once again.
I looked into ordering a handle brace that the P5000's have and found it's easy to order thru Poulan Pro dealers, even up here in Canader and the price is minimal. Although this saw had "NO" vibrations previously, the handles are more firmly connected and improves the way the saw feels now. Definitely worth having. The brace is nicely shaped and contoured and easy to install. A couple pics for you viewing pleasure:


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I've read many times where AS members always recommend 3/8 chain over 325 so I decided to convert this over and give it a try. The 3/8x7 rim is a little larger and changes chain speed gearing but the saw can definitely handle it. One pet peeve I always had with this saw while using 325 chain was the oil hole on bar was always half plugged...and I clean it daily...every day it's half plugged. Since the conversion there has been a marked change. When cleaning the bar the oil hole is now open as it should be. I guess 3/8 chain must obviously be better at chip clearing as that was the only variable. This saw will be staying with 3/8 chain from now on.
If anyone is considering alterations to these saws, you wont be disappointed.
 
727, you did a fine job with that P500, it should run for another 20 years and it looks might nice with the 5000 brace. I use .325" chain on my 500/5000's and have never considered 3/8, but after your recommendation maybe I should. One of my all time favourite saws.

Al.
 
This could also be in the Poulan tread as it is really a rebadged Poulan XXV.


P7130857.jpg




Al.


That fits in the Partner thread for sure. As far as I know it is a little different then most Poulans even though it was clearly made by Poulan.

Seems the 335 is a 2.0 ci saw like a Poulan 2000 or at least per the IPLs they share the same P/C. The Partner 385 would be the same as a 2300 cva and 2.3 ci.

As far as I know off hand Poulan never had a model like the 335, bascially a 2000 with a 2300cva antivibe setup. If they did I can't think of it off hand.

The lower underbelly brace is something I have not seen on a Poulan either and must be a just for Partner brand as well.

Anyhow you look at it Al, you got a nice little saw there.
 

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